Roanoke Times
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, July 24, 1994 TAG: 9407250101
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: E1 EDITION: METRO
SOURCE: John Arbogast
DATELINE: LENGTH: Long
To do the sod removal and transplanting work yourself in a large area, you will likely have to borrow or rent a machine known as a sod cutter, which, as the name implies, is designed to slice an even layer of turf with roots in nice pieces that can be relaid promptly in a suitable location. Try rent-all places for availability.
To make this project worthwhile, the grass to be taken and moved must be in a desirable state with few weeds and nice density. The new location should have similar moisture and sunshine that the grass has been used to. Fescue species generally don't bind together sufficiently to make good sod pieces without help.
To replenish the soil, take a soil test now so you can rototil in lime or sulfur if needed to adjust the pH. Also, you should till in a 2-inch layer of organic matter, such as finished compost, peat moss or leaf mold. The sod cutter should not remove much of the existing topsoil from the spot.
Q: My azaleas are turning yellow one after another. Two are dead. This spring they bloomed in spite of the ice. What should I do? E.S.B., Roanoke
A: Without knowing more details, I would say there are numerous possible causes here, mostly site and/or care related. You should call your local Extension office to discuss the situation and you probably should bring in a sample. Needed information would include: when was this first noted, did it occur in past years, how long have the azaleas been planted, is the leaf yellowing overall or just between the leaf veins, the size of the leaves (small vs. normal), moisture received, and general plant maintenance.
Q: We have had a really bad time with earwigs in our area of Galax this year and last. Is there anything special that we can use? Nothing seems to kill them that we have tried. They are especially bad in our vegetable garden. C.M.B., Galax
A: First, let me say for readers who don't know these pests, earwigs are beetle-like insects that are flattened, have long antennae, and pincer-looking forceps on their tail end. There are no easy methods for controlling these pests. Nearly all the commonly used garden insecticides will kill the young stage (nymphs) and adult earwigs. The problem is that once those found around the house or garden are controlled, more can move in from other locations. Virginia Tech recommends the insecticide Sevin for earwig control. This insecticide does have many labeled uses in the vegetable garden. Apply sprays in late afternoon if possible so that residues are fresh when the earwigs become active in the evening.
Since earwigs are attracted to damp and dark places and do prefer to remain in narrow cracks and crevices when they are not actively looking for food or a mate, an effective nonchemical control measure would be to eliminate things or areas that provide shelter for earwigs, such as excessive mulch, peeling bark, paper and cardboard.
Q: Please give me your advice regarding my locust tree. I have two 40-foot tall locusts that have been on my property for at least 35 years. Last year and this year one of them has large white spongy fungus or mushroom-type growths growing on the trunk. One side is covered from the base up to about 5 feet from the ground. I removed the growths several times last year but they have come back. I am concerned that they eat into the tree and are causing it to rot or die from inside out, possibly resulting in the tree coming down. Is this a cause to have the tree taken down? F.S., Pearisburg
A: These growths are a type of mushroom, which means these they are the reproductive bodies of fungi. Since most mushroom fungi live on decaying matter, I can say without seeing your locust that these growths are probably the outward sign that the trunk wood is rotting. I really can't say that this locust needs to come down now without knowing how much decay is there. It might be just under the bark. Look for an individual tree worker who has earned the "certified arborist" credential and arrange for that trained person to give an on-site evaluation of the locust and make recommendations.
Q: Is there a preferred time for fertilizing asparagus and strawberries? What would happen if this is done at the wrong time, or does it matter? K.S., Salem
A: Spring-bearing strawberries (as opposed to everbearing or day neutrals) should be fertilized soon after harvesting is completed when the strawberry bed is being renovated. Fertilizer applied in the early spring could cause the spring strawberries to be soft. Asparagus should be fertilized in the early spring just before the spears are expected to emerge. Nutrients applied at any other time might be wasted.
NOTE to N.W., Blacksburg (boxwood) and E.B., Roanoke (birch): As the closing Dear John paragraph says each week, no samples please. Due to sample deterioration as well as the purpose of this column to receive and share written information, I am unable to respond.
Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants, or insects to Dear John, c/o the Roanoke Times & World-News, P. O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered each week. Personal replies cannot be given. Please don't send stamps, stamped envelopes, samples or pictures.
John Arbogast is the agriculture and natural resources extension agent for Roanoke.
by CNB