THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, March 5, 1995 TAG: 9503070448
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: CHAIN REACTION<
SOURCE: BY RUTH FANTASIA, ASSISTANT TO THE FOOD EDITOR
LENGTH: Long : 103 lines
THE SOUND system appropriately was blaring Roy Orbison's ``Pretty Woman'' when we walked into Hooters.
The restaurant, after all, has a reputation for pretty women. And cold beer, hot food and big-screen TVs. The things big boys' fantasies are made of.
But - as I reminded the men in our foursome - we were there for the food.
We started with a 20-piece platter of Buffalo-style chicken wings ($7.95), which are offered in four ``degrees,'' from mild to ``3 Mile Island.'' There's also a ``Wild Wing Bar-be-cue'' flavor. We settled on ``hot.''
The wings arrived piled on a platter, alongside four prepackaged cups of blue-cheese dressing (an additional 95 cents). The promised celery was absent, but that didn't make the wings any less enjoyable. Slightly crispy and hot from the fryer, they caused a slow burn on our palates without being incendiary.
A half-pound of steamed shrimp ($7.95) came with a tangy cocktail sauce and lemon wedges. The shrimp were nicely cooked and weren't coated with an abundance of seafood seasoning.
Crab legs, clams and oysters are also on the menu. Although we didn't partake, a steaming basket of roasted oysters delivered to a nearby table looked delicious.
If you want to try a little of everything, a sampler platter ($13.95) contains wings, shrimp, crab legs and seafood salad.
Sandwiches take up a good bit of the Hooters' menu and include everything from grilled cheese ($3.95) to fish ($6.95).
A Smothered Chicken Sandwich ($6.45) included provolone, onions, green peppers, mushrooms and a fried chicken breast on a soft, warmed bun. The Philly Cheese Steak sandwich ($6.25) was identically prepared - just substitute thin beef slices for the chicken breast. Both hearty offerings were served with a small cup of potato salad. When accompanied by an order of curly fries (an extra $1.75), they make a satisfying meal for bigger appetites.
Also on the sandwich list is the Alan Kulwicki Hot Dog Platter ($3.25), named after the Hooters-sponsored race car driver who was killed in a plane crash in 1993. The oversized dog is served on a buttered and toasted bun. A cup of baked beans and a dill pickle on the side make it a platter. If you want relish, request lots of it. Mine was served with one little packet, big enough to dress a fourth of this dog.
A bowl of New England-style clam chowder ($2.95) had few clam and potato pieces and was served lukewarm with a side of prepackaged oyster crackers.
Pasta salad ($3.95) was tri-color rotelle, cucumber pieces and tomato chunks with a prepackaged cup of Italian dressing on the side.
Desserts are not listed on the menu, nor are they offered.
As to atmosphere, most of the chairs are hard, backless, bar stools.
But, we were there for the food.
Of about 100 people in the restaurant on the Saturday night we dined, only nine were women.
Waitresses were dressed in the provocative Hooters' shorts and shirt. Our waitress was attentive without being overly friendly and treated our table well. She chatted more with the men-only tables in her section, but we were never left waiting to be served.
Although Hooters offers a limited wine menu, beer is the mainstay beverage. Draft glasses come in two sizes, or you can order by the pitcher. An ample selection of domestic and imported brands satisfies most mainstream beer drinkers.
Though a cup of coffee is $10 on the menu - yes, you read that right - management says the restaurant charges $1.25, the same as for milk, sodas or iced tea.
If you're in the mood to eat with your fingers, drink a few beers and watch the big game, Hooters is a good place to go. MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of two or
three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star
pay for the reviewer's meal and those of the guests.
ILLUSTRATION: ROY A. BAHLS COLOR PHOTOS
A sampler platter of chicken wings, boiled crab legs, steamed shrimp
and seafood salad lets you try a little of each appetizer.
Hooter Girl Audrey Gust wears the outfit that has made the
food-and-beer chain famous. In the background is one of the
restaurant's big-screen TVs.
Graphic
CHAIN REACTION
Hooters, 1160 N. Military Highway, Norfolk (466-1598), and 12640
Jefferson Ave., Newport News (886-9464).
Hours: from noon to 10 p.m. Sundays; from 11 a.m. to midnight
Mondays through Thursdays; from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Fridays and
Saturdays.
Prices: Sandwiches from $3.25 to $6.95; steamed seafood from
$7.25 to $13.95; chicken wings from $4.95 for 10 pieces to $14.95
for 50 pieces. Side orders, such as fries ($1.75) and blue cheese or
ranch dressing (95 cents), are extra.
Reservations: not necessary.
Smoking: about 70 percent of the restaurant.
Owned by: Hooters of America, Atlanta, which operates or
franchises 144 restaurants across the country.
by CNB