The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Wednesday, October 18, 1995            TAG: 9510170108
SECTION: VIRGINIA BEACH BEACON    PAGE: 02   EDITION: FINAL 
TYPE: Coastal Journal 
SOURCE: Mary Reid Barrow 
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   89 lines

EMPTY PONDS IN SEASHORE PARK PART OF NATURAL WET/DRY CYCLES

When you walk through First Landing/ Seashore State Park on one of these pretty fall days, don't be surprised to see the freshwater ponds almost gone.

After two dry summers the water levels are very low, especially in the old familiar ponds you cross at the beginning of the Bald Cypress Trail. Lush green vegetation is growing in moist mud where chocolate-colored water once reflected the cypress trees' feathery branches. Water marks on the tree trunks are high and dry by 2 to 3 feet. My first reaction was to be concerned.

Not to worry, said Chief Ranger Interpreter John Elliott. First, wet/dry cycles are all part of the natural process. Second, we haven't had a real drought, he said. It takes three dry years to officially qualify as a drought. Even in the past two years, we have had wet seasons, he added.

Third, bald cypress trees must have dry weather to reproduce. Although cypress thrive in wet conditions, it seems cypress seeds cannot germinate under water. So, in order to multiply, the trees must have a drought period for seedlings to get under way.

Also don't be alarmed when you see their leaves turn brown and start to drop this fall. The bald cypress, unlike a true cypress, loses its leaves every year, thus the name ``bald.''

Seeing the dry ponds, I became very aware of the tupelo trees that, like the cypress, grow in the lagoons. Now you can really see that tupelos have the same broad base as the cypress to help stabilize them on a muddy bottom.

At the drier ponds, you'll miss the familiar sight of water turtles lazily stretched out on logs and grassy mounds to warm in the sun. Not to worry there either, Elliott said.

``The turtles move about,'' he explained. ``I recently moved three sliders off the road. They were heading for wetter areas.''

Pretty red-bellied watersnakes, northern brown watersnakes and the big old poisonous cottonmouth moccasins also aren't seen as often. They too have moved to wetter ponds, or have hunkered down in damp areas to escape the weather.

One place where many of the animals could have migrated is a lagoon farther down the Bald Cypress Trail. Soon after you cross the main trail, a short side trail leads to the left to an overlook out over a larger lagoon with a considerable amount of water in it. Turns out that pond is spring fed, Elliott said.

Although the water level is high, in every other respect, the pond looks exactly like the surrounding lagoons. But sure enough, turtles were sunning on a grassy mound just off the overlook.

``The ground feed is in the dead center of the pool,'' Elliott said. ``It's probably close to 11 feet deep at that point.''

White Hill lake, off Long Creek Trail, also is spring fed but it is much bigger and doesn't have the appearance of a cypress lagoon. Long Creek Trail is my favorite especially in winter, because it borders Long Creek and you can see a variety of waterfowl. Little black and white bufflehead ducks are always there and will be arriving before too long.

The lagoons were created centuries ago in low lying swales between sand dunes. They are fed by rainwater and run-off from the higher areas. A build-up of leaf mold, like a lining in a basket, helps to retain the water.

The water is made dark by the tannin acid found in most plants. It's said that sailors came ashore in the 1600s to replenish ship water supplies from these ponds. Even then it was known that the acid that makes the water so unappealing to look at also keeps it fresh.

But if they came ashore thirsty this year, they would have to work to find a drink.

P.S. OPEN HEARTH COOKING, as it was done in the 18th century, will be demonstrated from noon to 4 p.m. Saturday at historic Lynnhaven House. Admission is: adults, $2.50; ages 6 to 18, $1; and under 6, free.

FOCUS ON FIBER, a free fashion show, will begin at 2 p.m. Saturday at historic Francis Land House. Sponsored by the Tidewater Weavers Guild, the show will feature local artists in their handmade designs. There will be displays on all areas of fiber production. MEMO: What unusual nature have you seen this week? And what do you know about

Tidewater traditions and lore? Call me on INFOLINE, 640-5555. Enter

category 2290. Or, send a computer message to my Internet address:

mbarrow(AT)infi.net.

ILLUSTRATION: Staff photos by MARY REID BARROW

Ranger John Elliott points out this spring-fed pond at First

Landing/Seashore State Park, which has retained its high water level

despite the dry cycle that has left other ponds way below normal.

Luc Nguyen grew this oversized winter melon

in his Thoroughgood garden. He estimates it

weighs 23 to 24 pounds.

by CNB