ROANOKE TIMES
Copyright (c) 1996, Roanoke Times
DATE: Wednesday, May 22, 1996 TAG: 9605220007
SECTION: EXTRA PAGE: 8 EDITION: METRO
COLUMN: the wine list
SOURCE: BETH CRITTENDEN
Rising temperatures usually mean an increase in white wine sales, and with good reason. A cool, refreshing glass is just the thing for a warm day. But savvy wine enthusiasts will agree that whites are not the only option for the season. Lighter style red wines can be perfect summer sippers with anything from barbecued ribs to heavier salads.
A good rule of thumb for summer reds is to choose wines with noticeable fruit character, medium to light body, moderate tannins and lower alcohol, usually under 13 percent. Chewy California Cabernet Sauvignons, earthy robust red Rhine wines and big, high-alcohol Zinfandels are generally too heavy and thick for a warm evening.
Another key to its enjoyment is to serve the red wine at cellar temperature, between about 55 and 60 degrees. Red wine served too warm can emphasize the alcohol and lose the concentration of fruit, making for an unappetizing, hot-tasting drink. If you don't have a cellar, pop the wine in the refrigerator for 20 minutes to give it a slight chill.
Red wines come from around the world: light-bodied Merlot from Australia; young, fruity Pinot Noir and Gamay from Oregon and California; Beaujolais from the French region by the same name; young Riojas from Spain and some French Vin de Pays and Southern Rhone blends. When choosing these wines, look for recent vintages, since they are often made for fresh, immediate consumption. Save the older vintages and bigger wines for fall and winter.
Terrific summer red wine matches include grilled marinated steak with a French Rhone-style blend of Grenache and Syrah. Or, slice leftover steak and serve it cold on top of mixed greens and sun-dried tomatoes drizzled with olive oil and paired with a light, fruity Merlot. Grilled eggplant and Portabello mushrooms or grilled salmon, tuna, swordfish or chicken hold up nicely to an Oregon Pinot Noir.
Dry Rose from France is another delightful summer wine. Its lovely pink color fools many Americans into thinking it is a sweet, French "White Zinfandel." But Dry Rose, usually from the South of France or Southern Rhone, has nothing to do with our American counterpart. Usually made from the red grapes Grenache, Syrah or Pinot Noir, it is bone dry, crisp and refreshing with underlying backbone and elegance. Although not easy to find in this area, it's worth the effort. French bistro food is made for Rose. I've sipped it with cold quiche and warm roast chicken, and you can't beat its warm-weather appeal.
If you're looking to white wines, temporarily shelve the heavy Chardonnays in favor of lighter ones without the oak fermentation. Sauvignon Blancs and Dry Rieslings are made for warm weather, so take advantage of their fresh, crisp fruitiness with light salads, cold soups and grilled chicken and light meats or fish. The Thai Salad recipe in today's food section can be paired with an Alsatian-style dry Gewurztraminer, Riesling or Pinot Gris, or try it with the French Rose. One of my favorite summer classics is a crisp Sauvignon Blanc with grilled halibut, brushed with a marinade of olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and dill.
If you'd like to try other warm weather match-ups, the Roanoke Valley Wine Society is hosting its Spring Wine Dinner Thursday at 7 p.m. at Salem's Hidden Valley Country Club. The dinner costs $27 per person, inclusive, and will feature the wines of Oregon's Oak Knoll Winery matched to a Pacific Northwest menu. For reservations, call Hidden Valley Country Club by this evening at 389-8146.
Cheers!
THE WINE LIST runs once a month in the Extra section. Beth Crittenden is a local wine wholesaler, wine educator and founder of the Roanoke Valley Wine Society, which meets for wine-tasting programs on the fourth Thursday of each month. If you have a wine-related question, or would like more information on the society, call 992-3285.
WARM-WEATHER WINES:
Duck Pond Pinot Noir, 1994 - $10
Clos du Petite Bellane Rose, 1994 - $9
Domaine Richeume Rose de Provence, 1995 - $12
Penfolds Semillon-Chardonnay, 1995 - $9
Chateau Souverain Sauvignon Blanc, 1994 - $9
Columbia Crest Johannesberg Riesling, 1994 - $7
LENGTH: Medium: 87 linesby CNB