THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, November 27, 1994 TAG: 9412020801
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: Chain Reaction
TYPE: Restaurant Review
SOURCE: BY BROWN H. CARPENTER, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Medium: 70 lines
WITH ITS uncomplicated decor and menu, Spinnaker's Restaurant is conveniently situated just off the fast-food court on the second floor of Lynnhaven Mall.
It's ideal for shoppers who don't feel like standing in line for tacos or pizza slices and then hunting down a table. Spinnaker's serves meals that won't confuse the palate or threaten the bank account.
Children are welcomed with crayons and a coloring mat. If toddlers become agitated, just take them on a stroll in the mall till the food comes.
Spinnaker's occupies two floors, both with easy access to shopping. You also can enter from the parking lot near the mall's main entrance.
We can attest to the kid-friendliness; our party of five included a 2-year-old.
Shoppers generally aren't interested in complex cuisine, especially at this time of year. And Spinnaker's is content to stay about two notches above the get-it-at-the-counter fare sold in the mall food court.
Offerings include fancy sandwiches, low-cal salads, kebabs and pasta dishes.
One theme running through the menu is Cajun: The hot Louisiana seasoning is offered on fried shrimp, chicken sandwiches, a chicken pasta entree, chicken omelets and blackened prime rib.
We started with Cajun bite-size shrimp ($4.99), which were tender and seasoned with heat. The appetizer easily can satisfy four.
The chips and salsa ($1.99) was disappointing: there wasn't much of it, and it lacked pizazz.
The 2-year-old ate half of his chicken fingers and fries; it was a lot of food. Kids' entrees range from $1.99 for a grilled-cheese sandwich to $3.99 for the fingers and fries.
The adults ordered Southwestern salad ($6.49), Sizzle Steak ($8.99), Cajun chicken pasta ($7.49) and beef kebab ($9.49).
The salad consists of fajita-style chicken with mushrooms, avocados and other raw vegetables on lettuce. It's a good choice if you're a little bit hungry or watching calories.
The Sizzle Steak is a marinated sirloin, rolled in hot spices and served hot over a bed of peppers and onions. The seasonings come on strong, but they grow on you. This steak is for big appetites.
The meat in the grilled beef kebab was nicely tenderized with teriyaki marinade and served on a skewer with fresh vegetables. This entree got high marks.
The Cajun chicken pasta also passed muster. The spices don't overwhelm. The chicken strips are grilled and accompanied by spinach fettuccine in a light cream sauce.
The dessert list emphasizes rich pies with only one chocolate item, Kahlua brownie pie ($2.99), which was one of our two choices. It was big and gooey. The Key lime pie ($2.99) was both sweet and tart, making it a good complement to the rich chocolate.
Spinnaker's also offers a Sunday brunch featuring omelets, eggs Benedict and other morning fare, from $4.99 to $6.99 per entree. MEMO: Chain Reaction is a biweekly review of chain restaurants with outlets in
Hampton Roads. Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a
party of two or three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot and
The Ledger-Star pay for the reviewer's meal and those of the guests. ILLUSTRATION: Color photo by Roy Bahls
Spinnaker's Restaurant features an uncomplicated decor - and menu.
by CNB