ROANOKE TIMES 
                      Copyright (c) 1997, Roanoke Times

DATE: Wednesday, February 26, 1997           TAG: 9702260027
SECTION: EXTRA                    PAGE: 8    EDITION: METRO 


YOUR COOKING QUERIES ASKED AND ANSWERED

It has been sagely said that the only stupid question is one that goes unasked. That as aptly applies to queries about cooking as to any other subject.

Here are a few commonly asked questions and their answers.

Q: What is the difference between cake flour and regular flour?

A: All-purpose flour is a blend of hard and soft wheats and has a higher gluten content than cake flour. Cake flour, which is milled from a soft wheat, has a finer texture and a lower gluten content. Gluten develops when the proteins in flour are mixed with liquid and provides elasticity to a batter or dough. When making bread dough, the object is to fully develop the gluten in the flour to provide structure and character to the bread. Just the opposite is true with cake, muffin or quick-bread recipes where too much gluten will toughen the finished product. Many cake recipes call for all-purpose flour, but those that suggest cake flour do so for a reason. Generally, this cake should have a light, delicate texture when baked.

If you run out of cake flour, use all-purpose flour but substitute 2 tablespoons cornstarch for 2 tablespoons flour in every cup. When substituting cake flour for all-purpose flour, use 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons cake flour for every cup of flour called for in the recipe.

Q: How do you cook rice to keep it from sticking?

A: Don't lift the lid during cooking, and use a proper water to rice ratio, about 21/2:1.

Q: What can you tell me about using unglazed clay flowerpots?

A: Lead, a toxic metal, is found in unglazed pottery, such as the flowerpots some cooks bake in, and in some crystal, cracked china, and in the glazes on many imported hand-painted serving pieces.

Audrey Norman, Palm Beach County, Fla., home extension agent, warns cooks to avoid storing foods in those dishes and avoid serving high-acid foods (tomatoes, citrus) in them. They shouldn't be used in microwave ovens, either.

Most white china, clear glass serving ware, and stoneware are safer than hand-painted or highly decorated china, and new china of any sort is safer than old china.

Q: What kind of salt should be used in baking?

A: Common table salt is the preferred salt for baking, with one exception: If you are making foccaccia or pretzels, you would substitute kosher or coarse salt, because the large grains tend to stick to the top of the dough rather than bake into it.

A bit of salt may seem unnecessary in a dessert recipe that is essentially sweet. But salt enhances flavors, particularly chocolate, and adds a slight counterpoint to sugar or other sweeteners.

Q: Why did my cookies spread while baking?

A: There are a few reasons. Make sure that baking sheets are cooled between batches. The dough may be too soft. Try refrigerating it until firm or add a tablespoon of flour to thicken the dough.

With so many butter and margarine products available, choosing the right one for baking is confusing. Products labeled light, low-fat, reduced-fat or fat-free are not suitable for baking because they contain more water than fat.

Q: What is the best way to store rustic breads from the bakery?

A: Crusty, dense rustic breads are best left out of the fridge, said Matthew Gold, owner of The Bread Baker in Boca Raton, Fla. ``It's not Wonder Bread, it won't stay two weeks in the refrigerator,'' he said.

Gold said that's because breads from bakeries such as his usually contain no preservatives. The crust keeps the moisture in, however. ``That's why you don't want to slice it until you need it,'' he said.

But the bread keeps very well on the counter or for longer storage, in the freezer, Gold said. ``You can refresh the bread by popping it in the oven at 350,F for a few minutes; it will be almost as good as the day you bought it.''

Keep breads tightly wrapped in waxed bags or in plastic and avoid storing them near heat.

Q: Should I bake with salted or unsalted butter?

A: Professional chefs prefer unsalted butter because they believe it is a fresher-tasting product. Either, however, can be used in baking.

Q: Do dried pasta or egg noodles go bad?

A: According to Cecelia Leavitt of the National Pasta Association in Arlington, dried pasta in its original sealed packaging will last on the shelf for up to three years.

``For egg noodles, it's slightly less - about two years,'' she said.

One of the drawbacks of keeping pasta for long periods is that it could pick up odors from surrounding foods or even the cabinet in which it's stored, Leavitt said.

``I personally take it out of the box and put it into a sealed jar or bag.''

Q: Are dark pans best for baking? Can I use glass pans?

A: Shiny, heavy aluminum or steel pans are best for baking. These dull metals absorb the heat evenly and well. Dark pans tend to overbrown and toughen the outer ``crust'' of baked goods. Glass pans can be used in baking, although oven temperature should be reduced by 25 degrees.

Q: Can aluminum pots and pans cause Alzheimer's?

A: This question comes up frequently. Teresa Johnson of the Alzheimer's Association in Chicago answers, ``Researchers have made no definite connection between aluminum and Alzheimer's disease.''

Aluminum does discolor, however, when used with acidic foods, and certain foods such as bread starters and yogurt starters shouldn't be mixed in aluminum pans because a chemical reaction will cause the starters to fail.

Q: Where should I place pans in the oven?

A: Probably the most even heat will be found in the center of the oven. Heat rises, so the top of the oven generally is the hottest. Position racks in the center of the oven.

If you are trying to bake two cookie sheets at once, put one rack in the center and another on top of it. Make sure the pans are in the center of the rack to allow heat to circulate around them. Check the pans halfway through the baking time. If the cookies on the top rack are browning too quickly, reverse the two baking sheets.

Q: Do condiments that have vinegar in them, such as ketchup, spoil?

A: Ronald Schmidt, food scientist at the University of Florida, said, ``I've tasted some pretty funky ketchup. You probably don't get microbial spoilage as much as flavor deterioration.''

Deb Magnus of Heinz said vinegar will last forever. Ketchup really doesn't spoil, but the acid in the tomatoes breaks down and contact with the air causes the ketchup to darken and creates an off flavor. ``It's still safe to eat, but the quality will not be the same,'' she said.

Storing ketchup and other condiments in the refrigerator after they're opened is a good idea, she said.

- THE WASHINGTON POST, JAN NORRIS OF THE PALM BEACH POST AND LINDA GIUC OF THE HARTFORD COURANT CONTRIBUTED TO THIS STORY.


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