
                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: WEDNESDAY, December 29, 1993                   TAG: 9401040003
SECTION: EXTRA                    PAGE: 3   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: ALMENA HUGHES STAFF WRITER
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Medium

FOOD OF KWANZAA IS FAMILIAR FARE

An estimated 5 million Americans observe Kwanzaa, a period from Dec. 26 to Jan. 1 during which they pay tribute to the rich cultural roots of Americans of African ancestry. Each day, commemorated with discussion and the lighting of a candle, is dedicated to one of seven principles: unity, self-determination, collective work and responsibility, cooperative economics, purpose, creativity and faith.

The Kwanzaa Karamu, held Dec. 31, is a special celebration filled with music, dance, readings, reflections, aspirations and foods, especially those with African origins. But people of both African and nonAfrican ancestry will recognize many of them as the the same dishes that have been traditionally served on New Year's Day.

In "Southern Food" (Chapel Hill Press), John Egerton points out that among the gentry of Virginia, black women slaves traditionally did the cooking and consequently influenced the foods served and their manner of preparation. He says, "From Africa with the people in bondage came new foods: okra, black-eyed peas, collard greens, yams...."

In "The Carolina Rice Kitchen - The African Connection" (University of South Carolina Press) Karen Hess writes, "Tradition says collards will bring you green-backs and Hoppin' John small change the year round - if they are eaten on New Year's Day."

Hoppin' John comes in as many variations as there are people in the African Diaspora, but always contains black-eyed peas. Collards now are often combined with other greens in hearty potages, whose rich pot liquor may be sopped with a slice of corn bread.

A final New Year's Day standard is pork, either included in a dish or served on its own. An old saying in the South is, "We use everything on the pig except the oink." But some health-conscious cooks now substitute smoked turkey, which gives a good imitation of the ham flavor with less fat, sodium and calories.

The following roast and tenderloin recipes are from the Pork Information Bureau. All others are included among the 140 in "Kwanzaa - An African-American Celebration of Culture and Cooking" by Eric V. Copage (William Morrow), one of the best sources around on the history, principles and practice of this 28-year-old holiday.

\ [see microfilm for the following recipes] HONEY-MUSTARD TENDERLOIN

PEPPERED PORK ROAST

PORK BONES, FAMILY STYLE

SHEILA'S THREE MIXED GREENS

SWEET POTATO PUDDING

HOPPIN' JOHN

GRANDMA'S CREAMED CORN BREAD

COU COU (CORNMEAL AND OKRA POLENTA)

by CNB