ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Sunday, February 25, 1996 TAG: 9602280024
SECTION: HOMES PAGE: D-2 EDITION: METRO
COLUMN: Dear John
SOURCE: JOHN ARBOGAST
This is the time of year that Extension Offices get calls from homeowners asking if it is the right time to have their shade trees topped. For years, we, as well as knowledgeable arborists, have advised against this severe tree pruning practice that we call topping.
For those who might not know, topping is the name given to the drastic pruning of trees in which the upper parts of a tree's trunk and major branches are cut off back to fairly large diameter stubs.
Here are some frequently given but misguided reasons some folks still pay good money to have trees topped:
Faulty excuse No. 1: My tree needs to be topped because it will soon be growing into the power wires (could be growing too close to the house or gutters, etc.).
The reality: topping that doesn't kill the tree immediately tends to cause that tree to grow at a much faster rate than normal, meaning that the topped tree will be back close to the wires, gutters or whatever in just a few years and the decision will once again be required to do something.
Faulty excuse No. 2 : I want to get rid of the leaves; there are too many to rake up in the fall.
Reality: the leaves are what make the food for the tree through their interception of sunlight in the process of photosynthesis. Unfortunately, if the branch portions that can produce leaves are removed, the tree will not be capable of growing enough leaves the coming spring and summer to make the food to keep the tree alive; in other words, topping can cause trees to starve to death. It is true that raking leaves is a big job in the fall, but leaves are a valuable source of organic matter that can be shredded and used as soil improvers or in compost.
Faulty excuse No. 3 : My tree has grown so it is providing too much shade.
Reality: on hot summer days or when we pay the summer air-conditioning bill, we should be thankful for shade. From the tree's standpoint, the mass of leaves protect the trunk and branches from the direct rays of the sun, thus preventing scalding from heat buildup and sunburn.
Q: I was told that I should apply lime because my soil has a pH of 5.7. Do I really have to? L.L., Roanoke
A: The first question here should be what do you want to grow in that soil. If this soil is for a lawn, vegetable or flower garden or growing of nonacid-loving plants, then the answer would be YES, you should apply lime to bring that soil's pH up to around 6.5. However, if you're growing acid-loving plants, with prime examples being azaleas, rhododendrons or blueberries, then the answer is no. But do apply a small amount of agricultural sulfur or aluminum sulfate to make the soil more acidic.
Q: When should I prune my rose bushes? W.W.W., Roanoke
A: Everblooming, bush-type roses should be pruned in early spring, just as the new growth is emerging from the dormant canes. The presence or absence of green shoots at that time tells us the extent of winter damage, if any, which indicates which parts should be removed entirely in the spring pruning. Also, the presence of upper shoots at that time allows the rose grower to reduce cane height to just above an outward-pointing shoot on each strong cane, meaning that the spring growth and rose blooms will occur on the outside of the rose bush rather than in toward the bush center.
Send short questions about your lawn, garden, plants, or insects to Dear John, c/o The Roanoke Times, P.O. Box 2491, Roanoke, Va. 24010-2491. We need your mail, but this column can't reply to all letters. Those of wide appeal will be answered during the weeks that the subject is timely. Personal replies cannot be given. Please don't send stamps, stamped envelopes, samples, or pictures.
Gardener's checklist
Jobs for late February and early March:
The only preferred time of year to move existing dogwoods and magnolias that you would like to transplant sometime is in late winter or early spring; resist the urge to fertilize your bluegrass or fescue lawn at this time of year; resume monthly fertilizing of indoor plants when the days are getting longer, the sunlight brighter, and new growth is appearing; seed pepper plants now to set out in the vegetable garden or border in May.
LENGTH: Medium: 81 linesby CNB