THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, January 1, 1995 TAG: 9501040574
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F6 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: Medium: 100 lines
ENTERED THROUGH the polished, spacious lobby of the Omni Hotel at Waterside, the Riverwalk restaurant is comfortably but casually chic; you don't need to dress up.
Attractive details complement the views of the Elizabeth River - white linens and bright green napkins, sleek black chairs with just enough cushion for comfortable seating, and ceiling fans made whimsical with rows of neon light.
Chef David Lapinski, formerly of the Cavalier Yacht and Country Club, took over the kitchen in October 1993, emphasizing regional specialties like she-crab soup and littleneck clams, recognizing the popularity of meat with several beef and pork dishes, and offering dinner salads for lighter appetites. Under new management, the hotel has brought back Sunday brunch, but on a moderate scale as opposed to the extravaganza that characterized the Omni when it opened more than a decade ago. On a chilly December Saturday, our party of five found many items to be pleasantly warming.
We don't know who dubbed this crab soup the best in Norfolk, as the menu claims, but it was a worthy version with sufficient crab and not too much thickening. A well-seasoned breading surrounded exceptionally tender fried calamari. Most intriguing among the appetizers was the beautifully presented phyllo pastry purse. Never mind that the pastry was as doughy within as it was crisp without; the stuffing of blue cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and roasted garlic was an excellent blend, and pieces of portabella mushroom and fried leeks made an exquisite complement. We wished there had been more. Other options were clams, oysters and a barbecued shrimp quesadilla.
With a nod to lighter appetites, the Riverwalk offered several dinner salads. One was Caesar with chicken or salmon; another was Chinese chicken salad with peanuts and hoisin dressing. We sampled the international models. Grilled sea scallops Caribbean-style had plenty of greenery and a tangy fruit salsa with fizzly-flavored mandarin oranges. Best were the scallops themselves and the crunchy sweet potato threads sprinkled on top. Better altogether was the Mediterranean salad of tender baby spinach leaves, paper-thin slices of roasted eggplant and a sprinkling of feta cheese; in contrast to the quality of those ingredients, the baby shrimp were watery and the olives apparently from a can rather than from the Mediterranean.
From the main entree list, black-and-white angel hair pasta, lightly sauced with butter and white wine and tossed with scallops and shrimp, was as tasty as it was colorful. Here the chef's skill shone. A topping of blue cheese, tomata concasse and leeks was subtle enough not to overpower a satisfying filet mignon that arrived exactly as we ordered it, medium rare. Baked apple slices and a fruity glaze were excellent complements to a generous portion of pork loin slices that were unfortunately rather dry. And orange pecan chicken - actually flavorful lean breasts rolled around a rosemary-flavored bread stuffing and blanketed with a light cream sauce - was quite pleasant but presented no discernable fruit flavors or nuts.
Except for outstanding breads from the Baker's Crust and a fine a la carte dinner salad of baby lettuces, accompaniments were disappointing. Commercial-style vegetable mix and standard store variety russet fries did an injustice to the dinners. Although the menu listed a choice of starch with dinners, two among us were not offered any options.
Once famous for its elaborate desserts, the Riverwalk now offers mostly routine cakes and pies. Only the white chocolate cheesecake had any special distinction, although the carrot cake was fresh-tasting and the chocolate cake satisfactory.
Our server dealt with us graciously; a party of a dozen people in the slightly elevated semiprivate section against the back wall also seemed to be receiving excellent attention. Visitors to Norfolk and large parties will be well served by the Riverwalk's low-key atmosphere, its well-trained staff and the extensive banquet facilities. And the adjacent lobby lounge is a lovely place to meet before or after dinner. MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, anonymous visit by a party of four,
unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star pay for
the reviewer's meal and those of the guests. ILLUSTRATION: Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Riverwalk
Omni Waterside Hotel,
777 Waterside Drive, Norfolk; phone 622-2868
Cuisine: Weekday lunch buffet, Sunday brunch buffet, and a la
carte dinner menu with a regional emphasis on seafood and beef plus
some chicken and pork; large dinner salads.
Atmosphere: Upscale casual with white tablecloths, bright light
and a view of the Elizabeth River.
Prices: Breakfast from $4.95 to $9.95; lunch a la carte from
$3.95 to $8.95, weekday buffet $6.95; Sunday brunch buffet $9.95;
dinner starters, soups and salads from $2.95 to $5.25; main courses
from $7.95 to $18.95; desserts from $3.50 to $3.75; children's menu,
$1.99.
Hours: Breakfast from 6:30 to 11 a.m. Monday through Friday, from
7 a.m. to noon Saturday and Sunday; lunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Monday through Friday, noon to 2 p.m. Saturday; brunch from 11:30
a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday; dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through
Thursday, from 5 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Reservations: Recommended.
Smoking: 15 to 20 percent of seating.
by CNB