Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, March 18, 1990 TAG: 9003152084
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: E-3 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: Cox News Service
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
Karl Lagerfeld, the designer at Chanel in Paris, presented 30 identical ivory boucle wool jackets mixed with such diverse bottoms as stretch leggings, bike shorts and long chiffon skirts. They were accessorized with Nike footwear and black-toed Chanel flats.
Everyone in the fashion kingdom ruled that transparent clothes, including bare-breasted dresses from Yves Saint Laurent, would be big looks for spring.
Beware of shrugging off these trends as "weird" or "unwearable," because you will probably end up in some version of the above.
Remember several seasons ago when gold buttons and chains became popular? That was Chanel's direct influence. Or how about pattern-mixing from Emanuel Ungaro? The wide-legged pant from Sonia Rykiel and Claude Montana? The color chartreuse from everyone? All these trends found their way from fashion runways into closets of fashionable Americans.
"Clothes shown on the runways in Europe and on Seventh Avenue inspire fashion at all price points," said Sheila Kamensky, fashion merchandising director for Rich's department stores, who attends the twice-a-year shows in the fashion capitals. "The difference in price points is due to workmanship and the quality of fabrics.
"Also, some designs are seen in all collections. For example, the sarong skirt was in everyone's line, as were city shorts and the color white.
"It's my job to identify what a large segment of the population will want as a fashion look."
Inspiration from the ready-to-wear shows can take several guises. It might be a silhouette, a pattern, an accessory, a fabric. Sometimes, to make a point, a designer will exaggerate a look for the runway. Then it will be interpreted by manufacturers and stores for their clients in ways they think will sell.
Already, spring clothes in the stores reflect European and American designer inspirations. Some of the hottest include the following:
\ The sarong skirt. Watch for this wrapped skirt in a variety of fabrics, lengths and colors. You can pair it with see-through tops, little tanks and blouson jackets. Sarong skirts can be dressy or casual, worn to a black-tie party or a business appointment.
\ The sarong pant, which has a softly draped front. It was shown as evening wear. Manufacturers are turning out linen-inspired sarong pants, and retailers pair them with camp shirts for a more casual feel.
\ Shorts. They came in many guises - funky bloomers, skintight bike pants, satin evening pants. Many manufacturers offer these above-the-knee pants as an alternative to short skirts and show them with oversize blazers and T-shirts.
\ Short or long. In Europe, skirts were either short or long; there was nothing in between. However, for spring in the United States, you can wear skirts at any length. The choice is yours. Watch for short leather skirts to be a big look on both sides of the Atlantic.
\ Sheer. European and American designers loved transparent fabrics and stitched them into pants, blouses, skirts and evening gowns. Usually, the models wore nothing underneath.
American retailers believe in a sheer look but think women will wear sheer skirts - usually shown in double thicknesses - with sweaters, blazers or little T-shirts. Also, younger customers will wear their sheers with leggings.
\ Unconstructed looks. Some designers, such as Giorgio Armani, have eliminated shoulder pads, while others made them smaller. Many spring jackets have a relaxed, oversize look.
\ Animal prints. Classic zebra, tiger and leopard patterns leapt from the runway to appear on everything from vests and shirts to skirts and cocktail looks. Remember, a little of this look goes a long way.
\ Neutral tones. In addition to white, new colors on the runways were the entire family of beiges, the spice tones, also orange and gold. These hues are in stores now, often in matching jacket-and-pant combinations.
\ Prints. Stars, stripes, polka dots and florals were all over the European collections, and they are appearing in American stores.
\ Trims and embellishments. In Paris, Milan and New York, clothes were heavily encrusted with beads, embroidery, jewels and military-like gold braid. Watch these details to decorate all types of jackets and evening clothes.
\ Fringe. Designers everywhere edged dresses and perked up skirts with this flirty trim. Most fringe for Americans will show up on suede jackets or evening gowns.
Memo: Spring Fashion