
                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: WEDNESDAY, December 8, 1993                   TAG: 9312070166
SECTION: EXTRA                    PAGE: 1   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: Dolores Kostelni
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Medium

TWO BOOKS MAKE BAKING BREAD EASY AND ENJOYABLE

Two outstanding new books focus on the art of making bread in the home kitchen. Through gorgeous photographs, wonderfully written, instructive texts plus the all-important usable recipes, the authors - all expert and recognized in this field - bring together everything you need to know about creating any kind of bread you desire to make. If I had to choose only one of these books to give to my daughter and new daughter-in-law, I would be hard-pressed to make a decision.

"Bread Alone," by Daniel Leader and Judith Blahnik.

Few culinary endeavors have excited me as much as making Leader's "bold, fresh loaves" from my own hands. By following his traditional formula, I've created crusty, webbed country rounds and chewy, but tender, full bodied yet light, 18-inch baguettes sporting five cuts (seven are traditional) down the center. I've transformed my oven into a stone hearth, and I await the arrival of wild yeast spores in my kitchen.

Leader leaves nothing to chance. He holds your hand during the "Learning Recipes," as you create the Classic Country-Style Hearth Loaf and go on to any of its several variations. Even as you progress to sourdoughs from Germany and San Francisco, or circle the globe for his "baker's favorites" and classic holiday yeast and quick breads, his assistance is only a few pages away.

Complete, clear descriptions of essential techniques and tools for creating, mixing, fermenting, sculpting and baking Old World country-style breads with distinctive texture and flavor make this the perfect book for home bakers, even those who lead busy lives. Each recipe gives a precise breakdown of total preparation, fermentation and baking times as well as accurate descriptions of what you will be making and how it should look. An especially useful chapter explains how to adjust the timing of almost any recipe to suit your special schedule.

"Bread Alone" is as much a cookbook, a devout treatise and bible as it is a narrative. Leader entertains us with fascinating accounts of his travels throughout America and Europe. We meet the unforgettable personalities who played their parts in his life as he sought great bread. (William Morrow Co., $25./hardcover.)

"Baking Bread: Old and New Traditions," by Beth Hensperger."

A practical approach to home baking with an appeal to all levels of expertise. Nearly 200 recipes range from the most basic to the more complicated, including instructions on the joys and benefits of using breadmaking machines plus an array of recipes for best displaying their automatic talents. Easy to follow, clear recipes plus a rich panoply of full-color photographs reveal the delicious, creative possibilities.

Henspberger includes a tremendous variety of sweet and savory rolls, muffins and appetizer specialties as well as European and American favorites. She uses the familiar, accessible flours and grains - oats, wheat, rye, corn, barley and bulgur - as well as the newly available buckwheat, grits, blue corn, wild rice, millet, amaranth, wehani and quinoa. A comprehensive book that includes flavored butters, cheese spreads, mustards and jams, plus menu suggestions, a tutorial on techniques, hints for freezing and lessons on pans.

"Bread," Hensperber's first book published in 1988, contains more than 100 original recipes and is the perfect companion to this new book. Both offer recipes to match every taste and to fit each occasion. (Chronicle Books, $29.95/hardcover; $18.95 /softcover.)

by CNB