Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, May 27, 1990 TAG: 9005280164
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: D-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: John K. Arbogast Agriculture Extension agent for Roanoke
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
A: This sounds like winter injury. Cherry trees are very susceptible to bark splitting, especially on the sunny side of the trunk. The bark heats up there on sunny winter days and then it chills or freezes at night. This fluctuation causes splitting. Normally, bark splitting such as yours will not cause weakening or death of the tree. Since the split or crack is in the direction of growth (up and down) on the trunk, the tree will try to heal itself and grow around the spot. There is no need for pruning paints or any kind of covering over the area. The only recommendation would be to use a knife or chisel to make a way for water to drain out of the bottom of the split, if this is even a problem. You can provide some shading for the trunk of this tree in the winter so that extreme bark temperature fluctuations do not occur.
Q: Why don't my iris bloom anymore? They are healthy-looking, have nice sun and soil and I have never done anything to them except fertilize. Also, I have flower boxes on the front of my house but they only get a little sun in the afternoon. I would love to put something in them like impatiens. Is there one that will grow pretty without much sun? I. F., Salem
A: Since your iris receive full sun and are in decent soil, which I'm assuming means that they receive adequate moisture and yet have good drainage, the two probable causes for lack of blooms would be the need for digging and dividing, or loss of the iris foliage before the end of summer causing insufficient food to be manufactured and stored by the plants. Dig each iris clump in late summer or early fall but do not damage the leaves. Use a knife to divide the clump and cut out the old, hard inner part and dispose of it. Replant the younger divisions right away. Each division must have at least one growing point, or fan of leaves, a few inches of healthy rhizome (that thick horizontal part that grows near the ground), and a number of well-developed roots.
Practically all impatiens varieties do well in bright outdoor locations that receive little if any direct sun. Selecting the color you want is often the guide for variety selection. Permanent plantings, such as perennials, would not normally do well in our area in typical flower boxes because the boxes can freeze in the winter. Annuals die with frosts anyway and are replanted in the spring.
Q: I hope you can tell me why our peony bush does not bloom. Last year it had two or three flowers. This year none of the buds opened. The buds feel like they are filled with air rather than flower. I see wasps and sometimes ants on the buds so I sprayed with Sevin. There is a hemlock tree close by. Mrs. J.P., Calloway
A: The following reasons, either alone or in combination, can cause peonies to not bloom: Crowded plantings - very old, established peony clumps eventually become crowded and stop producing blooms until they are divided; Too much shade - full day sun is preferred (is your hemlock casting more shade as it grows?) Roots buried at the wrong depth (consider mulch depth too). The buds or eyes should be covered by 1 1/2 inches of soil, no more or less; Lack of fertilization - if the soil is poor already, buds will form but not open; take a soil test; and immature transplants - peony divisions that don't contain at least three buds (probably not the case for you since your peony sounds well established). Oh, ants can be commonly found on peony buds because of the moisture there; they usually don't cause noticeable harm.
Got a question about your garden, lawn, plants, or insects? Write to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P. O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Virginia 24010.
GARDENERS CHECKLIST (Jobs for late May)
The squash vine borer is one of the most serious pests affecting squash and pumpkin vines or plants. Injury is caused by the caterpillars boring into the tender, lower stems of the vines or bushes, causing the plants to suddenly wilt a few days or weeks later. This is now the time to begin spraying to prevent loss of this year's squash and pumpkin plants, since the adults deposit eggs on the young stems and leaves. Apply malathion, methoxychlor, thidan, or thiograd 3 to bases of squash or pumpkin plants four times at seven-day intervals beginning as soon as the vines begin to run or the bush begins to grow. Follow all label directions and precautions.
Now is the time to check the underside of new growth of azaleas, rhododendrons, and mountain laurels, especially those plants that are in partly sunny areas, for the presence of lacebugs. These tiny insects have black bodies and lacy wings. They injure foliage by sucking out plant juices, causing a bleached-out appearance to occur by early to midsummer. If these pests are found, spray the leaves, especially the underneath side, with Orthene or diazinon. Repeat in a few weeks if necessary.
by CNB