THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Friday, September 8, 1995 TAG: 9509080484
SECTION: LOCAL PAGE: B1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY STEVE STONE, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: ABOARD THE DANMARK LENGTH: Long : 125 lines
It is tough, complicated work, readying this 252-foot ship to sail by nature's breath. But after 70 days at sea, the youthful crew of the Danish tall ship Danmark has mastered the task.
They scramble into the masts, feet dancing along bouncing ropes as if they are simply mounting a set of stairs; they run breathless circles on the deck, feet pounding in unison as they work like a giant human gear pulling lines tight on both sides of the ship.
Yet, there was an extra hint of excitement in that routine Thursday as sails were sent aloft over the Elizabeth River. Cadets stole away for a few seconds at a time, grabbing cameras from hiding places and snapping pictures of aircraft carriers and a strangely shaped, gray building on the Norfolk waterfront: Nauticus.
``Not a closs? What is `closs?' '' One young Dane asked as tugs pushed his ship to pierside. Told it's all about the maritime industry, his eyes brightened. ``This I must go to.''
The Danmark, returning to Norfolk for the first time since 1989, tied up at Nauticus late Thursday morning. Aboard, an excited crew of 79 cadets, many making their first visit to the United States.
For their ship, however, this is something of a homecoming. In 1940, when the Nazi army overran Denmark, the Danmark's crew decided to stay where it was: the United States.
Many of the young cadets came of age in American homes and went on to join the Allied Forces. Meanwhile, the ship's regular crew members did what they knew best. In the four years after Pearl Harbor, the Danmark trained more than 5,000 U.S. Coast Guard officers.
With peace, the ship returned to the task it continues today, training young Danes - men and, today, women - to sail the high seas.
``They get a good education,'' said Capt. Ole P. Neilsen, 46, who is in his fifth year in command of the Danmark. ``They learn what power there is in the wind and sea.''
It's valuable knowledge, especially when sail power has given way to technology on modern vessels and it may be easy to forget that the sea is still master. ``It has never been so important to have a ship like this as it is now,'' he said.
Neilsen said many accidents on the high seas result from poor decision-making and a lack of understanding about the ocean.
On a tall ship, ``you feel the wind. You feel the seas,'' Neilsen said. The Danmark ``gives people a strong respect for nature's power.''
Yet, while the nature of sailing has not changed, the teaching of it has.
``We used to use strict discipline,'' he said. ``Today, you have self-discipline.''
That's because ``the mission has changed,'' Neilsen said. ``The way a seaman has to be today is much different from the way it was in 1933 when this ship was built. We're more concerned about the cadets and what they get out of the trip.''
Today's huge merchant ships rely heavily on technology. Crews are much smaller. And that means the responsibilities of individual crew members have increased.
They are learning that on the Danmark. And while it's sometimes harder than they expected, ``It is also better,'' said cadet Michael Rasmussen, 17, of Aarlios, Denmark.
``When you are working hard for 48 hours,'' Rasmussen said, ``you definitely think, `Oh, my God.' But when you are finally in your hammock, you think it wasn't so bad.''
Dennis Jorgensen, 19, of Nykobring Falster, Denmark, considers himself lucky, given that so few can sail the Danmark. ``Sailing is one of the greatest choices you can have.''
Only a small percentage of young sailors entering the Danish merchant marine have the benefit of the Danmark experience. The ship makes a single five-month cruise annually.
The average age of the cadets is 18; the range, 15 to 20.
While at sea, the cadets receive training in mathematics, physics, mechanical engineering, navigation, radio technique, winds and currents, meteorology and ship construction.
The cadets are known by numbers as they work. Rasmussen is No. 06, Jorgensen is No. 68, and 17-year-old Christian Pederson of Kerteminde, Denmark, is No. 35. This visit to the United States is a first for all three.
``I'm definitely excited about seeing all the fancy cars,'' Rasmussen said. ``And the girls. They promised us a tour of the beach, so that will be fun.''
What do they miss?
``Coca-Cola and beer,'' Rasmussen said. He'll find the first in ample supply in Hampton Roads, but he and fellow cadets will have a harder time availing themselves of the second in Virginia.
Pederson has an even simpler joy he misses: chewing gum. It's not allowed on ship.
None of the three comes from a seafaring family. But all profess a love of the ocean.
``It is so big, so beautiful,'' Pederson said. And it can be scary, too, he admitted. But, thus far, the Danmark has skirted any really rough seas, outpacing several hurricanes.
``I felt like a mouse with three big cats after him,'' Neilsen said. Rasmussen regrets missing out on rough sailing - a little.
``It could be fun, maybe,'' he said. ``But when we are in it . . .,'' Rasmussen shrugged; Jorgensen finished his thought: ``We would change our minds.''
The trio said they have learned much on this voyage.
Rasmussen said that having to climb into and work in Danmark's masts has helped ``overcome any fear of heights.'' Also, he's learned to deal with ``being with others in a tight group, day or night.''
Jorgensen said the close quarters poised a challenge, but he proved to himself ``that I can live with so many people in so little space and under such pressure.''
There are some rare, peaceful moments, however, even on a ship where privacy often is nothing more than a word in the dictionary.
``You lay out on the deck at night,'' Rasmussen said. ``There are no lights, no engines. Just stars.'' ILLUSTRATION: [Color Photos]
MOTOYA NAKAMURA
Staff photos
The crew aboard the 252-foot Danish tall ship Danmark pulls in the
sails as the ship docks at Nauticus Thursday.
Young cadets, ages 15-20, listen to Norfolk Mayor Paul Fraim speak
during Thursday's welcoming ceremony at Nauticus.
The Danmark will be open to the public from 2 to 4 p.m., Saturday
and Sunday at Nauticus.
by CNB