The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Thursday, March 2, 1995                TAG: 9502280116
SECTION: NORFOLK COMPASS          PAGE: 12   EDITION: FINAL 
SOURCE: SAM MARTINETTE
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   76 lines

BRITISH CUISINE FEATURED FOR FESTIVAL

The British are coming!

By now, you probably know that next month's Azalea Festival will be presided over by a British queen, namely Polly Astor, granddaughter of Virginian-born Lady Astor, who was the first female-member of Parliament.

What you may not know is that the foods of the United Kingdom will be featured in a big way during festival week.

Wait a minute, British food? The Brits, celebrated for many fine qualities, never have been known for their culinary acumen. Kidney pie, boiled beef, and fish and chips may be fine and filling in their own way, but when I put the question of what we might expect in the way of featured foods to Anthony R. Matthews, O.B.E. - president of Food From Britain (North America), a trade organization that promotes products from the U.K. - he laughed and assured me that I would be pleasantly surprised.

``We now have more Michelin Guide four-star-rated restaurants than Italy, and 10 years ago we didn't have any,'' he said. ``Brits, before the war, never ate out. Historically, we are not restaurant-goers. There were one or two good restaurants, but most people didn't go to them.

``As you know, we had food rationing during World War II, but in our case it went on until 1956. We were bust. By the early 1960s, people were more affluent, and the new fashion was to go and eat out. But we didn't have any decent restaurants. We've had a pretty awful rap for food, and it was quite well-deserved.

``That motivated the government to start subsidizing universities and technical colleges that offered courses in culinary arts. The other factor was that we had lost the empire, which meant people like myself got involved in more sensual things, such as food, restaurants and hotels.

``We British are very arrogant people and don't like serving at table,'' he said, by way of background. ``Consequently, no one knew how to do it properly. When we joined the European Common Market, that allowed many French and Italians to come over, and our restaurants benefited tremendously from their knowledge.''

Today, Matthews said, there are a number of star chefs in the London area, and many British chefs have come to the United States to work. Brian Turner, chef/owner of Turner's Restaurant in London, will come over next month for the Azalea Festival, set for the week of April 23-30 and will help stage a number of British-style meals, including the dinner and ball at the Omni Waterside on April 29.

Among the events that will be open to the public will be a fashion show and luncheon at the Omni on April 25 and an International Trade Luncheon the next day. I'm told we can expect British specialities on the menu at the Omni that week, and the details are being worked out for other public and private activities. We should expect some cooking demonstrations and the promotion of British products, such as cheese and beers, so keep a stiff upper lip, and I'll have more later.

``We plan to expand the entire scope of the festival,'' added Anne Lankford, who is catering this year's event. ``We'll offer more educational events and delve more into areas of British culture, from economic development to architecture and food. We think Food From Britain will take a very high profile.''

For information on the 42nd annual Azalea Festival and related events, call the Hampton Roads Chamber of Commerce, 622-2312.

Back here in the former first colony, food and wine always has been of interest, so you may want to ferry across the Elizabeth to The Max Restaurant in Portsmouth (425 Water Street) for this weekend's Virginia Incredible Edibles, a two-day showcase of Virginia products, from Rowena's jams and jellies to Old Shenandoah soups, and including a number of Virginia wines.

Presented by Ports Events, admission is $13.50 per person and includes samples of food and wines, a souvenir wine glass and a canvas bag you may fill with Virginia products that will be on sale that day. The event will take place Friday from 5 to 9 p.m., and again in Saturday from 11 a.m. till 4 p.m. Separate admissions are required for each day. Tickets are on sale in advance only, so call Ports Events at 393-9933 for information or visit their offices at 355 Crawford Street. by CNB