THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: SUNDAY, June 26, 1994 TAG: 9406230159
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 18 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY MARGARET TALEV, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: 940626 LENGTH: RODANTHE
Wild scents from exotic meats rising in smokey clouds off the barbie; heretofore unsampled culinary delights; strange sizzling and popping sounds emanating from a foreign kitchen where leather-skinned cooks from the Outback would prepare dinner using knives drawn from sheaths at their sides.
{REST} For the adventurous American who has traveled several hours to reach Nags Head, a half-hour drive to Hatteras seemed worthwhile to bridge continents.
My imagination had been warped by too many viewings of ``Crocodile Dundee,'' too many sessions with Men at Work music tapes.
And to an extent, that's what owners Sheila and Brent Skiperdene were counting on to attract customers when they opened Down Under in 1991.
The Skiperdenes chose the name to draw clientele during a time when everything Aussie was in, but decided to ``stick with American food'' in case the trend cooled, Sheila Skiperdene said. ``A lot of the American food is similar to Australian food.''
They decorated their establishment with posters of movie hero Dundee, Fosters lager T-shirts and other paraphernalia Americans tend to associate with Australia.
They titled American favorites with catchy names: The Sydney Skyscraper, named after the seaport in southeastern Australia, is a doubledecker BLT. The INXS platter, which makes reference to the Australian rock band, provides a plate of fish, shrimp, scallops, fried oysters and crabcake in excess of what most eaters could consume at a sitting.
While Brent is from Newcastle, Australia, his wife is a North Carolinian, from Greenville. But she lived in Australia for a time, and sounds like an Aussie herself.
The food at Down Under is not bad. But for the most part, it's like scores of other restaurants that dot the Outer Banks.
The only selections that are undeniably Australian are the vegemite sandwich ($1.75) made from a yeast extract, and the The Great Australian Bite, a sandwich with grilled ground beef, melted cheese, grilled onions, lettuce, tomato and fried egg.
Sliced beets would make the Bite more authentic, Sheila admitted, but she said ``most Americans won't eats beets.'' And because the vegetables are perishable, Down Under doesn't stock any for the American who wants to try the sandwich the way it should be served.
Ignore the biscuits served before the food arrives. For appetizers, try the Great Barrier Reef Gumbo, made on the premises. A spicy tomato base holds the shrimp and bits of fish nicely. The clam chowder is nothing special.
For dinner, we ordered the Down Under Shrimp ($11.50), the Rodanthe Stuffed Shrimp ($12.25) and the Cajun Softshells ($11.50).
Although a bit tough, the Down Under Shrimp - jumbos stuffed with cream cheese and jalapeno, wrapped in bacon and broiled - was delicious. The shrimp absorbed the jalapeno, and still the pepper enhanced rather than overpowered. The cream cheese was fluffy.
The Rodanthe Stuffed Shrimp - stuffed with crab imperial and broiled in lemon, pepper and butter - was simple and pleasant. The shrimp, however, were not jumbo-sized as the menu promised.
Diners with a hankering for softshells would do better to order them without pasta, as the accompanying tomato sauce was pasty and mediocre.
The softshells themselves were superb: sweet, juicy and free of the bits of shell that can stick the throat. After I ordered the Cajun Pasta, however, I was disappointed to find my crabs had been breaded and fried, rather than sauteed as I had requested. What resulted was more reminiscent of chicken parmesan than a seafood dish.
On the subject of chicken, it should be noted that the Down Under had run out of chicken breast, making unavailable the peanut chicken and other dishes that the owners ordinarily recommend.
The green beans which accompanied the entrees were delicious.
The Outback Oscar - ribeye steak accompanied by backfin crabmeat and cream sauce with asparagus - is a good option for the meat lover. Aside from the vegemite, salads and fried foods, vegetarians may want to try their luck with the veggie burger with sweet chili sauce.
Dessert selections, which include key lime and chocolate chip pecan pie, are fresh and decadent. Down Under orders these from Sweet Street.
Inside Down Under, the atmosphere is relaxed, roomy and extremely casual. Service is American and friendly. The structure, inside and out, is wooden. Shells, hanging wine racks, surfboards and an upright piano decorate the large dining room.
Kids will love the Down Under for its fried food - sweet, crunchy hushpuppies, crinkle-cut fries, six variations of the grilled cheese sandwich and a separate children's menu.
The foot- and half-foot-high onion rings may bridge the gap between young and old. Fried in a traditional batter that seals the onion slices, the rings are stacked atop a plastic green dish with compartments for ketchup, honey mustard and ranch dressing.
Parents will thank Down Under for the practical: plastic, coral-tinted tablecloths that won't hold embarrassing spills, and spacious round and square tables that can seat 12 easily. Smaller tables are available for smaller parties. And, although smoking is allowed at every table, non-smokers may appreciate good circulation, which keeps air fresh and clean.
Beer and wine are available, and a lounge, open from 3 p.m. until after the kitchen closes, invites a young crowd. During the summer, breakfast is served from 7 to 11:30 a.m. Again, aside from the toast and vegemite (50 cents), the fare is American.
The lack of Australian offerings may disappoint diners who choose a restaurant called Down Under expecting exotic fare.
by CNB