THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Thursday, October 12, 1995 TAG: 9510100100
SECTION: NORFOLK COMPASS PAGE: 14 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: ON THE TOWN
SOURCE: SAM MARTINETTE
LENGTH: Medium: 88 lines
The first time I sat at the counter of what is now Mal's Diner on Charlotte Street was more than 40 years ago.
My mother had taken me to get my first pair of glasses at an optical shop nearby, and I remember being astounded as I looked through the windows of the White Tower and saw dirt caked on a passing bus, a detail that had escaped my imperfect vision until that day.
We ordered burgers, and I felt very cosmopolitan dining downtown and able to read the ``Please Pay When Served'' card mounted over the grill.
Even though the White Towers of Norfolk have long since closed, Malcolm Shea and Kevin Douglas have revived the diner tradition at Mal's - even if they have fancied the place up with three booths.
``People still prefer the counter,'' Shea said. ``They sit and discuss O.J., downtown parking, anything news.''
``We're trying to keep that old 1950s feel,'' Douglas added. ``Back then people knew the food was fresh, and that's what we do now. We don't pre-cook our food, which is why we tell people with only a half-hour for lunch to call ahead and get us to start their meal before they come in.''
I can attest that it doesn't take much action to make Mal's Diner a busy place. While I had lunch, students from the beauty academy around the corner lined up for food to go. Technicians from the phone company were having a late breakfast, and a fellow nearby turned out to be a physician from the medical school who had heard about Mal's from friends.
The partners took over the diner almost a year ago and spent several months knocking out a wall to build the small dining room area.
``We started penniless, and so far just about every dime we've made has gone back into the business,'' Douglas said. ``But we feel that downtown Norfolk has much to offer, and Granby Street has so much potential. One of the reasons is the college coming in, and we're happy to see what has happened with Granby Row. It just hasn't gotten here yet.''
``We're really struggling to make it a go,'' Shea admitted. ``We try to remember everybody's name and look out for the regulars. Some come in every day.''
A new menu is in place at Mal's, with offerings such as the ``Monster Burger'' - a half-pound burger on a kaiser roll ($3.50/$4.40 with fries); a club sub of ham, turkey, mayo, lettuce, tomato and a vinaigrette dressing ($4.95); a BLT ($2.75); or a grilled cheese ($1.95) with soup or chili ($3.25). A regular burger is $1.85, and a bacon cheeseburger with fries is $3.45.
Mal's has a ``healthy side'' menu, with a chicken salad plate ($3.95) or a combo of chicken and tuna salads with potato salad ($4.95) and a grilled Hawaiian chicken breast on a kaiser roll ($3.50).
Breakfasts include one egg, any style ($1.85, with home fries or grits, and toast); three pancakes ($2.85); a waffle, two eggs, three strips of bacon or two sausages ($3.90); two eggs, ham steak, home fries or grits, and toast ($4.50); and a selection of omelets, ranging from the plain egg variety ($2.50) to Mal's Favorite (ham, onions, green peppers, mushrooms and cheese - $4.50). french toast is $2.65, and you can get a fried egg sandwich on toast (take my advice and add a little mustard) for $1.55.
Desserts are homemade by Georgia Johnson, Kevin's mother, and the day I was in they included a heavenly Ambrosia, a toasted coconut cream pie, a New York-style cherry cheese cake, a chocolate pecan pie and banana pudding.
Mal's Diner (119 W. Charlotte St., 627-4491) will deliver breakfast or lunch to area businesses with a $5 minimum. The hours of operation are 6:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday, and 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. When we talked, Douglas and Shea were thinking about opening in the evening again this fall.
The Taphouse Grill in Ghent (931 W. 21st St., 627-9172) is offering Octoberfest food and drink all this month, including grilled bratwurst, sauerkraut, sweet and sour potatoes, schnitzel with caraway and cheese, and spaetzel. There also will be a number of special Octoberfest beers on draft all month long. The Taphouse Grill is open for dinner daily and serves a special brunch menu each Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Monroe's has closed. Chef Monroe Duncan closed the doors for good last week on his Ocean View eatery. ``Location, location, location,'' was Duncan's epitaph for his namesake restaurant. By the time you read this, the phoenix will have risen at a place called Suddenly Last Summer, on Laskin Road in Virginia Beach. Most recently the California Cafe, the place for decades was the Isle of Capri (not to be confused with the new Isle of Capri). I'll untangle all of this in a later column. ILLUSTRATION: Photo by SAM MARTINETTE
Malcolm Shea, left, and Kevin Douglas have revived the diner
tradition and are trying to hold onto a 1950s feel at Mal's on
Charlotte Street.
by CNB