ROANOKE TIMES

                         Roanoke Times
                 Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: SUNDAY, October 1, 1995                   TAG: 9509290003
SECTION: TRAVEL                    PAGE: G-8   EDITION: METRO 
SOURCE: JULIE S. RUTHERFORD SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES
DATELINE:                                 LENGTH: Long


WINE, DINE AND BASK IN HISTORY

A visit to Charlottesville does not begin and end with a trip to Scott Stadium or University Hall. University of Virginia athletics is just part of the Charlottesville experience that includes a wide variety of activities and events that could be a part of a special getaway, just two hours from Roanoke.

The influence of Charlottesville's most famous resident, Thomas Jefferson, is everywhere, from UVa to Monticello. The university is an excellent starting point for your weekend activities as it offers an exciting glimpse into the area's historic past.

The impressive Rotunda and Lawn expanse is the focal point of the university grounds. The Rotunda, built between 1823 and 1826, is the best known and loved symbol of the university.

Coveted student Lawn rooms, awarded to individuals who have excelled in academics, athletics or some other aspect of student life, line the arcaded brick walkways on either side of the Rotunda. Ten pavilions, designed by Jefferson to serve as examples of Roman temples for architectural students, contribute to the Lawn's majesty. Many retain their original function as faculty living quarters and classrooms.

Along the back of the West and East Lawn buildings, the historic Ranges contain additional student rooms and Hotels. Formerly dining halls, the Hotels host student organizations such as the Jefferson Literary and Debating Society. Don't miss the Edgar Allen Poe room, #13 on the West range, which has a four-minute recording of the brief 1820s university stint of the famous author.

If you're up for a little stargazing, continue down Alderman road. Go through the stoplight and up Observatory Hill until you reach McCormick Observatory. Catch a glimpse of heaven through its 26-inch refractor telescope. The observatory is free and open to the public the first and third Friday of every month 9-11 p.m.

In addition to founding UVa, Jefferson designed and inhabited a national architectural wonder, Monticello. A mere three miles southeast of Charlottesville on Virginia 53, Monticello attests to the agricultural, scientific and architectural genius of the author of the Declaration of Independence. Guided tours of Jefferson's home, garden and grounds explore the intricacies of Monticello. Take Interstate 64 East to exit 121A, go west to exit 121, and follow the signs to Monticello. Open 8 a.m.- 5 p.m. Adults $8; children 6-11, $4; senior citizens 60-plus, $7.

One-half mile before Monticello on Virginia 53 is Michie Tavern, one of the oldest homesteads in Virginia. Opened in 1784, Michie Tavern maintains a spirit of hospitality. Continuous tours through the 18-century inn show the tavern's parlors and guest rooms, including one of the largest and finest collections of 18th-century furniture. "The Ordinary" at the Michie Tavern serves up a daily luncheon buffet featuring typical Colonial dishes. Open 9 a.m - 5 p.m. Adults, $5; children 6-11, $1; senior citizens 60-plus and students, $4.50. Buffet $9.50 for adults, $3.95 for children.

On the other side of Monticello down Virginia 795, you'll find Ash Lawn-Highland, home of President James Monroe. The 535-acre estate maintains the atmosphere of a 19th-century working plantation, complete with peacocks in the boxwood gardens. Take one of the daily tours to view the elegant Federal-style rooms and colorful gardens. Adults and college students $6. Children 6-11, $3. Senior citizens 60-plus, $5.50.

Before visiting Monticello, Ash Lawn or the Michie Tavern, stop by the Monticello Visitors center on Virginia 20 South (open daily from 9 a.m. - 5:30 p.m.) for tourist information about the area and to buy the "President's Pass" combination ticket to Monticello, Ash Lawn and Michie Tavern that's $17 for adults 12-59; $15.50 for seniors.

Charlottesville bears the title "Wine Capital of Virginia." Several vineyards are close to Monticello. Jefferson set out the colony's first vineyard on the present-day site of Jefferson Vineyards, located between Monticello and Ash Lawn on Virginia 795. Open daily from 11 a.m - 5 p.m. for tours and tastings.

Montdomaine Cellars is 10 miles south of Monticello on Virginia 720. Montdomaine boasts award-winning wines and a picturesque setting. Tours and tastings available Wednesday-Sunday noon- 5 p.m. Totier Creek Vineyard and Winery is also on Virginia 720. Other great wine experiences await you at the Oakencroft Vineyard and Winery off U.S. 29 North on Barracks Road and at the Prince Michel de Virginia wine museum, winery and French restaurant down U.S. 29 South in Leon.

If all this Virginia vintage piques your appetite, Charlottesville can more than satisfy your palate. The popular University Corner, near the East Lawn area, contains many casual restaurants, serving anything from Mexican to gourmet pizza to vegetarian soups, salads and sandwiches. The perennial Cavalier restaurant, The Virginian, offers a selection of light continental fare. Try Michael's Bistro for the best selection of domestic and import beers.

Continue down Main Street away from the Rotunda, toward the deliciously eccentric Blue Moon Cafe, the savory Blue Bird Cafe and the popular watering hole and eatery, The Blue Ridge Brewery, which boasts a selection of tasty homebrews from the premises. Right beside is the Tex-Mex mecca Continental Divide.

The historic Downtown District contains a wealth of restaurants. If you're up for sumptuous French cuisine, try the C&O Restaurant. For a more casual dinner a la Francaise, the Metropolitain is your ticket. Excellent Thai food is just down the Mall at the Monsoon Cafe. Hearty sandwiches and meter-high beers await you at the Hardware Store. For a Mediterranean flair, stop by Brasa and order tapas and Spanish wine. After dinner, drop by Miller's on the Mall for good beer and better jazz or try the Court Square Tavern's selection of fine brews.

In addition to great food, Downtown Charlottesville serves up a huge portion of history. A great walking tour begins on the pedestrian "Mall," on the original Three Notched Road. Most of the above-mentioned restaurants and many unique shops are there. Start near the Omni Hotel and walk to the East end of the Mall, directly opposite. Take a right on Sixth Street to go to the Virginia Discovery Museum. Open 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, Sunday 1 p.m. - 5 p.m. Seniors and children 1-13, $2; adults, $3.

Go back toward the Mall and continue up Sixth Street.

On the right corner of Sixth and East Market is 218 Court Square, one of the five brick structures in the block built in mid-19th century on earlier frame structures.

Across from 100 Court Square on East Jefferson Street, Number 0 or "Number Nothing" was originally planned as a horse lot. When James Leitch erected two buildings on the spot, the site acquired its unusual address because the street number sequence had already been established.

The Red Land Club, location of the old Swan Tavern, is across from Number 0 on Jefferson Street. In 1781, the tavern housed the overflow of the Virginia legislature's meeting at the Court House. The tavern keeper's son, Jack Jouett, made his famous 40-mile ride from a Louisa tavern to warn the legislators in the Swan of the approach of Colonel Tarleton. Gov. Jefferson, Patrick Henry, Benjamin Harrison and John Tyler were among the notables saved from capture by Jouett's efforts. Daniel Boone was the most famous captive of the raid.

The Old Town Hall, later to become the Levy Opera House in 1851, is beside the Swan. During Jefferson's lifetime, the lot served as the battery, an open sports and game area for men and boys.

Across the street facing East Jefferson, the Albemarle County Courthouse, originally built in 1762 and subsequently replaced with the presents structures in 1803, 1859 and 1867, served political as well as civic functions. Thomas Jefferson called in the "Common Temple."

Beside the Courthouse, Jackson Park occupies the site of the former McKee Block, where a grocer, hatter, tailor and hotel existed. The town's first newspaper, the Central Gazette, was in a building on the northern end of the block. McKee Block was torn down around 1918 for the creation of the park. A jury of sculptors judged Charles Keck's 1921 statue of Stonewall Jackson in Jackson Park to be one of the greatest equestrian statues in the world.

Charlottesville is a hotspot for antique enthusiasts. The Downtown area hosts several unique shops such as T.S. Elways Oriental Rugs on the Mall and Court Square Antiques on Fourth Street. A little farther out, Chez Fox Antiques on Virginia 231 in Keswick and Ann Woods Ltd. on Virginia 250 display unusual furniture, decorative items and crafts. A little closer to town, Meadowbrook Wallpaper Shop on Emmet Street, and Charlottesville Antique and Lighting Gallery and the larger-than-life Antiquers Mall, both on U.S. 29 North, feature tempting pieces.

The Charlottesville/ Albemarle area has a wealth of outdoor activities. For hiking and backpacking information, as well as backpacking, camping and canoe rentals, drop by Blue Ridge Mountain Sports in the Barracks Road Shopping Center. They carry excellent manuals and trail maps at nominal cost. Mountain bikers have a great time scaling Observatory Hill and other woodland trails. Try Go Pal Bike Shop for rentals and information. Golf courses abound as well.

Fishing enthusiasts have the opportunity to hook a few worms in several convenient locations. Beaver Creek Lake off Virginia 680 near Crozet is the best fishing lake in the county. Walnut Creek Park off Virginia 631, a half a mile south of the Virginia 708 intersection, is the county's newest and biggest park. Swimming, fishing and picnicking are possible for a small fee. Call Albemarle County Parks and Recreation for information.

And for the big picture, Bon-Air Charters offers spectacular balloon rides of the Charlottesville/Albemarle region.

Howard Johnson's, Holiday Inn, the Cavalier Best Western Inn and many more hotels, motels and inns provide affordable and convenient lodgings starting around $65 a double. You'll even find a KOA campground near Monticello off exit 121A. Jellystone Park, exit 107 off 1-64, is another find for camping enthusiasts.

While more expensive than the usual hotel, a stay at one of the historic bed and breakfast inns gives you a glimpse of the region's past along with elegant rooms and impeccable service.

The 1817 Antique Inn, a Federal-style home built by Thomas Jefferson's craftsman, offers sumptuous rooms and a mouth-watering breakfast starting at $89 a double. Within walking distance of the UVa Rotunda and Lawn, the 1817 Inn is an excellent and exceptional homebase for your weekend. There's even a gourmet lunchroom and antique store on the first floor.

200 South Street Inn, in the heart of the Historic Downtown District, provides easy access to the many fine restaurants, bars, and attractions in the downtown area. Doubles start at $95 and include breakfast.

Although more remote, Prospect Hill Inn and the Clifton Country Inn give you a view of the renowned Central Virginia countryside. Prospect Hill offers elegant rooms with fireplaces, a five-course dinner with wine-tasting, and inroom breakfast starting at $225. The Clifton Inn, built about 1799, provides you with in-room fireplaces, tea, a full breakfast, pool, tennis courts and 48 acres of lush gardens for $165 and up.

Other well-know bed and breakfasts include Keswick Hall, Silver Thatch Inn and High Meadow Inn, all easily accessed from Charlottesville. Last but not least, the Boar's Head Inn on U.S. 250 West comes complete with pond, quaint rooms, sports complex and fine restaurant. Doubles start at $134.

In the 1870s, the Charlottesville town postmaster lay on his deathbed. A dear friend sitting at his bedside attempted to cheer his spirits by extolling the glories of heaven. The old gentleman agreed with his friend that heaven must be wonderful, but replied, "I believe I should prefer to compromise and remain in Charlottesville."



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