THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, March 12, 1995 TAG: 9503130200
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: Medium: 94 lines
DINING AT Angler's Cove, on the Lynnhaven River in Virginia Beach, is lovely any time of year. Even in winter, when the riverfront deck is closed, a gas fireplace warms the cozy upper level.
Virginia Beach natives Billy and Janet Dunn opened Angler's Cove in the fall of 1993 after long-time tenant Anchor Inn moved out.
In a pleasantly simple setting with grapevines and ivy twisted around wooden beams, the restaurant offers a variety of seafood standards, chalkboard specials and Louisiana influences. On the menu, for example, are Cajun scallops and blackened fish. Jambalya is on the specials list, and a handsome crawfish decorated every seafood entree on a recent evening.
On this busy Saturday night, we waited about 15 minutes, with several other diners who also had reservations. The hostess apologized profusely for the delay, which was eased a bit by the warmth of the fireplace. Once we were seated, our red-shirted server was pleasantly helpful.
We were ready for our raw-bar opener of lightly steamed oysters and clams, well-selected beauties served with a horseradish-laden red cocktail sauce. Calamari, on the other hand, was poorly fried, the coating pasty and the squid rubbery; our waitress removed them from our table and from our bill.
Clam chowder was a better choice - a Hatteras-style version chock-full of chunky celery, potatoes and an abundance of clams. Our threesome had mixed opinions about the she-crab soup: It had a smooth texture and sufficient crab but a bit too much sherry to compete with the creamy broth.
Dinners included salads and a choice of vegetable, as well as a basket of cakey, sweet Southern cornbread and margarine (butter on request). Salads were acceptable iceberg with a few cucumbers and cherry tomatoes; blue cheese and pepper Parmesan dressings were routine, while a low-calorie raspberry vinaigrette was unpleasantly sweet. We passed on french fries and baked potato in favor of boiled red potatoes.
Unable to resist a fresh seafood platter at a riverside restaurant, we were wise to take a chance with this fried version. Flounder and scallops, for example, were lightly pan-fried so the flavors of the fish were not masked. Wonderful oysters had a thick and crusty old-fashioned breading; large shrimp had a thick batter. Only the crabcake disappointed, this one with the texture of soggy bread and little crab flavor.
A triple combo of salmon, tuna and mahi-mahi was an excellent special offering; basic broiling allowed the fish flavors to shine on their own. The menu listed four optional toppings, including crab, piccata sauce, and tomato-basil sauce, but we were satisfied with simplicity. Broccoli with a little hollandaise was a suitable side dish.
From the four pasta listings, our waitress suggested pasta Lynnhaven, a pleasing blend of crisp snow peas, sauteed cherry tomatoes, and a buttery wine-and-garlic sauce complemented by plenty of fresh shrimp and angel-hair pasta. Served with garlic toast, this dish was a good buy at $9.95.
Angler's Cove provides for non-fish eaters, with two chicken choices, steaks and other dishes such as linguine Alfredo. Children can choose from popcorn shrimp, chicken or hot-dog dinners.
Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., Angler's Cove serves brunch with seafood omelets and crepes, crabcake-eggs Benedict and French toast with Grand Marnier.
When weather allows, boaters are welcome to dock for dinner.
The Dunns plan to serve raw-bar items and steamed crabs on the deck come summer. But even on a cold winter night, Angler's Cove is a welcome addition to the seafood restaurants along the Lynnhaven. And next season, a fireplace is to warm the lower level, too. MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of four,
unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star pay for
the reviewer's meal and those of the guests. ILLUSTRATION: ROY A. BAHLS COLOR PHOTOS
Tuna Oscar, left, is grilled tuna served on a bed of rice and topped
with fresh asparagus, crab meat and hollandaise. Kim Wilson, above,
readies tables for the winter crowd, mainly locals.
Graphic
BILL OF FARE
Angler's Cove Seafood Restaurant and Grill, 2143 Vista Circle,
Virginia Beach. 496-3690.
Cuisine: Straightforward seafood, plus chalkboard specials, and a
few chicken and beef dishes.
Atmosphere: Cozy wood-paneled upper walls and ceilings, lots of
glass overlooking the Lynnhaven River; fireplaces for winter warmth.
Boaters can dock beside the deck and even be served aboard.
Prices: Starters, soups, and salads from $3.95 to $6.95;
sandwiches from $3.95 to $6.95; main dishes from $9.95 to $16.95;
Sunday brunch from $4.95 to $9.95; children's menu, $2.50.
Hours: from 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday; from 11 a.m. to
10 p.m. Saturday; from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday.
Reservations: Recommended weekends.
Smoking: 20 percent.
by CNB