THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1994, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, December 22, 1994 TAG: 9412210009
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: By BETTY DOUGLASS, SPECIAL TO FLAVOR
LENGTH: Medium: 75 lines
IF YOU'RE LOOKING for a special meal to celebrate the holidays, consider a Victorian feast.
The era that ended nearly 100 years ago - coinciding with the reign of England's Queen Victoria - was characterized by ornate design, flowery carvings and elegance.
Think Charles Dickens. Roasted goose. Plum pudding.
The Victorian era was about ``romance and refinement, about art and design, about fancy parties and lavish feasts,'' says cookbook author Michael McLaughlin, in the December issue of Bon Appetit magazine.
``The Victorians practically invented Christmas as we know it,'' McLaughlin says. ``Many of the traditions and decorations and foods we associate with the season come from this era.''
Eggnog, wassail and chestnuts on a fire all date to Victoria's reign. Long, many-coursed meals were served amid elegant table-settings and centerpieces with candles.
Families joined for lavish feasts topped by rich desserts.
But, says McLaughlin: ``To reproduce a Victorian multicourse celebration would be madness for a contemporary cook.''
So I've combined the pleasures of the late 19th century with the convenience of the late 20th, to create a memorable but practical Christmas dinner.
I built my four-course meal around McLaughlin's entree of Roasted Goose With Port-Thyme Gravy.
McLaughlin tells how to eliminate much fat from the goose, leaving a nice lean meat under the crisp skin. Make a quick stuffing and roll it in balls to bake and serve around the goose.
Pumpkin and Apple Soup, the first course, is served with fresh lump crabmeat. Because the soup relies on canned apple juice and canned pumpkin, it's easy to prepare anytime, or in advance.
Serve Mini Cornmeal-Zucchini Muffins for a special touch. They're from a mix, and you can make them ahead and freeze them.
Mashed Rutabagas and Potatoes combines flavorful root vegetables for a smooth, mellow mixture.
Brussels sprouts cooked with peppers and red onions make a tasty and colorful side dish. The recipe can be prepared early, then baked about 20 minutes before serving.
In the Victorian era, cheese and nuts typically were served after elegant feasts. Here, I have included cheese and nuts in a salad that's served after the entree.
Simply combine Belgian endive with radicchio in a light vinaigrette, topped with Stilton cheese and boiled chestnuts or walnuts.
Plum pudding is, perhaps, the dessert most often associated Victorian feasts. Made of suet, dried currants, raisins, almonds and spices, and served with brandy or rum and hard sauce, the pudding isn't always a favorite at today's dinner table.
So I prepared a delightful Chocolate-Bing Cherry Trifle that starts with an easy-to-make chocolate angel-food cake. The filling is made of canned, dark sweet pitted cherries, liqueur, currant jelly and dried cherries, along with a custard flavored with white chocolate. A whipped-cream topping is flavored with unsweetened cocoa.
For a lighter dessert, try Poached Oranges With Anise, served plain or with a Christmas cookie.
If you plan to prepare a goose, you'll need time to defrost it, so shop now. Some supermarkets stock geese; or check with your butcher.
Then unpack your silver and prettiest china. Decorate in the Victorian style, and make a memorable holiday feast. ILLUSTRATION: JOSEPH JOHN KOTLOWSKI/Staff color photos
The menu, buit around roasted goose, recalls the lavish meals that
were popular during the reign of Queen Victoria.
by CNB