ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Tuesday, February 13, 1996 TAG: 9602130131
SECTION: CURRENT PAGE: NRV-5 EDITION: NEW RIVER VALLEY
DATELINE: PULASKI
SOURCE: JOANNE ANDERSON SPECIAL TO THE ROANOKE TIMES
Judy Osborne needed to reduce stress in her life following treatment for breast cancer in 1994 so she quit her job as a cook at a local restaurant. So far this makes sense.
Next, she opened Le Cafe Coffee & Tea Shoppe in downtown Pulaski where she is not only cook but also manager, bookkeeper, baker, buyer, cashier and server. Oh, and chief bottle washer because there's no dishwasher in the tiny kitchen of the 40-seat cafe.
"I get to make all the decisions," Osborne said, and that makes all the difference.
The second-story eatery is decidedly Victorian in decor but the atmosphere lacks the stiffness of the period; it's casual and inviting.
A fire is often burning in the ornate corner fireplace in one room. Lace curtains adorn the windows. Cushioned window seats in the bay windows and an eclectic assortment of fine china add to the charm.
Some of the antiques in the cafe are for sale, and the rest of the second floor is composed of dealer spaces with antiques, reproductions, vintage clothing and interior design services.
Breakfast starts at 9 a.m. and includes bacon and eggs as well as a scrambled egg-and-cheese croissant, poached eggs on English muffins and homemade sweet rolls.
In keeping with Southern tradition, biscuits and gravy with sausage are offered on Saturday mornings. The coffee and tea selections number close to two dozen with French vanilla cappuccino and a flavored coffee of the day topping the coffee list.
Lunch guests come from all corners of the New River Valley. June Gorman, wife of Len Ferrari, head of the electrical engineering department at Virginia Tech, took a small group of advisory committee wives to Le Cafe for tea following a cruise on Claytor Lake.
"I thought a tea shop was a lovely idea and it was close and cute," she said.
Homemade soups are a big hit among the lunch crowd, and Osborne, a Montana native, has included a few Southern dishes in her repertoire. Brown beans and cornbread is one, although her cornbread recipe came off an Albers corn meal package many years ago back out West.
The fresh salads are popular, and the seafood supreme is the most often ordered lunch entree. Seafood salad is piled on a toasted English muffin and topped with melted cheese. Tuna, chicken or ham salad sandwiches are listed along with a pita pocket, club, grilled cheese and turkey and cheese croissant.
Osborne makes all the desserts. Her personal favorite is the fresh apple carrot cake, but fruited angel food cake runs a close second. A fat-free cheesecake is available, and if you long for an old-time homemade favorite, order her black raspberry ice cream.
After hearing several comments about limited weekend dining options in Pulaski, Osborne decided to open for dinner. She serves only Saturday nights for now.
The menus vary each week, but always include three entrees, perhaps cranberry teriyaki steak, honey mustard pork cutlets and Swiss chicken with lemon pilaf. Of the two vegetable choices, you might choose from Harvard beets, cinnamon yams with pecans and honey-glazed carrots.
If you ever wondered who really tries recipes published in newspapers and magazines, wonder no more. Osborne does. When she sees an interesting recipe or a variation on something, she whips it up for test, makes some alterations if she wants and puts it on the menu.
The 54-year-old Osborne feels great and sums up her business philosophy quite simply: "Work hard and do your best."
Le Cafe Coffee & Tea Shoppe
Address: 27A Main St., Pulaski
Phone: 980-9110
Hours: Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. until 4 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m. until 9 p.m.
Specialties: Homemade soups and desserts
Beverages: Coffees and teas, no alcohol.
Price range: Breakfast, $3 to $4.50; lunch, $3 to $5.50; dinner, $9.95 (includes beverage and dessert).
Credit cards: None accepted. Personal checks are accepted.
Reservations: Recommended, but not necessary
Other: Smoking allowed. Not handicapped-accessible.
LENGTH: Medium: 85 lines ILLUSTRATION: PHOTO: Gene Dalton. Owner Judy Osborne decorated Le Cafe Coffeeby CNB& Tea Shoppe in Victorian period furnishings.