THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, June 18, 1995 TAG: 9506150218
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 16 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY JEWEL BOND, CORRESPONDENT
DATELINE: MANTEO LENGTH: Medium: 85 lines
A STROLL ALONG the docks of the Pirate's Cove Marina before dinner can definitely prime my mind for seafood.
I pass rows of fishing boats, from the casual 21-foot outboard-powered to the luxurious 65-foot yacht-fishing machine, to stand transfixed as the captain of a charter boat fillets his personal catch of the day.
Seafood lovers can just imagine how those fillets are going to taste, broiled or pan-fried.
Your imagination can be satisfied a few steps away, at the Pirate's Cove Restaurant and Raw Bar.
The mounted sailfish, tuna and blue marlin in the entranceway to the upscale, second-floor eatery tells the tale: ``It's primarily seafood here, mates.''
The host and manager, Jeff Ashworth, led my husband, Bill, and me across the spacious dining room to a table for two along the far wall. Large, uncovered windows offered a panoramic view of the marina below and the Pirate's Cove Village.
A blue-and-white awning covering an outside deck provided alternative seating, so perfect for the large platters of steamed shellfish served from the raw bar.
The raw bar features clams, mussels, shrimp, snowcrab legs and oysters. Menu entrees can also be ordered at the bar. Two TV screens keep diners entertained at the bar, while soft music is piped into the main eating area. Large planters of greenery separate the dining room from the bar.
Bill and I began our meal with a half-dozen steamed oysters from the raw bar ($3.95) and Spicy Chili Crabfritters ($4.95) as appetizers. We enjoyed the crabfritters, a fried batter shaped like a flat biscuit and chock full of crab flavor. These were served with a tasty honey mustard tartar sauce. The steamed oysters were the best I have ever eaten outside my own kitchen.
Our waitress was very friendly and helpful with our dinner selections. The menu entrees all sound so wonderful that making a choice is not easy. I settled on the crab cakes ($16.95), and Bill chose the grilled swordfish ($14.95), a special for the evening.
A light herb-seasoned medley of fresh vegetables accompany all entrees. A choice of potatoes or rice is offered, but I chose the Asiago Grits, a cheese and grits dish created by Chef Ron Davidson.
Davidson, well-known on the Outer Banks from Finely Ron's, has extended the menu of Pirate's Cove standard favorites to include almost all of Finely Ron's menu. Along with the menu change comes Finely Ron's loyal followers.
``It has surprised me the people that drive all the way from Corolla to eat here. I really feel good about that.'' Davidson says.
The chef has also expanded the wine list to include selections from France, Chile and Argentina. ``We are also adding more red wine,'' he says. ``There's a definite trend toward red wine now.''
Throughout dinner, the manager and our waitress would check frequently to make sure we were enjoying ourselves. And we were. The crab cakes, mostly crab meat with just enough filler to hold them together, were delicious. Bill's swordfish, served with Szechuan shrimp butter - another specialty of Davidson's - melted in our mouths. The Asiago Grits were a delightful alternative to potatoes or rice.
The waitress said the bourbon chocolate pecan pie ($3.95) was another chef's specialty . . . so Bill and I each had a slice. It was a perfect choice to end a perfect meal.
A stroll along the marina after having dinner at Pirate's Cove Restaurant is highly recommended. MEMO: PIRATE'S COVE
Where: Manteo-Nags Head Causeway.
Phone: 473-2266.
Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Dinner, 4:30 to 10 p.m.
Prices: Dinner entrees $12.95 to $18.50.
Children's Menu: $3.95 to $5.95.
Reservations: Not required.
Smoking: Allowed.
Drinks: Soft drinks, coffee, tea, imported and domestic beers,
wines.
Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard
Accessibility: Handicapped accessible ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON
Fans of chef Ron Davidson have followed him from Finely Ron's in
Corolla to Pirate's Cove Restaurant and Raw Bar.
by CNB