THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, July 16, 1995 TAG: 9507130014
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant Review
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: Medium: 99 lines
AN ENORMOUS OPEN kitchen in back, and a long black bar overhung with a painted California street scene help set the mood at the California Cafe in Virginia Beach.
Trim black furnishings, teal carpet, framed prints and large framed mirrors finish the picture.
The food is West Coast fusion with an Italian emphasis, under the supervision of new chef Mike Mason, formerly sous chef. The Mediterranean influence appears in the excellent mozzarella salad, the pizzas with fresh tomatoes, and the pasta with sauce Bolognese.
But West Coast eclecticism shows up in combinations like pecan-encrusted snapper with grapefruit sauce and blackened tuna quesadilla as well as in the designer pizzas with white or whole-wheat crusts.
Several visits since they opened in April have found inconsistent results.
Pizzas have been good, thin on the bottom and puffy around the edges with generous toppings (although we would have liked Mediterranean olives, not California olives, on our Mediterranean pizza). Prices for the 12-inch pies are appealing, all under $10.
But some details have changed. For example, initially all menu items were to be under $10. Already a few are as high as $13. On our first visit, warm sesame-seed bread and roast garlic was delivered to the table with our drinks; on two subsequent visits, we had to request bread. But when it arrived, it was nutty and tasty.
Appetizers and salads included the scrumptious signature grilled Caesar, a generous head of romaine with roasted garlic and peppers and a lemony dressing served warm and big enough to share. The house salad, in contrast, was a simple wedge of iceberg garnished with carrot shreds and tomato wedges; a menu description could provide guidance for diners expecting a mix of California baby lettuces or leafy Italian greens. And the gorgonzola vinaigrette tasted like bottled dressing.
Creamed oyster appetizer and fried calamari were good starters. Stuffed poblano peppers was another generous opener: two breaded peppers with a two sauces, one red and one white. These were good surroundings, but the filling of mozzarella and ricotta cheeses was too bland.
Free-standing lasagna was the most interesting pasta listing, not baked in advance but assembled to order. It was one of the best bargains on the menu, at $9.95 for a generous bowl with alternating stacks of the familiar flat noodles plus meat-tomato sauce, some spinach and cheese.
Blackened tuna with black bean salsa meant an overcooked tuna despite a request for medium-rare and surprisingly toothy black beans; the texture distracted from the well-balanced flavor. A decent marinated steak was overwhelmed with dark brown sauce heavy on Worcestershire flavor but nicely complemented by fried onion curls. We had better luck with the steak-and-oyster combination.
Dinners came with vegetable and a choice of mashed potatoes or pasta with oil and garlic. The fashionably clumpy potatoes had the comforting flavor of homemade; pasta aglio, however, varied. On one visit we received chopped thin noodles in a watery oil without much flavor, while another visit brought perfectly al dente angel hair in a light olive oil. Sauteed seasonal vegetables were fine, and crisply fried vegetable threads were an unusual and appetizing garnish.
Two tries of chocolate mint Napoleon brought disappointing chocolate slices sandwiching a sticky mousse-like chocolate filling surrounded by gelatinous green threads called mint sauce. Much better was a blondie brownie, a substantial chunk of pastry with vanilla ice cream and chocolate-caramel sauce. Best of all was the house specialty of an almond wafer basket with warm baked apple and caramel ginger sauce. California wines were featured, of course, on a small and moderately priced list.
Service was fine and the seating well-spaced and comfortable. Diners can sit near the open kitchen in the back or nearer the long bar in the front. The mood is comfortably casual. Some of the dishes need improvement in the quality of the ingredients and preparation; however, the pizzas and grilled Caesar are worth a return visit and Mason may bring new life to the kitchen.
MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of two or
three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot and The Ledger-Star
pay for the reviewer's meal and those of the guests.
ILLUSTRATION: [Color Photo]
ROY A. BAHLS
Offerings include Pecan Encrusted Snapper With Grapefruit Sauce, and
Grilled Romaine Caesar Salad.
BILL OF FARE
California Cafe, 313 Laskin Road, Virginia Beach, 422-5588.
Cuisine: West Coast fusion with an Italian emphasis.
Atmosphere: two large dining areas with black furnishings, teal
carpet, framed prints and mirrors - subdued.
Prices: appetizers, salads and pizza from $2.75 to $9.95; main
dishes from $7.95 to $12.95; desserts from $3.25 to $4.25;
children's half-portions (except pizzas) for half-price.
Hours: from 4 to 11 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday;
from 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Mondays.
Reservations: accepted.
Smoking: 50 percent.
by CNB