THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, September 24, 1995 TAG: 9509250236
SECTION: DAILY BREAK PAGE: E1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY LANE DEGREGORY, STAFF WRITER
LENGTH: Long : 311 lines
YOU CAN WALK on the beach barefoot now without burning your feet.
At night, you sometimes need a sweatshirt. But during the day, it's still warm enough to swim in the ocean without shivering.
Most summer visitors have gone. So seashells are scattered along the soft, shifting sands. Waterfowl, songbirds and swan are just starting to arrive for autumn.
Even local residents are beginning to surface again. Emerging from their seasonal businesses like mole crabs crawling out of the mud, they open their windows, cut back their hours and venture outside into fall's soft sunshine. Then they remember why they like living on North Carolina's barrier islands.
Autumn is the best season to enjoy the Outer Banks.
``This is definitely my favorite time of year here - always has been,'' says Alan Creech, who has lived in Kill Devil Hills since 1990. ``Heat, humidity and insects are gone. I don't have to wait in line at my favorite restaurants. Traffic's not a problem on the bridge or the bypass. Fishing is outstanding in the surf and on piers.
``The whole attitude around the Outer Banks is better in autumn,'' says Creech, who makes hammocks in Nags Head. ``People are more relaxed. Everyone's gearing down and shifting back. There's a lot more opportunity to enjoy things at slow speed now, with plenty of space and superb weather.''
The traditional tourist season on the Outer Banks began Memorial Day weekend and lasted through Labor Day. But in recent years, vacationers have begun discovering that the ``shoulder'' seasons - spring and fall - are also fine times to get away. Most merchants now open around Easter and don't close until after Thanksgiving.
In autumn, they almost all offer reduced rates.
Hotels and motels have ``off-season'' prices for single nights, weekends and longer stays. At the Holiday Inn in Kill Devil Hills, for example, an oceanfront room costs $155 per night in the summer. On Oct. 1, that rate drops to $90 per night on the weekends and $75 nightly during the week, says Bonnie Quamen, who manages the front desk at the 105-room hotel.
Cottage rental companies usually are booked months in advance by summer vacationers. But fall travelers often can walk into a rental office in the morning and check into their cottage that afternoon. Most houses only rent by the week in-season. But off-season, some rental managers will lease cottages for three-day weekends. Rates drop by as much as half in the fall.
``A house we get $1,000 a week for in summer rents for $500 or so this time of year,'' said Dana Hedgepeth, an agent at Kitty Dunes Realty. Hedgepeth's company manages 400 homes from Corolla through South Nags Head. Last week, she still had cottages available through Christmas.
``More couples seem to come in the fall, instead of families,'' Hedgepeth said. ``I guess that's because the kids are back in school. It sure is quieter in fall, though. Quite a change from the busy summer.'' GET OUT
A two-hour drive for most Hampton Roads residents, the Outer Banks is an environmental Eden. Free of mega-malls, parking garages and high-rise office buildings, the barrier island beaches stretch more than 100 flat miles along the Atlantic Ocean from Carova, near the Virginia border, to Ocracoke Island. About 70 of those miles are managed by the National Park Service, part of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore.
Other areas are controlled by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission, Nature Conservancy, Audubon Society and various historical organizations. Much of the land has been preserved in its natural, undeveloped state. Public beach and sound accesses are located throughout the region.
Summer afternoons are often so hot that many visitors spend them sitting inside air-conditioned rental cottages or shopping in electronically cooled comfort. But fall temperatures hover in the 60s and 70s. Winds whisk the humidity out to sea.
And it's almost impossible to remain indoors.
The air is somehow clearer on the Outer Banks in October. Crisp and light, the cotton-flecked Carolina blue sky seems to seep into your lungs and awaken your senses. Sea oats grow to gargantuan heights, towering over otherwise barren dunes. Canada geese honk their hellos while sailing overhead. Even the salt spray smells stronger: It's flavored with fish this time of year.
Walking is a favorite pastime of many Outer Banks residents. Whether strolling through Nags Head Woods Ecological Preserve on pine-needle carpets, splashing along the marshy swash of Roanoke Sound or struggling up the steep slope of the East Coast's tallest sand dune at Jockey's Ridge State Park, there are walks to fit all fitness levels.
If you want to cover more ground - or not exert as much energy - autumn afternoons are ideal times for open-air drives. In a Jeep, convertible or any vehicle with the windows rolled down, there's no better way to spend three hours than twisting along two-lane N.C. Route 12 from Corolla through Hatteras Village. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, you can even cruise the beach. If you don't, you can rent one from Outer Banks Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge-Jeep-Eagle in Kill Devil Hills.
Special permits are required to drive on the beach in Kill Devil Hills and Nags Head. But any four-wheel-drive may cruise the sands north of Corolla, at Oregon Inlet, on Hatteras Island and throughout Ocracoke. And there are seldom any traffic problems anywhere after August.
By fall, the Outer Banks' population drops from 300,000 to about 30,000 locals - so there's much more room to move around. NORTHERN BEACHES
The paved road starts just north of Corolla, where N.C. 12 springs from sand paths criss-crossing the beach. You can park your car nearby and hike into the Currituck National Wildlife Refuge here, where wild pigs, horses and waterfowl abound. Or you can steer a four-wheel-drive along the wide beach and drive around isolated beach cottages.
There's a fence along the blacktop's edge - spanning the island from sound to sea. Members of the Corolla Wild Horse Fund built the barrier this past winter and herded 23 horses north of it, to keep them away from traffic and out of harm's way. The animals, however, are powerful swimmers - and are drawn to the green grasses of Corolla's landscaped lawns on the southern side of the blockade. Many of them have managed to go around the fence's ends. And one even rolled underneath.
Sometimes, half the herd stops to munch breakfast in front of the Food Lion or at the TimBuck II shops. It is illegal to approach, pet or feed the wild horses - whose ancestors are said to have descended from Spanish mustangs that swam ashore from shipwrecks more than 400 years ago. But the animals aren't frightened of photographers who keep their distance - so keep the camera close by.
A few miles south of the fence, Corolla's Currituck Beach Lighthouse pokes its glass crown through the pine tops - an iron walkway forming the thin brim and offering spectacular views from sound to sea. The lighthouse is open daily for $4 tours from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Climbers should wear comfortable shoes to mount the 212 steps.
The Whalehead Club sits in the shadow of the lighthouse, across a wooden walkway, facing Currituck Sound. This 1925 mansion was built as a hunt club for the wife of a wealthy railroad executive, because area clubs wouldn't let women join. Today, it is owned by Currituck County and is scheduled for a $5 million facelift. Although tours are only offered through September, the estate is open to the public year round. The copper roof and tall chimneys of the vanilla-colored club are well worth seeing, even if only from the outside.
Dozens of new shops and at least three new restaurants opened in Corolla this summer. Scores of half-million dollar rental homes have sprung from the sands in the past year. If you haven't visited this northern Outer Banks resort lately, it's worth the trip just to muse about all the upscale development and planned communities.
Sunday drivers should schedule a brunch at the Sanderling Inn - about a half-hour south of Corolla and a half-hour north of the Wright Memorial Bridge. This extravagant lodge and its eatery serve a delectable spread for $14.95 per person from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. each Sunday. And the oceanfront scenery is serene and soothing.
Duck has scores of boutiques, gift shops and galleries. A new shopping village opened this year on the east side of N.C. 12. And many stores offer autumn clear-out sale savings for early Christmas elves. Central beaches and Roanoke Island
Long known for its big, hot breakfasts, Kitty Hawk Pier is the perfect place to greet the sun as it climbs out of the Atlantic each morning. Anglers from all along the East Coast gather here at dawn throughout the fall to catch spot, flounder, speckled trout and puppy drum. Bluefish usually start running around the barnacle-encrusted pilings sometime in November.
As at other area piers, experienced anglers usually are willing to help, educate and explain the intricacies of fall fishing to almost anyone. For those who don't own a rod, piers and tackle shops will rent all the necessary equipment. The Virginian-Pilot and local radio stations carry daily fishing reports and tips about what types of fish are biting what bait - and where.
If history sets you soaring, the Outer Banks are the site of the first English colony in America; the first radio transmission of musical notes; the first air strike that sunk a ship; the nation's tallest brick lighthouse; and the world's first heavier-than-air flight.
The Wright Brothers National Memorial in Kill Devil Hills is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. alongside the world's first airstrip: a sandy track now sprinkled with sickly grass. Park rangers offer free talks on the history of aviation, beside a replica of Wilbur and Orville's 1903 flier. A bookstore, museum displays and replicas of the hangar and the brothers' small shack also are open all year.
For adventurous aviators, Kitty Hawk Aero Tours offers hour-long flights above the barrier islands from behind the Wright Brothers Monument. An antique, open-cockpit biplane also gives guided flights throughout the fall. Sometimes, the goggled pilot of this rig throws in a stunt or two to impress a school of dolphin watching from the ocean below. Wear a jacket if you ascend in this aircraft in autumn: Even light winds feel wickedly brisk above 300 feet.
Flight enthusiasts who want to keep their heads in the clouds but their feet on the ground might prefer kite flying - an ideal activity in October winds. Kitty Hawk Kites in Nags Head sells a variety of easy-to-use stunt and competition kites. The store also offers hang-gliding lessons from the top of Jockey's Ridge sand dune, where dozens of rainbow-striped wings soar into the sunset each afternoon. A three-flight beginner's lesson takes off each morning at 7:30 a.m. for $49. Five-flight lessons are offered for $69 at 10 a.m., 1 and 4 p.m.
With shallow waters seldom rising above waist-deep and dozens of tiny marsh islands to explore, Roanoke Sound is popular with kayakers and canoers - from novice to expert. Kitty Hawk Sports, The Water Works, Promenade Water Sports and several other outdoor outfitters rent lightweight kayaks in one and two-seat models. Water Works in Nags Head, for example, rents kayaks for $15 and hour, $10 each additional hour. Be aware of the wind this time of year, though. Gusts kick up waves quickly and can make paddling a chore.
South Nags Head and Roanoke Island both boast new paved bike paths, separated from the street and safe for children and dogs. These state-financed routes are open to walkers, in-line skaters, joggers and, of course, bicyclists. Many Outer Banks outlets rent bicycles by the day, and some bed-and-breakfast inns have free bikes for guests.
A 10-minute drive west of Nags Head, Roanoke Island is much easier to explore in October than during the summer season. Free parking is available almost everywhere in the quaint waterfront village of Manteo. You can stroll past a historic brick courthouse, shop along the docks in jewelry and candle stores or traipse across the decks of the 16th century sailing ship Elizabeth II - a replica of the vessel Sir Walter Raleigh's colonists used to cross the Atlantic when they arrived from England more than four centuries ago. A costumed interpreter offers tours of the ship from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays. Admission is $3 for adults, $1.50 for children and students.
On the north end of Roanoke Island, the North Carolina aquarium houses hundreds of fish in glass houses. Shark, turtles and horseshoe crabs swim around wall-size tanks flanked by educational displays. This spring, an osprey nest was added to the exhibits - complete with feathered family. The raptors live atop a platform built outside on aquarium grounds. A television camera beams their homelife onto a color monitor so you can watch the ospreys' activities close up. The aquarium is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays; and from 1 to 5 p.m. Sundays. Admission is $3 for adults, $1 for children ages 17 and under. SOUTHERN BEACHES
Hatteras Island is the Outer Banks' fishing hub, home to two sportsfishing fleets and miles of navigable beach-buggy paths. The Herbert C. Bonner Bridge carries cars from Nags Head south across Oregon Inlet, where throngs of surf anglers wade into shallow waves to cast for croaker, spot and speckled trout, to name a few sought-after species. Charter boats from this fishing center catch limits of yellowfin tuna, wahoo, dolphin and occasional billfish throughout the fall.
``Pier fishing, surf fishing, off-shore fishing and fishing from small boats - it's all great down here from late September through late November,'' said Bob Eakes, owner of Red Drum Tackle in Buxton. ``On Avon Pier, they get some big drum, mostly at night, on cut menhaden or mullet. With a long cast off the end, you can reel in some keepers.
``Cape Point has some world-class big drum in November for surf fishermen,'' Eakes said. ``And there's speckled trout on the beaches from Oregon Inlet through Buxton.''
In the sounds, he said, ``striped bass are back in plentiful numbers.'' This year's sportsfishing season will include November - which was closed to stripers last year. Anglers also will be allowed to keep one instead of two fish a day, with 24-inch minimums. Two-pound croaker, medium bluefish and speckled trout also abound throughout autumn.
And with mild temperatures and bountiful breezes, anglers break a sweat less often than they break their lines.
``On Hatteras Island, king mackerel fishing is the best in the United States during November,'' Eakes said, referring to a near-shore ocean fishery. ``Some of the guys also like to throw for false albacore. He's a prince of a swordfish. Throw light tackle and small pieces of metal for that one. He's a real speedy critter.''
Waterfowl are as plentiful as fish in the fall, as thousands of birds migrate across the barrier islands en route to their winter nesting grounds. Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge, on the southern side of Oregon Inlet, sports some of the best bird watching on the Atlantic seaboard. Well-trodden trails wind through the wilderness, around marshy bogs and into dense maritime thickets. Bring your binoculars and wear long pants. Early birds see the best shows.
If you want to get closer to animals in a more confined environment, Double L Bird Ranch and Petting Zoo in Buxton is open Tuesdays through Fridays from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 3 to 5 p.m.; and on Saturdays from 10 to 1. Cost is $5 for adults, $3 for children under 12. For those who prefer underwater wonders, Hatteras Village Aqua Farm offers wholesale and retail seafood - and a glimpse at how it's grown. And charter boats bring daily catches to the docks at Oregon Inlet, Pirate's Cove Marina and Hatteras Village each afternoon between 4 and 5.
Windsurfing is a world-class event at Canadian Hole, between Avon and Buxton. From the slightest breeze to the wildest blow, dozens of die-hard windsurfers - many clad in fluorescent wetsuits - gather at this soundside beach to harness the winds and skirt across the waves. Area watersports stores offer instruction, board rental and repairs.
Although the candy-striped Cape Hatteras Lighthouse offers tours only through Oct. 9, its visitor center will remain open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. all year. Here, you can see how lifesaving crews rescued shipwreck victims; learn what storms did - and can do - to fragile strips of sand; and marvel at the 208-foot tall black and white beacon that guides watermen from around the world. Swimming, beach combing and surfing are permitted on the beach east of the beacon - where you'll find some of the most consistent and biggest breaks around.
At the end of Hatteras Island, a free ferry takes travelers to Ocracoke - an island inaccessible except by boat. The 45-minute trip across Hatteras Inlet thrills most first-timers. Even island natives usually get out of their cars to watch sun-speckled waters drift slowly by. A picturesque fishing village where Blackbeard the pirate is said to have stayed, Ocracoke now includes craft shops, family-owned boutiques and cozy seafood restaurants. The island's squat, white-washed lighthouse is worth a short bike ride through the narrow back lanes. And at The Jolly Roger - an outdoor, waterfront cafe - you can sip cold beer, sample fresh local shrimp, and watch the sun melting into Silver Lake. MEMO: The Virginian-Pilot's best travel stories, plus travel resources on the
Internet, can be found on the Fun page of Pilot Online. See Page A2 for
details. ILLUSTRATION: DREW WILSON/Staff color photo
An angler waits for a strike in the glistening early-morning surf
along a Nags Head beach.
Graphic
TRAVELER'S ADVISORY
Getting there: Off Interstate 64, take Virginia Route 168
(Battlefield Boulevard) south through Chesapeake and cross the North
Carolina border. Stay east on Route 168 until it turns into U.S.
Highway 158, following signs to Nags Head. U.S. Route 158 crosses
the Wright Memorial Bridge and Currituck Sound, depositing traffic
in Kitty Hawk, on the Outer Banks.
Alternative route: Off Interstate 64, take U.S. Route 17 south to
South Mills. Then take State Route 343 to Camden. Follow U.S. Route
158 east to Barco. At Barco, drive resumes until U.S. 158 crosses
the Currituck Sound to the Outer Banks.
More info: The Dare County Tourist Bureau, (919) 473-2138; the
Outer Banks Chamber of Commerce, (919) 441-8144; the Ocracoke
Tourist Information Center, (919) 928-6711.
Attractions mentioned in this article: All area codes are 919.
Currituck Beach Lighthouse, 453-4939. Sanderling Inn Restaurant,
261-3021. Kitty Hawk Aero Tours, 441-4460. Kitty Hawk Kites,
441-4124. Water Works, 441-8875. Kitty Hawk Sports, 441-6800.
Elizabeth II State Historic Site, 473-1144. North Carolina Aquarium
on Roanoke Island, 473-3493. Double L Bird Ranch, 995-5494. Hatteras
Village Aqua Farm, 986-2249.
by CNB