Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SATURDAY, December 18, 1993 TAG: 9312170037
SECTION: CURRENT PAGE: NRV-3 EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY
SOURCE:
DATELINE: PULASKI LENGTH: Long
And the restaurant is not a McDonald's, where they met. It's their own Renaissance Restaurant in downtown Pulaski.
Paul was operations manager for the Pargo's restaurants in Roanoke and Christiansburg before striking out on his own. He has opened restaurants for major chains, from finding the site to serving the first meal. One day, "I just decided that the next restaurant I started would be mine."
The Etzels reopened the Renaissance early in July, keeping the name of the former restaurant at the same site. Paul says an informal survey indicated that the Renaissance has "a favorable name and location association. Secondly, it fit in well with the new vitality in downtown Pulaski. And I like it."
That's what's nice about being the boss. You can pick the name. You can also choose the menu.
Paul has drawn on his 15 years' experience in the restaurant industry to develop a diversified menu of American fare. Lunch includes such favorites such as burgers, French dips and club sandwiches, along with chicken supreme, a breast of chicken topped with melted Swiss cheese and bacon strips. Mushroom peppercorn gravy smothers the hot turkey and London broil open-face sandwiches.
The dining room has been cozied up with fresh paint. Several dozen ferns, palms and lilies act as unofficial partitions. It's subdued and unpretentious, with votive candles and fresh flowers on the tables.
The soft beige and peach tones are as suitable for a business lunch of wheeling and dealing as for a family meal out or a special anniversary dinner.
The evening menu offers something for every appetite, and you don't have to order before the rolls arrive to take the edge off your hunger.
These dinner rolls rank at the top of the delicious bread scale. They're fresh from the oven, but Paul confesses, "we don't make the dough here. When we do not make something from scratch in our kitchen, we search everywhere, until I'm convinced we are offering the very best commercial product," he said.
"Doris and I were decidedly `rolled out,' having tried so many before settling on these." Most bakers - and diners - will be fooled by the homemade taste of these rolls.
Personalized pizza skins and nachos represent the hearty appetizers, while spiced peaches offer a lighter alternative. Specialties of the house are the scallops au gratin, chicken raspberry and London broil. Prime rib, the most expensive menu item at $9.95, is served every evening.
Vegetarian and cholesterol-conscious patrons have an assortment of options. There are six pasta and vegetarian entrees and six salad choices. Seafood stir-fry pasta and vegetable primavera are popular, along with the taco salad and a spinach salad that changes with the seasons. It's spinach-fruit salad in summer and fall as long as produce is fresh, and spinach-bacon salad in winter and spring.
For those who simply cannot make up their minds, a surf-and-turf entree couples sirloin steak with fried shrimp, and the chicken-and-beef choice combines sirloin steak with grilled chicken.
The kids' entrees offer just what kids love to eat - pizza, grilled cheese and hamburger. More adventurous kids can try the chicken strips and shrimp. Each meal comes with a beverage and steak fries for $2.25 for those under 12.
Sweet Endings on the menu include caramel apple nut cheesecake, bourbon pecan pie and brownie nut sundae. The first is described as "creamy cheesecake over a layer of apples and topped with a caramel sauce and walnuts. ADDICTIVE."
The 17-table Renaissance has a small bar and is located right on Main Street across from the town's historic Courthouse.
Spouses working together can be a challenge under the best of circumstances. Doris said she likes working with Paul. "We've had so much pillow talk over the years that I have a pretty good idea of what he expects," she said. Despite the long hours a restaurant demands, Doris said they have much more time together now, "and I can take the kids to work without worrying."
With his counter girl from McDonald's days, young sons ages 4, 7 and 10 (the oldest has already biked to the store for birthday candles in time for a dessert presentation), Paul Etzel has lots of help to fulfill his dream of having his own restaurant.
\ On the menu\ \ Name: Renaissance Restaurant.\ \ Location: 55 Main St., Pulaski\ \ Phone nu,mber: (703) 980-0287\ \ Lunch: Entrees: $2.25-$3.95\ \ Dinner: Entrees: $5.75-$9.95\ \ Desserts: $.50-$3.00\ \ Beverages: Mixed drinks, beer and wine;\ \ Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday 11 a.m.-3 p.m.\ \ Clientele: Everyone from business types to families would feel welcome\ \ Standouts: The homemade rolls, attentive service, value.
by CNB