Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, April 4, 1993 TAG: 9304040263
SECTION: HORIZON PAGE: F-8 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: DORIS KENNEDY
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
CANADA'S SUNSHINE COAST
Although no secret to Vancouverites, British Columbia's pristine Sunshine Coast remains relatively undiscovered by travelers from the United States and residents of the other Canadian provinces. A bit surprising, considering what this area of Western Canada has to offer.Said to have more sunny days each year than that averaged by the Hawaiian Islands, its sheltered harbors, hidden coves, fishing villages, verdant forests and sandy beaches beg to be explored.
The "Sunshine Coast Circle Route" extends north from Vancouver to Lund, from Powell River across the Strait of Georgia to Vancouver Island, continues down the eastern coast of the island to Victoria, and then back across to Vancouver, a distance of 373 land miles, easily traversed in four to seven days.
From Horseshoe Bay, in West Vancouver, a glistening-white ferryboat threads through narrow, tree-lined fjords, past rainbow veiled waterfalls and unspoiled wilderness to the small settlement of Langdale.
A few miles west of Langdale, the unpretentious little town of Gibsons Landing, with a spattering of art galleries and a home-style cafe or two, is the former filming site for the popular Canadian television series, "The Beachcombers." On a sunny day in late June, traffic is light, beaches remain uncrowded and shopkeepers have time to stop and chat.
Just outside of Gibsons Landing, the Roberts Creek Road leads to the tiny settlement of Roberts Creek where, amid the fervent cry of seagulls and the rhythmic slosh of waves stroking the shore, one can sit on the beach or search for seashells and not see another individual for hours at a time.
Between Gibsons Landing and Sechelt, the narrow highway winds through dense, dark forests of cedar, pine and fir enhanced by banks of pale pink wild roses and golden Scotch broom. The woodsy fragrance fills air so fresh and pollution-free, one can almost feel the lungs rejoice.
Near Madeira Park, blue and white cabins dot the hillside overlooking the pleasure craft harbor at Lowe's Resort. Under the watchful eye of a 30-foot totem pole, all is silent except for the raspy caw of crows, the creaking of boat docks and the occasional sound of fisher-folk chatter floating aimlessly over the water.
A 45-minute ferryboat ride across Jervis Inlet carries passengers and vehicles from Earl's Cove to Saltery Bay. As the vessel sails past cloud-shrouded hills and misty side channels, a gutsy little black and white tugboat chugs past pulling a massive log boom, and sheltered coves with fishing boats and small white houses with brightly-colored roofs come into view. For scenery, this area ranks right up there with Alaska's Inside Passage.
The main street in the seaside town of Powell River stretches for miles along the waterfront. Here anglers fish for salmon right off the end of the wharf, scuba divers explore a plethora of marine life, including exceptionally large octopuses and an underwater shipwreck, and history buffs check out the small Historical Museum exhibiting the reconstructed cabin once lived in by a mysterious former resident, Billy Goat Smith. Said to have been both a deserter from the U.S. Navy and a murderer from New York City, he is described as having been a sometimes congenial but often eccentric and suspicious recluse, a regular Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde.
Located between Powell River and Lund, and a favorite of sports enthusiasts, is the Bavarian-style Cedar Lodge Bed & Breakfast Resort. Canoeists and kayakers often spend several nights here before heading out into the wilderness of Okearm Inlet for a week of paddling and camping. Innkeepers Erwin and Renate Schulz, from the former East Germany, will custom design fishing and sightseeing packages, including all meals, for their guests.
The harnlet of Lund is the northernmost point to which one can drive along coastal Highway 101. This stretch of road literally runs into the sea at the end of a wooden plank dock in Lund.
Settled in 1889 by the Thulin brothers, who named it after a city in their native Sweden, Lund is the jumping off point for serious salmon fishing in Desolation Sound. One can walk along the rocky shoreline, take tea in a tiny tea room at the end of the boardwalk or venture to nearby Savary Island via water taxi to stroll the white sand beaches and see one of the tallest Arbutus trees (approximately 70 feet) in the world.
Yet another ferryboat ride, from Powell River across the beautiful Strait of Georgia, continues the Sunshine Coast Circle Route to Comox, on Vancouver Island. Turning south along the eastern shore of the island, the road leads past dairy farms and bed and breakfasts establishments, to tiny seaside settlements with names like Fanny Bay and Bowser where clam diggers try their luck on the mud flats at low tide. At Qualicum Beach, stop at one of the smoked salmon shops, pick up a few other munchies and head for a picnic on the expansive public beach.
After pausing to photograph the goats grazing on the roof of the Old Country Market in Coombs, watch for signs signaling the way to Butterfly World, where some of nature's most exquisitely-adorned winged critters welcome guests into their private world. As visitors walk through the lush, climate-controlled tropical garden in hushed admiration, hundreds of free-flying butterflies flit from shoulder to outstretched hand and amiably pose on exotic flower petals for eager photographers.
At Cowichan Bay, one finds Father Rondeault's little Butter Church, built in 1860 and so named because it was constructed entirely from funds raised by the padre from the sale of butter he produced on his small farm.
The small logging town of Duncan boasts more than 60 stunning totem poles scattered throughout the community. Nearby, is the Native Heritage Center where a large gallery showcases splendid works of art, including wood carvings, leather moccasins, gold and silver jewelry and hand-knitted Cowichan wool sweaters. While not exactly inexpensive, the items are museum quality, all made by Northwest Coastal Natives. Also at the center is a carving shed where one can watch native craftsmen carve totem poles and ceremonial masks.
Just north of Victoria on the Cordova Bay Road, stands the whimsical Fable Cottage where a flower-strewn pathway, "alive" with animated figures leads to an amazing hand-crafted fairytale cottage with simulated thatched roof, rounded doorways and a delightfully-designed interior. Originally built as a private home, it became such a curiosity to passersby that the owners were unable to maintain any semblance of privacy. They decided to sell the property with one stipulation: that it always be kept open to the public for touring. As guests leave, the wistful desire to live in just such a cottage is heard over and over again.
It's difficult to resist the many sightseeing opportunities available in the charming British city of Victoria. The wise visitor will plan to spend at least one full day here to take a horse-drawn carriage ride through the flower-bedecked streets, browse the excellent museums, take afternoon tea at the queen dowager of hotels, The Empress, and perhaps spend the night at Victoria's only seaside hotel, the Oak Bay Beach Hotel, where guests are given the choice of a complimentary breakfast buffet or a cruise aboard the inn's sleek yacht.
One last ferryboat ride from Victoria back to Vancouver completes the Sunshine Coast Circle Route. It may have been only a few days or a week in actual time but the memories gleaned from the unspoiled beauty of this area of British Columbia are sure to brighten many days and months to come.
If you go:
For additional information regarding accommodations, attractions and activities, including saltwater and lake fishing, boat rentals, deap sea charter fishing, canoeing, kayaking, wind-surfing, sailing, coastal and inlet SCUBA diving, beachcombing, hiking and camping, phone: Tourism British Columbia: (800) 663-6000 Cedar Lodge Bed & Breakfast Resort: (604) 483-4414 Lowe's Resort: (604) 883-2456 Oak Bay Beach Hotel: (604) 598-4556
Doris Kennedy is a free-lance travel writer who lives in Aurora, Colo