ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SUNDAY, March 6, 1994                   TAG: 9403070151
SECTION: HOMES                    PAGE: E-1   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: John Arbogast
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Long


PROPER CARE CAN HELP TREES WEATHER THE STORMS

It's probably safe to say that some of the damage done to landscape trees by recent ice storms could have been prevented by proper care and selection. Obviously, some sound-looking trees were damaged, which tells us that a significant part the damage could not have been prevented.

Proper pruning at appropriate times of year is critical. It is important when trees are young to eliminate those so-called V-shaped crotches, which occur at intersections of trunks or main limbs and side or competing limbs.

This intersection, also referred to as a narrow-angle crotch, becomes weaker as growth continues and is likely to split under the weight of snow or ice or from high winds. A strong branch intersection is one that is a wide angle (45 to 60 degrees) to the trunk.

Good tree professionals should know that shade trees should not be topped, an unfortunate tree butchering practice that still is done in this area. Big trees that were topped in recent years and survived were candidates for damage this winter weather because of large branches that grew after the topping. This growth is more rapid than normal and often results in a crowded arrangement.

Who should you call on to do tree work that will improve a tree's health and really be necessary? Look for professionals who have taken extensive study, passed their test and through experience and trainings have earned and maintained certified arborist credentials.

Unneeded fertilizing of landscape trees also can play a role in storm injury if excessive growth has been stimulated. Go easy with fertilizers around trees, particularly evergreens that might make long growth shoots that are heavier and more apt to break under heavy loads. Fertilizing is helpful for some trees, and the best way to find out may be to take a soil test from the tree root area.

Plant selection, as well as placement, plays an important role in potential winter damage. Even small trees planted close to a building will likely grow lopsided and have longer limbs subject to breakage. In selecting new trees, avoid those known to have crowded branches with V-shaped crotches, such as the old Bradford Pears. Trees known to carry heavy loads of ornamental fruits or berries through the winter will have more surfaces to gather ice and snow, increasing their chances of bending or breaking. The Virginia Pine, also known as scrub pine, is an evergreen tree to avoid planting close to the house because of its tendency to blow over, break apart or uproot.

Q: Can you suggest any plant that will grow along my sunny driveway where I know the soil is poor, probably subsoil. I've tried junipers that lived, but didn't grow. After three years, I dug up one of the junipers I had planted there and found that the roots were the same shape and amount as I had planted. Also, tough flowers that had been recommended to grow anywhere didn't do well at all. What can I do? C.D., Bedford

A: The situation with the junipers indicates that the soil was too compacted and of poor quality to allow root expansion. Root growth (or a lack of) determines whether the top of a plant can get bigger and thrive. I am assuming that the area has sufficient drainage, because the junipers - as well as the flowers - did not die of root rot, although tight soils often have poor drainage.

Rather than suggesting a better plant, I can suggest these three things that will be necessary to get plants to grow along your driveway:

Soil improvement - either (A) dig out and replace soil in the entire area, not just around each plant spot, to a depth of 16 inches, mixing some new topsoil into the existing subsoil at the bottom of the pit so there's not a sharp line between the new and old soil; (B) work in a large quantity of organic matter, such as compost, peat or manure, into the existing soil at least 16 inches down in a wide band. This may need to be done over two years so that a sufficiently large quantity of organic matter can be mixed in.

Ensure drainage - it may be necessary to install below-soil drainage paths so the improved soil will not serve as a large sink for water that moves only slowly into the compacted soil below.

Loosen the root system of any new plants installed in this area to encourage new lateral root expansion.

Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants or insects to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered each week. Personal replies cannot be given. Please don't send stamps, stamped envelopes, samples or pictures.

Green line time

Beginning Monday and continuing through the growing season, the Roanoke City Extension Office is requesting that horticulture calls be made only between 9 a.m. and 2 p.m., Monday through Friday.

As always, folks with plant questions and/or samples should contact their local Extension Office. This request is based on the way the Cooperative Extension was set up with local agents and technicians hired to serve the particular locality but specialists whose jobs it is to serve the state housed at the Land Grant Universities and research stations.

John Arbogast is the agriculture extension agent for Roanoke



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