Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, January 31, 1993 TAG: 9302010274
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: C1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: John Arbogast
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
WHITE PINES USUALLY DON'T NEED FERTILIZING
Q: I have three questions: (1) I have in a row three white pines, about 16 feet tall, that recently appear to be very "leggy"; the compact appearance is gone, the branches are long and there are open spaces. Could it be that the 2-pounds-per-caliper-inch of 10-6-4 fertilizer that I apply in holes bored at the drip line each spring is too much? Are the pines overfertilized? Can I prune branches that seem too long? (2) My carefully tended and well-fertilized fescue lawn is riddled with mole tunnels. Is there some massive, total approach, short of dynamite, to get rid of these pests? I haven't been successful with a mole trap or with those poison pills. What about the electric "buzzers"? (3) I think that many of us living at Smith Mountain Lake would appreciate a column directed to the kind of landscaping and use of fertilizers and insecticides appropriate to the preservation of the water quality of our lake. B.H.C., MonetaA: I probably could write a whole column on each one of your questions, but here are brief answers:
(1) Sounds like your pines are showing their natural growth pattern. You probably are overfertilizing, which likely has increased new growth above normal and has caused greater open spaces. In decent soils, white pines should not need supplemental fertilizer applications unless extremely long new growth is desired each year. In the spring you can prune branches that seem too long, but limit it to removing the previous year's growth. For needled evergreens, young wood that holds some needles must remain on the ends of the branches after any pruning if continued new growth is to be expected from those parts.
(2) Mole traps remain the recommended method for eradicating moles. However, I do understand that this may be a very slow control method and that moles can cause considerable damage before they are finally killed. As I've said before, the mole control method we use at our house is our two cats; however, I think our neutered male is the hunter rather than our neutered female.
Castor plants are repulsive to moles. Try dropping castor beans in the active mole holes in your yard or plant a border of castor plants around the yard. This is especially good if your yard adjoins a wooded area where the moles seem to be coming from. Castor plants are attractive ornamental plants. However, the seeds and leaves of the plant are poisonous, so take care about using them in areas where children may play.
In areas where it would be unsafe to have castor plants, Garden Way Associates Inc. has suggested this: Mix two parts castor oil and one part liquid detergent in a blender; add an equal amount of water and stir; put two tablespoons of the solution in a sprinkling can of water and pour it over the area where the moles are at work.
Virginia Tech does not have any research on electronic "buzzers" for moles. I would not waste time or money on them.
(3) We all need to think about landscaping and other horticultural activities and the impact they can have on water quality. Because I have limited space here, I can suggest three criteria: (A) prevent erosion by covering all ground surfaces with mulch, garden cover crops, properly maintained turf, ground covers, trees, shrubs or physical landscape components; (B) make judicious use of fertilizers, organic or inorganic; if there is a question about the need for nutrients, take soil tests first; and (C) minimize pesticide use through selection of plants and their locations; for example, Wintercreeper Euonymus would not be a good leafy evergreen to select unless you plan to spray regularly because of its known susceptibility to scale insects; a mostly sunny spot would not be good for azaleas because the lacebug is more likely to occur on azaleas in the sun.
Q: What causes green moss in grass and what can I do to get rid of it? I have been told that it comes from no drainage, but that isn't true here because mine is on a hill in my yard. G.H., Roanoke
A: Several possible conditions promote moss growth in lawns; all may cause the turf to become weak and thin at the same time. So, consider the following list of potential causes that may exist singly or in a combination: poor drainage, either over the surface or in the soil itself (this can occur on slopes if the soil doesn't drain adequately); extremely acidic soil; excessive shade; soil fertility - either excessive or insufficient nutrients; compacted (tight) soil, which in our area is usually an excessively heavy soil (a lot of clay); shallow soil (not much of a layer of decent topsoil to support vigorous grass); and/or extremely close mowing height (mower that scalps the sod). A soil test can identify acidic soil. A slightly compacted soil can be improved through core aerification, although improper soil conditions may require tilling and mixing in organic amendments.
\ Got a question about your plants, garden, lawn, or insects? Write to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke 24010-2491.
\ Gardener's checklist
Jobs for early February:
Gardeners who like to start their own vegetable transplants should sow seeds of broccoli, brussels sprouts and cabbage indoors or in the home greenhouse now in order to have strong seedlings to plant in mid- to late March. These hardy vegetables must grow in the garden before the weather turns hot. Some suggested varieties (not a complete list) are: Packman, and Green Goliath broccoli; Jade Cross Brussels sprouts; Stonehead, Little Rock and Guardian cabbage; and Two Season Chinese cabbage.
\ AUTHOR John Arbogast is the agricultural extension agent for Roanoke.