
                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: WEDNESDAY, July 27, 1994                   TAG: 9408180008
SECTION: EXTRA                    PAGE: 3   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: 
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Long

BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO WINE AND FOOD

Those of us who are passionate about wine think of it simply as another ingredient of a meal, rather than an extravagance to be indulged in infrequently. Sipping wine with food adds another dimension to the flavors being enjoyed and to the whole atmosphere of the meal, whether dining alone, with a few friends or the whole family.

Choosing a wine to go with a certain food is a game with no absolutes. The guidelines for some of the more popular wine varieties listed below (with wines listed lightest to heaviest) can be used as a starting point, then you are encouraged to experiment on your own. Two good rules of thumb are to match lighter wines with lighter foods and more robust wines with heartier dishes and, if possible, to look for similar flavor characteristics in the wine and food. Beyond that, drink what you like and remember, just about any wine with a meal is more enjoyable than no wine at all!

WHITE WINES

Champagne or Sparkling Wines can be Brut (driest), Extra-Dry (slightly dry), Dry or Sec (a little sweet) and Half Dry or Demi Sec (sweet). The drier styles are good with appetizers and light meals, and the sweeter styles are great for desserts or picnics. Choose your preference with brunch.

Semillon (say-me-yon) is a light, usually crisp and dry white wine with citrus fruits and herb characteristics. Some people consider it to be the ultimate seafood wine. Try it with lightly sauced seafood or shellfish.

Riesling (REEZ-ling) can be made in a dry style, slightly sweet (off-dry) or very sweet as found in a dessert wine. Apricot, honey, nutty characteristics are common, and the wine often goes well with fruit and mild cheeses, light quiches, cold cuts and summer salads and almond dishes. Late Harvest Riesling for dessert can be paired with fruit desserts, such as apple pie, or consumed by itself.

Chenin Blanc (shuh-nehn blahnk) is often a bit sweet, exhibiting citrus, apple and melon characteristics. It matches well with fried chicken, light pork dishes, shellfish and salads.

Gewurztraminer (guh-VERTS-tra-meen-er) exhibits a spicy characteristic in flavor and aroma and can be made in a dry, off-dry or dessert-wine style. The slight sweetness and spiciness of the wine is a perfect match with spicy foods such as Oriental, Cajun or Mexican dishes. It also is good with spiced baked ham and barbecue.

Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio (pee-no gree/pee-no gree-jee-o) is a dry, crisp wine with a hint of smokiness and tart apple. Grilled firm fish, herbed chicken and smoked meats are good matches.

Sauvignon Blanc/Fume Blanc (saw-veen-yawn blahnk/foo-may blahnk) is a dry, crisp, refreshing wine with herbal, bell pepper and lemon characteristics. A great cookout wine, it goes well with grilled fish and chicken and oysters.

Chardonnay (shar-dun-nay) in a lighter style can be very fruity with hints of pineapple and banana. More commonly found are the richly styled buttery Chardonnays, which pick up more complexity when aged in oak barrels. These wines can taste and smell of butter, toast and vanilla and are classic matches with entrees in a cream-based sauce as well as broiled scallops, fried oysters and clams and grilled chicken with a mustard sauce. A really rich Chardonnay will even hold its own with beef stew and heavy sauces for beef, such as bordelaise and bearnaise.

RED WINES

Pinot Noir (pee-noh nwahr) is a light red wine with cherry, berry, pepper and sometimes earthy characteristics. Roast beef, pizza, mushroom dishes, grilled salmon or swordfish or pork are good matches. It's another classic cookout wine.

Merlot (mare-low) is a rich wine with chocolate, black pepper and plum jam tastes and smells. It goes well with pasta with red sauce, grilled tuna steaks, heavy seafood dishes, hamburgers and sharp cheeses.

Zinfandel (ZIN-fun-dell) (not White Zinfandel, which is a light, sweet blush wine made from the same grape) can exhibit flavors of spice and raspberry and matches well with beef stew, pot roast, venison roast and grilled lamb.

Cabernet Sauvignon (ca-buhr-nay saw-veen-yawn) is a rich wine whose style can be bold and fruity or softer and more elegant. Black currant flavors and smells are commonly found, as well as cedar, berries, chocolate. It is the classic match to beef and stands up well to rich dishes such as stroganoff and rich beef sauces. Lamb, game and dark chocolate also match well.

Syrah/Shiraz (si-RAH/shi-RAHZ) is a robust wine with smoke, pepper, raspberry and cherry characteristics. The abundant fruitiness and richness of this wine matches up to hearty fare such as pepper steak and grilled meats or game.

Cheers!

THE WINE LIST runs once a month. Beth Crittenden is director of the Roanoke Valley Wine Society, which meets for wine-tasting programs the fourth Thursday of each month. Call 992-3285. Crittenden also is a Virginia wine wholesaler and because of this affiliation will not make specific brand-name recommendations. Address your questions about wines to The Wine List, Features Department, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010.

by CNB