ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SUNDAY, August 28, 1994                   TAG: 9410120011
SECTION: HOMES                    PAGE: E1   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: GENE AUSTIN KNIGHT-RIDDER NEWSPAPERS
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Medium


SANDING FLOOR IS ANSWER

Q: We have oak flooring that was finished with polyurethane, then waxed. We'd liked to apply more polyurethane, but a contractor said we would have to strip and sand the floors to bare wood first. Another source said we can remove the wax with mineral spirits and refinish. What is mineral spirits and what is your opinion of all this?

A: Mineral spirits is simply paint thinner, a solvent sold in cans at most paint stores and home centers. Mineral spirits will soften and dissolve wax but must be used with care since it is flammable and has a strong odor.

However, I think it is doubtful whether you can remove the floor wax thoroughly enough to apply polyurethane, which will not adhere to wax. You could try de-waxing and refinishing a small, inconspicuous area, but you will probably find the contractor is right and that stripping and sanding is needed.

Q: Do we use caulk or grout to seal the joint where our bathtub meets the wall tiles? How do we do it?

A: Bathtubs, which move slightly when they are filled with water, need a caulk that is flexible enough to seal tub-tile joints without cracking. Grout, which is made to seal joints between tiles, is too brittle for this type of application.

Special tub caulks are sold in tubes and caulking-gun cartridges at many home centers and hardware stores. Check the label to see if the caulk is resistant to mildew. In damp bathrooms and showers, mildew can ruin the appearance of ordinary caulks in a short time. Polyseamseal is a well-known brand of tub caulk that is available in a variety of colors.

Remove old caulk before recaulking. Usually, old caulk can be carefully scraped off with a putty knife without damaging the finish of the tub or tiles. After the old caulk is removed, clean the joint of soap scum and other contaminants by scrubbing with a soft cloth moistened with rubbing alcohol. If caulk is applied to a dirty joint, adhesion can be poor and leaks might result.

Another step that can help prevent leaks at the caulked joint is to fill the tub with water beore caulking and do the caulking while standing in the tub. Your weight and the weight of the water cause the tub to sink slightly, as it does during a bath or shower. If the tub is caulked while empty, small cracks can develop in the caulked joint when weight is applied.

Before caulking a tub, read the directions carefully. A caulk bead that is lumpy or uneven can be smoothed with a wet fingertip. Smoothing also helps force the caulk deeper into the joint. Smooth the caulk immediately after application or it will begin curing and become difficult to work.

Q: The tanks of two 20-year old toilets in our house cracked open and dumped water on the floor within weeks of each other. I've been given a lot of theories about why the tanks cracked. What's your opinion?

A: I think it's just coincidence that the tanks fell apart at about the same time. However, this should be a warning to owners of older toilets to check the tanks occasionally for hairline cracks. Remove the lids and look inside, since some cracks are not visible from the outside. A tank that has even a small crack should be replaced, since a great deal of damage can be done if it gives way.

Q: We use a wood stove to heat part of our house and are trying to locate a special compact fan that helps spread the stove heat from room to room. Can you help?

A: The fan you want, called a room-to-room fan, is available from Improvements, 4944 Commerce Parkway, Cleveland 44128. The fan mounts in the upper corner of a door frame and is so small it does not interfere with passage or door closings. The fan is item 46870 and costs $29.99 plus shipping. To order by phone, call 800-642-2112.

\ Often-asked Question: We have several door locks and padlocks that have become sticky and difficult to operate. What's the best way to lubricate them?

A: Get a small squirt-bottle of powdered graphite at a hardware store or home center. Squirt a little of the graphite into the keyhole and around the lock's bolt. If there is carpet or other stainable material under the lock, cover it with newspaper to catch excess graphite.

Also spread a little graphite on the key, insert it into the keyhole, and lock and unlock the lock several times.

If a padlock is being lubricated, squirt graphite into all openings and on the key, and lock and unlock several times.

It is best not to use oil to lubricate locks since the oil can pick up dirt and make the locks even more difficult to operate.

(Readers' questions and comments should be sent to Gene Austin, The Philadelphia Inquirer, Box 8263, Philadelphia, Pa. 19101.)



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