Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, April 1, 1990 TAG: 9004010243
SECTION: BUSINESS PAGE: BUS-5 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: JEFF MILLER
DATELINE: PETERBOROUGH, AUSTRALIA LENGTH: Long
Situated 175 miles southwest of Melbourne, these spectacular limestone pillars of brown and ocher rise in stark relief out of the constantly changing aquamarine Southern Ocean. They seem to speak of the ages, of time immemorial, as they stand guard over Australia's rugged Southern Coast. Isolated from the mainland eons ago by the erosion of softer cliffs, some of the Apostles stand 80 feet high and only 19 feet in diameter. (Only eight of the 12 can be seen from the available overlooks.)
The Twelve Apostles, along with other natural sculptures like London Bridge, Loch Ard Gorge, The Arch, The Blow Hole, and the little-known Gibson's Steps, make up Port Campbell National Park - a must for those seeking Australia's most spectacular and unusual sights.
The park extends along nearly 20 miles of coastline between Peterborough and Princetown on the west coast of the Otway Peninsula. Part of the Great Ocean Road forms the northern boundary of the park, from which numerous scenic overlooks can be reached.
As you stand at the overlooks and gaze down at the white-capped ocean, feel the teeth-rattling wind, and sense the Hitchcock-like pull of the cliff's edge, you find it hard to assimilate what you're seeing - the incredible natural force and beauty is overwhelming.
But there is a special way to mentally grasp what you're seeing: Gibson's Steps. Not explained in the park literature, and rarely put on road maps, Gibson's Steps is the best way to bring the grandeur of the park down to human perspective - bring the scenery down to portions the mind can handle.
Located at the eastern end of the park, the steps are ignored by most people hurrying west toward the Twelve Apostles. But if you spot the little turnoff sign, and choose to take it, it will be the highlight of your trip.
The first sight of Gibson's Steps can be rather daunting. Carved from sheer rock cliffs 80-100 feet high, with no safety bars to cling to, the spray-washed steps cut back and forth across the cliff face until they reach the beach below. (Because they can be a little treacherous at times - and a little frightening - this side trip is only recommended for the young, hardy and/or adventurous.)
Once you get down the steps, however, you'll never regret the journey. There before you stretches a deserted beach of epic proportions - worthy of Charlton Heston movie. You feel as if you're the only person on Earth - there at the very start or the very end of the planet's life. It's an incredibly primeval experience.
You can walk for hours, exploring the rock cliffs and leaving Robinson Crusoe footprints in the virgin sand, or just lie on the beach and feel the strength of the furious sea. Because of the tremendous undertow, swimming is not recommended. It is easy to spend an entire day on the beach, but remember that there's still an entire park to see.
Driving on after Gibson's Steps, you should stop at every scenic overlook - each presents you with a new spectacular sight. Some of the highlights are:
Loch Ard Gorge - This pretty beach tucked away in a protected cove was named after the sailing ship "Lock Ard," which foundered off the coast in June 1878. Fifty people perished that night, with only two survivors - Tom Pearce, a cabin boy, and Eva Carmichael, a passenger - who were washed through the narrow entrance of the gorge to the safety of the beach. The next day Tom struggled to the top of the high rock cliffs and went for help.
Today there are wooden steps down to the beach, which also contains two deep caves. As you walk about beachcombing, you come across bits of shiny glass that look very much like the colored bottle glass used in the 1800s - maybe the last remnants of the numerous ships claimed by the sea. It's a fun place to spend an hour.
For those more adventurous, the Loch Ard wreck has been located and is now a historic site for scuba divers. Check with the Park Information Center, which will give you the location of the wreck and a site map.
The Blow Hole - Moving west from Loch Ard Gorge toward Port Campbell, visitors find The Blow Hole. Nearly 50 feet deep and 115 feet long, the hole spouts great plumes of salt spray as the heavy seas surge up through a 1,155-foot natural tunnel.
London Bridge - Just west of Port Campbell is a giant archway that rises 50 feet above the sea. Visitors can walk across its narrow neck and onto the major formation that stands off the coast. Here photographers can get some of the best camera angles of the coastline.
If you go
Getting there can be half the fun. Port Campbell National Park is approximately 175 miles southwest of Melbourne. Taking the Princess Highway to Geelong and then a small spur road to the town of Torquay, you begin the Great Ocean Road, one of the world's most scenic ocean highways. It runs for 178 miles around the Otway coast to Warrnambool, and part of this road becomes the northern boundary of the park.
I'd suggest taking two days (one full day bookended by two half days): Day One: Leave Melbourne in the late morning and get close to the park, staying in one of the seaside resorts lining the cost, such as Lorne or Apollo Bay; Day Two: take a full day, enjoying a picnic at Gibson's steps and stopping at every overlook until you pass out from visual overload, then stay at either Port Campbell or Warrnambool; Day Three: leave early for the inland drive that will get you back to Melbourne by the early afternoon.
Whatever time of year you go, make sure you bring a heavy sweater or jacket because it is usually cold, damp and windy at the overlooks. Be prepared to be dog-tired by the end of the day - the constant wind and continual opening/closing of the car door at the overlooks can be surprisingly exhausting.
Suggested stopovers:
Lorne, population 893, is an extremely popular seaside resort with Melbournites because it's only 88 miles south of the city, has numerous hotels, motels and restaurants, and offers a wide array of activities, including fishing, golf, tennis, swimming and surfing. Hotel/motel prices range from $40-$90. Reservations should be made months in advance.
Apollo Bay, population 921, is a little farther down the coast (115 miles from Melbourne). It, too, is a quaint fishing village, but a little more rustic and a little less popular than Lorne - yet not deservedly so. Apollo Bay has a huge beach and tourist activities such as bush walks, boating, fishing, golf, tennis, sailing, surfing, swimming and waterskiing. Hotel/motel prices range from $30-$60. Reservations recommended.
Port Campbell, population 300, is the only safe harbor between Apollo Bay and Warrnambool. In the 1840s Capt. Alexander Campbell used the bay for whaling. By the 1870s a permanent settlement had begun, supplied completely by ships. Today Port Campbell boasts tall Norfolk pines, a nice protected, patrolled beach for swimming and surfing, one hotel, three motels and the national park camping area. Hotel/motel prices average $30-$55. Reservations recommended.
Warrnambool, population 23,000, sits on Lady Bay, 220 miles (via the Great Coast Road) southwest of Melbourne, and is the largest city in southwest Victoria. It has excellent safe beaches, numerous parks and a wide array of hotels and motels. The Warrnambool Road Race, a world cycling classic, is held in October and the city's Grand Annual Steeplechase, the longest horse race in Australia, is held during the May Racing Carnival. Hotel/motels range from $40-$90. Reservations recommended.
by CNB