Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: WEDNESDAY, September 21, 1994                   TAG: 9411030014
SECTION: EXTRA                    PAGE: 3   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: BETH CRITTENDEN
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Medium

CABERNET SAUVIGNON HAS A VARIETY OF STYLES

The Cabernet grape is a small, thick-skinned variety that typically produces a wine with dark purple color and lots of tannin and acidity. Tannin will enable the wine to age and change gracefully for a softer taste later, and acidity adds a desirable tartness, sometimes thought of as the "backbone" of the wine.

A distinctive "black currant" characteristic is shared among most Cabernets. Other common characteristics of this wine include vanilla or chocolate, black fruits and cedar.

For people who are fairly knowledgeable about wine, Cabernet evokes thoughts of Claret, even though this well-known product does not advertise its Cabernet connection. The word comes from the French clairet, which means light in color. But the wine is a blend of about 60 percent to 70 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Cabernet Sauvignon can range from the subtle, elegant and complex style more commonly found in France, to the bolder, mouth-filling style associated with many California varieties.

At a recent Cabernet Sauvignon tasting in Roanoke, samplers discovered a variety of styles in the five different wines tasted. The Cabernet from California had big, dark fruit and black cherry characteristics and sturdy tannin for aging. The Chilean Cabernet was lighter, with a brighter fruit taste, made for current drinking. The Virginia Cabernet had light berry smells and soft tannin, also making it approachable for current drinking. The Australian Cabernet was loaded with intense raspberry and blackberry flavors and smells. And the French Bordeaux started out with a leathery, earthy aroma - almost like wet socks - but evolved into a fascinating and delicious wine, full of complexity and elegance.

In America, Australia, Chile and other countries, the wine is identified by the grape varietal. Most French producers identify the wine by the appellation or officially recognized grape-growing region in which it was produced. Hence, a French Cabernet Sauvignon may be referred to as a Bordeaux, the region most associated with Cabernet Sauvignon.

Most wine-producing areas have regulations as to the minimum amount of the primary grape allowed in a wine, so a wine designated Cabernet Sauvignon may legally contain small amounts of grapes other than Cabernet.

When pairing Cabernets with food, the classic match-up is with beef or lamb. A good rule of thumb is to match a more complex or aged wine with simple food such as steak or a roast to allow the subtleties of the wine to be enjoyed. A younger, brighter wine will hold its own with a more complex dish, such as Beef Stroganoff or meat with heavy sauces. Some rich and fruity Cabernets match well with a dark chocolate or rich berry dessert. Milk chocolates or overly sweet chocolates are best savored by themselves.

Whether your wine preference is for dry or sweet, white or red, hearty or light, you will find it among more than 100 made in Virginia wines featured Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. at the Smith Mountain Lake Wine Festival. Held at Bernard's Landing Resort, the 1994 "Festival by the Lake" will feature wine tastings from 17 Virginia wineries, fine arts and crafts from 18 crafters, two days of Cajun Country music and a variety of foods.

"The festival will be held rain or shine, so if it's cloudy, people will have more opportunity to talk to the wine makers under tents, and if it's clear, we can better enjoy the view of the lake," festival organizer Phil Hagar said.

Hagar will preview the wines to be featured at the festival and offer advance tickets at Thursday's wine society meeting. Call 721-1203 or (800) 676-8203 for additional festival information.

Cheers!

\ BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY TORTE (A sensational match with a fruity, chocolatey Cabernet Sauvignon)

(see microfilm for recipe)

THE WINE LIST runs once a month in the Extra section. Beth Crittenden is director of the Roanoke Valley Wine Society, which meets for wine-tasting programs the fourth Thursday of each month. Call 992-3285. Crittenden also is a Virginia wine wholesaler and because of this affiliation will not make specific brand-name recommendations. Address your questions about wines to The Wine List, c/o the features department, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010-2491.