THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, February 5, 1995 TAG: 9502070486
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY BROWN H. CARPENTER, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Medium: 89 lines
YOU KNOW they're serious about beef at the Lone Star Steakhouse & Saloon when they set the tables. The knives are heavy, serrated and sharp.
Americans may be talking about healthful meals, but they're seeing lots of red - as in steak.
The Lynnhaven Lone Star, which opened in December 1991, is one of several steak restaurants to arrive in Hampton Roads in recent years.
The Lone Star chain is headquartered in Wichita, Kans., but its theme is Texas. The motif is of a dimly lighted Southwest saloon, with wooden floors and a big bar along one wall.
Peanut shells litter the floor, put there by diners snacking on buckets of salted goobers while awaiting a table on crowded evenings.
Country and western music emanates from the sound system. Long-neck bottles of beer are the beverages of choice; there's no extensive wine list.
One recent Saturday night, our party of three waited about 45 minutes for a table. Weekend diners be forewarned: The Lone Star doesn't accept reservations.
The menu is not complicated. Five tried-and-true steak entrees - filet, Delmonico, ribeye, New York strip and T-bone - dominate the bill of fare. Beefeaters may also pick a beef kebab or chopped steak.
The biggest steak is the 20-ounce T-bone at $17.95. The rest of the menu consists of baby-back ribs, pork chops, salmon and chicken and various combo platters. Most of the people we saw, however, were dining on steaks.
A fresh garden salad and choice of sweet potato, baked potato or french fries accompany all entrees. Both greens and spuds were prepared to perfection. Sauteed mushrooms ($1.95) and sauteed onions ($1.45), both traditional with steak, are extra.
We began with a couple of appetizers, Lone Star Chili ($1.95 per cup) and chicken-pot-pie soup, a special ($1.50). The chili, a hamburger and tomato concoction, wasn't spicy, despite the jalapeno resting in the bowl. The soup was solid comfort food.
But we wanted to sink our teeth into the entrees.
We ordered Rosita's Filet, a 9-ounce serving ($14.95); an 11-ounce New York strip ($14.95) and the chicken kebab ($9.95). Nothing brought to our table evoked complaints.
The filet was tender, cooked to our medium-rare specifications, and wrapped in bacon.
The New York strip was more tasty than the filet. It required little seasoning.
The chicken kebab, with onions, peppers, mushrooms and tomatoes, was tasty. A bit more marinade might have improved it.
Children's menu items range from $2.95 to $4.95 and include chicken, ribs and hamburger. For older kids, the Lone Star has a $7.95 steak meal.
Just two desserts appear on the menu: homemade cobbler a la mode and a hot fudge brownie with ice cream ($2.95 each). We were too full to sample them and settled for coffee. We suspect we weren't the only ones. MEMO: Brown Carpenter reviews chain restaurants with stores in Hampton Roads.
Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of two or
three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star
pay for the reviewer's meal and those of the guests.
ILLUSTRATION: ROY A. BAHLS COLOR PHOTOS
The biggest steak is the 20-ounce T-bone at $17.95. A salad and
choice of potato accompany all entrees.
Graphic
CHAIN REACTION
Lone Star Steakhouse & Saloon: outside Lynnhaven Mall, Virginia
Beach. 463-2879.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11
p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Prices: steak entrees from $8.95 for chopped to $17.95 for a
20-ounce T-bone. Combos go from $12.95 (ribs and chicken) to $17.95
(mixed grill). Nonsteak entrees from $9.95 (chicken kebab) to
$13.95 (marinated, grilled salmon). Entrees include salad and
potato. Dinner salads with meat, from $5.95 to $6.95.
Reservations: not accepted. Waits can be 30 minutes or more on
Friday and Saturday nights, particularly between 7 and 8.
Smoking: less than half the table space.
Owned by: Lone Star Steakhouses Inc., Wichita, Kans., which has
scores of outlets around the country. Three restaurants are in
Hampton Roads - one each in Virginia Beach, Chesapeake and Norfolk.
by CNB