Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: WEDNESDAY, July 13, 1994 TAG: 9407150056
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: ALMENA HUGHES STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
Those berries, along with a little honey and cornstarch, were the base of a Wojapi (pronounced wo-JA-pee) or stew that Whitewolf favored while growing up and that he hopes will be among the American Indian foods represented Saturday and Sunday at the second annual Monacan Powwow, which he coordinated.
"The number of berries has significance, too," Whitewolf continued about the berry mixture, which he described as sort of like a cobbler without a crust. "Four, six and seven are sacred numbers to us. But we never use five.
"At any meal, we break off a little bit of the food and take it outside to an altar for our relatives who have passed on and also for the things that have given their lives so that we can have the meal."
Whitewolf, secretary of the Monacan tribe, said he grew up with rituals and meanings. His goals now are twofold: to clarify some of those rituals and meanings as part of his effort to relay the truth about American Indians to his own people as well as nonIndians, and to buy back from the government the 2,400 acres that comprise the Monacans' sacred Bear Mountain. The powwow, for which Whitewolf also served as advertising director, will aid both causes.
To help educate, the powwow's attractions will include more than 100 Indian dancers in full regalia, representing about 25 tribes from across the country, and 30 craftsmen with wares such as paintings, stone and antler carvings, knives, jewelry, baskets and pottery. Six tipis - one fully outfitted - will replicate an 1860 Sioux village. Formal and informal talks on Indian spirituality, politics and lifestyle will be offered, as will Indian stories, lore and music.
The powwow's proceeds will pay off the 111 acres of Bear Mountain bought from the 1993 event's monies and go toward purchasing additional acreage.
"No one makes a profit from this powwow," Whitewolf said. "The tribe volunteers to put it on."
Whitewolf expects representatives from tribes including Mohawk, Navaho, Zuni, Sioux, Hadista, Mandan, Cherokee, Oneida, Tuscarora, Pscaluva, Saponi, Chicahomina, Pumankey, Mallopani, Rappahanok, Ottawa, Creek and Monacan, to come together for the event. He said that ironically the English language, which in many instances was forced upon the Indians, has played an important role in aiding intertribal unity.
"I think it's very important for us to learn to speak our own languages. But before, those languages and customs could separate us. The common English language has allowed us to do much together.... In the '70s, injustices and lies against the Indians started to be recognized; in the '80s, others were telling our stories; now, in the '90s we're coming together to tell our own stories," Whitewolf said.
Himself an artisan and frequent lecturer on spirituality and conservation, Whitewolf said he is working to get rid of Hollywood stereotypes of Indians as either savages or mystical gods of the ecology.
"Yes, our religion is beautiful, and I speak on how to conserve the environment and prevent its contamination instead of how to remove the plastic bottles and other litter from it. But people need to understand that while we're special, we're also just two-legged like everybody else."
Written and filmic works that Whitewolf felt give the most accurate representations of Indians include "Bury My Heart at Wounded Knee" by Dee Brown; "Custer Died For Your Sins" and "We Talk, You Listen" by Sioux author and professor of American Indian law Vine DeLoria; "Dances With Wolves" and "The Last of the Mohicans." As to politically correct terminology, Whitewolf said, "I can't speak for everyone. But I think that Native American is too vague and Native American Indian is redundant. I grew up as an American Indian and that's what I prefer to be called."
As to food preferences, Whitewolf said, "We eat a lot of soups and we like flat breads. Most Indians like meat. We are said to have once consumed five to eight pounds of meat per day."
The powwow's six food vendors will offer several dishes made from buffalo meat, including burgers, a stew with "authentic wild rice," Indian tacos on the dietary staple, fry bread; and buffalo in a blanket. Whitewolf said the state of Virginia will not yet allow the sale of deer, pheasant or bear meat at powwows, though he hopes to eventually be able to offer those too. Beef burgers, hot dogs and colas also will be available to appease the unadventurous, he said.
Whitewolf said he has picked up many American Indian cookbooks while traveling around the country, or local book stores can usually order copies, upon request. Whitewolf couldn't remember authors' names, but he listed among his favorite cookbooks "Cherokee Cooking," "American Indian Cooking,"and "Herbs and Spices of American Indians."
The library has several books on the subject including "Native American Cookbook," by Edna Henry and "Native American Cooking: Foods of the Southwest Indian Nations" by Lois Ellen Frank, from which the recipe above was excerpted. The recipe, an adaptation of stuffed green peppers, combines many regional ingredients that grow wild throughout the land. A local book seller also suggested "The Art of American Indian Cooking" by Yeffe Kimball.
An excellent and informative source of American Indian as well as other traditional ethnic and regional recipes is "The Smithsonian Folklife Cookbook," by Katherine and Tom Kirlin. It features foods that have been served at the Smithsonian Institution's annual Festival of American Folklife over the past quarter century. Published in 1991, the extremely popular book is now only available in paperback ($15.95) and has about a six-week backlog time. Order from Smithsonian Institution Press, Blue Ridge Summit, Pa. 17294-0900; (800) 782-4612.
A final favorite of Whitewolf's is "Native American Cooking" by the American Indian Society of Washington (D.C.).
"It's got both old and modern recipes in it," Whitewolf said. "Things like skunk stew, dog soup and bumble bee soup."
He pondered for a moment how people get an idea to try cooking some things in the first place, then he launched into an impromptu unauthentic parable:
"In ancient times, a man and a woman were on a hill and they prayed to the gods to tell them the uses of certain things. The gods gave them recipes."
LAMB-STUFFED GREEN CHILIES WITH FRESH TOMATO PUREE
12 firm green anaheim chiles
1 Tbsp. cooking oil
2/3 cup finely chopped wild onions or yellow onions
1 1/2 pounds ground lamb
1 cup bread crumbs
2 ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp. white pepper
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. dried thyme
2 bay leaves
1 tsp. dried tarragon
Fresh tomato puree:
1 1/4 pounds ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
Roast, peel, and seed chiles, keeping them whole. Set aside. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat and saute the onions about 4 minutes, until translucent. Add the ground lamb and brown 15 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Drain off the excess fat and add the bread crumbs, tomatoes, garlic, pepper, salt, and herbs. Reduce the heat and simmer another 30 minutes. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Remove the mixture from the heat and let cool.
Slice the chiles lengthwise, spread them open on a work surface and generously stuff each chile with the mixture. Set aside.
To make the sauce, combine the tomatoes and garlic in a saucepan and cook over medium-low heat 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the excess liquid evaporates. Remove from the heat and pour through a fine sieve. Heat again over medium heat until the sauce reduces and is thick, about 5 minutes. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 350, F. Place the stuffed chiles in a baking dish and warm in the oven 5 to 10 minutes. Serve immediately with the tomato puree. Makes 6 servings.
- "Native American Cooking" by Lois Ellen Frank. Copyright 1991 by Loi Ellen Frank. Published by Clarkson N. Potter Inc.
Monacan Indian PowWow Saturday, 10 a.m. - 10 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m.- 6 p.m.
Adults, $5; Children, $3; Age 5 and under, free. (804) 229-5080; (804) 929-0334; (804) 384-3972
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