THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, October 30, 1994 TAG: 9411010508
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F2 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY BROWN H. CARPENTER, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Medium: 94 lines
DARRYL'S RESTAURANT and Bar is the perfect place if you're really hungry and need a mood uplift.
The two-story building on North Military Highway, just west of Norfolk's Janaf Shopping Plaza, is abuzz with good cheer and just enough crowd and conversation to boost your spirits.
The menu is geared to taming the biggest appetite.
The Darryl's concept - hearty, simple fare; busy decor, and fast, informal service - is similar to that of Tobacco Company in Richmond's Shockoe Slip district, a popular forerunner to the eclectic, razzle-dazzle chain theme.
At our upstairs table, we gazed upon an old gas pump in a nearby corner and push-pedal toy cars hanging from the ceiling as well as the chatty crowd at the bar below.
Railings and grilles mark the border of the balcony-like second floor. You'll dine with piped music, but it's real stuff - rock, jazz, country - not Muzak. And the volume is turned up to be pleasant, not noisy.
The Darryl's management is fastidious about such details, which makes dining at the restaurants a lot of fun. The french fries are just crisp enough. The beef is cooked to your precise instructions. Servers are efficient and friendly.
The one glitch we experienced when our party of three visited one Saturday night was a forgotten dessert order. Our waitress apologized profusely, brought it quickly and refused to put it on the bill.
For appetizers, we ordered Stuffed Mushrooms ($5.99) and Artichoke & Spinach Dip ($3.99). The mushrooms, a traditional appetizer, were excellent; the dip was good, too, but not much artichoke flavor was apparent.
The main entrees, dominated by beef, pork, shrimp and chicken, are not for the Jenny Craig crowd. Instead, be prepared to loosen your belt a notch.
We tried the Cajun Fried Shrimp ($10.99), Barbecued Pork Ribs ($9.99 for a half slab) and Prime Rib ($12.99).
The shrimp, though small, were plentiful, tender and juicy in their crisp coating. Two sauces, a cocktail and a Cajun mustard, accompanied the crustaceans.
The meaty ribs were slathered with a zesty house sauce and served with Southwest-flavored baked beans and coleslaw.
The Prime Rib was requested rare and proved to be as pink as a sunset and as tender as tofu. The quality of the meat perhaps stems from the chain's headquarters' location in Kansas City, Mo.
Another nice touch by Darryl's is offering a Caesar salad with each entree.
The daring soul might try the Apple-Peach Chutney as a veggie choice. It has a touch of cumin in it.
If you're really unconcerned about calories, try the restaurant's Twice Baked ``Smashed'' Potatoes. The spuds are cooked with bacon bits, Old English cheese, butter, sour cream and scallions, then baked again under a crust of melted Old English cheese.
They're 99 cents extra but the dish can easily be split among three (or more) patrons.
The aforementioned dessert was well worth the wait. The Cappuccino Cake is a gargantuan chocolate-coffee conglomeration that can easily be divided among four diners. In fact, only a glutton could eat it alone. It cost $$3.79.
An official with Gilbert/Robinson Restaurants, the chain's owners, said a menu change is coming to the Norfolk unit next March. The emphasis will be on ``Southern comfort food,'' she said, but many of the favorites on the current bill of fare will be retained.
The crowd at Darryl's was mostly an adult one this particular evening, but the kiddie menu has an array of entrees - hot dogs, burgers, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches - for just $3.79. And that includes a beverage and a scoop of ice cream for dessert.
In short, Darryl's is an enjoyable dining experience, a top-of-the-line chain restaurant. ILLUSTRATION: Photo
ROY A. BAHLS
Darryl, with its eclectic decor, is a good place to go to lift your
spirits.
Graphic
CHAIN REACTION
Darryl's Restaurant & Bar: 1020 N. Military Highway, Norfolk,
466-1930.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to
midnight Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday.
Prices: Main entries, $7.99 to $12.99; combo plates, $10.99 to
$13.99; soup and salad, $4.99 to $5.99; pasta dishes, $8.29 to
$9.99; quiches, $5.99; sandwich meals, $5.49 to $6.99.
Owned By: Gilbert/Robinson Restaurants Inc., Kansas City, Mo.,
which has 30 restaurants, mostly in the Southeast. The two units in
Hampton Roads are in Norfolk and Hampton.
by CNB