Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: WEDNESDAY, June 6, 1990 TAG: 9006060232
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: E-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: DOLORES KOSTELNI
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
Bingo's is a tiny, bare-bones shop that has been in business for 10 years. Its core business is mostly commercial baking for supermarkets, convenience stores and other national baking companies.
A freestanding, independent, small bakery, Bingo's will satisfy the most sugar-starved sweet tooth in a flash. But overall, I was not too impressed with the quality of the pastries or the breads - the cakes were the only bright spot.
Plastic bags piled on the racks hold brown-and-serve rolls (1 1/2 lbs./$1.49) and loaves of homestyle white (79 cents each or 2/$1.50), pumpernickel ($1.49) and thick-crusted French-style (79 cents) breads. I divided these breads, as well as everything else I bought, among several tasters and there was unanimous agreement in every area.
The yeast breads were bland and lacking structure. The sliced bread fell apart in sandwiches and when toasted. The French-style bread did not cut evenly or neatly and was flat-tasting. A baking powder apple-cinnamon bread ($1.39) looked attractive, sliced neatly and was soothing later in the day with a cup of coffee.
Buttermilk biscuits (24 for $3.29) and Texas-sized blueberry muffins (4/$1.95) were decent in flavor although both were dry and crumbly. Cookies ($1.50 per dozen) were sweeter than sweet. Had it not been for the chips in the chocolate chip cookies, there were no other distinctive differences with the sugar cookies.
A reasonable selection of saucer-sized pastries was arranged in the only glass-enclosed case. Danish (3 for $1.75 or 69 cents each) glistened with jewel-like jelly and cheese centers. They were big and made from a tender dough that had been wound into spirals. Of the three sampled, - raspberry, strawberry and cheese - only the cheese had any distinct flavor. The single, predominant taste sensation in all of them was just sweetness. Croissants (3/$1) appeared to be made from the same dough as the Danish; however, these were heavy and tough and would not even have made good boomerangs.
I happened to arrive at Bingo's one afternoon as they were taking the swirled cinnamon rolls (3/$1.75) from the oven. A light cinnamon fragrance filled the air. The warm cinnamon-raisin buns, made from a lusciously tender pastry, gave an overall taste of sweetness with only a suggestion of cinnamon.
Fruit pies ($3.99) looked homemade and very much like those found at church or school cake sales. We sampled the apple: although the filling was chock full of apple slices, it lacked fruity zip. But it was sweet. The crust was simply a dough minus flakiness and taste. Brownies (3/$1.49) were just the way they are supposed to be, deeply dark and eminently chocolatey.
There were three cakes to select from: Pound cake ($6.95), cheesecake ($8.50) and fresh coconut cake ($10.95). No question about it, the fresh coconut cake was what we wanted. And what a cake it was. Three layers bursting with moist coconut flavor and all dressed up with white cloud frosting and tons of fresh coconut. This could have been one of the best coconut cakes any of us had tasted.
It is easy enough to establish personal standards for breads and pastries by either making some according to an excellent recipe or by tasting and examining a cross section of several Sara Lee products. These commercial, albeit frozen, pastries are achievements of quality without the addition of excessive sugars. They are composed of light, flavorful doughs and where necessary, contain preserved fruits that give the palate a true tang.
Bakeries are among my cherished spots. In fact, when I am traveling abroad, I try to visit the leading bakeries in each city to take a look at the breads and the delicate pastries, to take notes and photos and perhaps, to relish a taste or two.
It would be nice to go to a small local bakery and be able to pick up quality desserts for that end-of-the meal clincher. Bingo's, though, is too sweet an affair: The honest flavor of real butter, fresh fruit and pungent premium spices are overwhelmed. Out's evaluations of restaurant accessibility to the handicapped are conducted by the Center for Independence for the Disabled, a non-profit organization.
by CNB