Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, November 7, 1993 TAG: 9311080227
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: B-1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: John Arbogast
DATELINE: LENGTH: Medium
A: There are two parts to this answer: First, I'll address how to eliminate moss and then, I'll offer advice on how to keep it from growing back.
Eliminate existing moss just before sowing grass seed. Physical means, such as by hoe or rake and a lot of effort, may be the best way if the moss is not too widespread. However, if the moss is everywhere, you might try one of the following chemical controls:
The nonselective plant killer glyphosate, which is sold as Roundup and Kleenup. Note that glyphosate also will kill any actively growing grass that it contacts and thus should be used only on patches of moss.
Spray solutions of ferrous sulfate or ferrous ammonium sulfate, if either of these two is available; be sure to read product cautions to avoid injury to turf.
One of the special "moss control" products made by companies that make lawn-care products; this type of material is to be applied during winter or spring when moss is actively growing. I believe this might cause the grass blades to temporarily change color. After using chemical control, the dead moss must be removed before grass can be established.
Moss grows in a given yard because conditions there are not favorable for vigorous turf grass. So, to keep moss from coming back, correct problems that may apply from the following list of the many factors that either by themselves or in combination can be causes for moss:
Poor drainage, either within the soil or over the surface. Divert sources of excess water if possible; maybe install internal drainage.
Acid soil; liming may be needed but take soil tests first.
Excessive shade.
Wrong turf species for a particular site or use.
Soil fertility - usually insufficient nutrients, but excesses might be a problem in certain cases; again, take soil tests.
Soil compaction - a tight soil. Core aeration will help if the compaction is mainly surface compaction.
Too frequent irrigation.
Excessively heavy soil. I realize that most of us around here have heavy clay soil. Rototil in organic matter if parts of the lawn are to be completely redone.
Shallow layer of topsoil or maybe even only subsoil around a new home; see suggestion for heavy soil.
Close mowing height - this weakens the good grass.
Q: I have written before but have not seen anything in the paper to answer my question. Something is eating the cinder blocks under my house. They start at one place, make a long path like down to the corner of the house, then go around the corner and start on another side, on the outside down below the brick. No one seems to know what it could be. Do you have any idea? M.L.M., Rocky Mount
A: This damage is typical of the Norway rat. I don't know if there is just one rat or several. At this time of year, though, the chewing and digging is likely due to the rat(s) seeking suitable shelter for the colder months.
Here's information about ways to control them while they're still outside:
Poisons: They are not always effective because of a rat's keen senses of smell and taste.
Rat traps: They are an excellent way to eliminate small number of rats. Place traps along walls where rats travel. Get the very cautious Norway rat used to traps by placing baited but unset traps until the bait is freely taken. Then set baited traps.
Prevention: You should eliminate any available food supplies, which would include garbage storage areas and dog food; eliminate cover near your home, because rats prefer not to venture over open spaces - this means keeping grass and weeds mowed, trash picked up and wood piles well away from the house.
Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants, or insects to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered each week. Please don't send stamps, stamped envelopes, samples or pictures.
Gardeners' checklist:
(Jobs to be done in early November)
Fruit trees, except very young trees not old enough to bear fruits, can be pruned in the fall after they are fully dormant but before severe weather.
With shorter days of fall, houseplant growth usually slows down. Most indoor plants should not be watered until the soil feels dry. Water thoroughly until water drains into the saucer. Empty the saucer within an hour.
John Arbogast is the agricultural extension agent for Roanoke.
by CNB