The Virginian-Pilot
                             THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT 
              Copyright (c) 1995, Landmark Communications, Inc.

DATE: Thursday, December 21, 1995            TAG: 9512190116
SECTION: NORFOLK COMPASS          PAGE: 14   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: On the Town 
SOURCE: Sam Martinette 
                                             LENGTH: Medium:   88 lines

TASTY IDEAS FOR LAST-MINUTE SHOPPING

It's the big week for holiday shoppers, and potential gifts involving food come to mind.

One such gift is the lavishly illustrated ``Desserts To Die For,'' a new book by Master Chef Marcel Desaulniers of the Trellis Restaurant in Williamsburg. The book will make any sweet-eater's mouth water.

For those who crave sweets and want to do it themselves, there can be few better teachers than Desaulniers. Now 15 years old, the Trellis has become a world-renowned eatery, and Desaulniers is considered one of America's top chefs. Author of ``The Trellis Cookbook,'' ``The Burger Meisters'' and ``Death By Chocolate,'' all of which are still in print, Chef Marcel also hosts two TV series based on his books.

``Desserts To Die For'' was published this fall by Simon & Schuster. The 144-page oversized cookbook, priced at $30, contains wonderful, full-color pictures with recipes (done with Jon Pierre Peavey) for everything from hard cider ice cream or fruitcake to such exotica as ``Pillars of Chocolate with Cocoa Thunderheads.''

The recipes include a section called ``The Chefs Touch,'' wherein Chef Marcel annotates the offering with a story about when or where he may have first created the dessert or a recommendation of a dessert wine or spirit to accompany the dish.

``Desserts To Die For'' should be considered an art book, with its excellent photography by Michael Grand. Indeed, Chef Marcel was in town recently to sign copies during a champagne and dessert reception at the Chrysler Museum, a fitting venue for a man who has made an art form out of dessert. Available at most local bookstores, ``Desserts To Die For'' is a stunning presentation of the sweet side of life.

Another gift idea is a membership in the Richmond-based International Dining Club Ltd., which offers members a dozen opportunities to purchase two-for-one meals at nearly 90 restaurants in Hampton Roads.

``IDC started in Richmond in 1971,'' said owner and president Norman Morgan during a visit to Norfolk last week. ``Now we're almost everywhere in Virginia, and in North Carolina, Georgia, Florida, and St. Croix, with something over 1,000 restaurants involved. Here we have 88 restaurants, with 27 or so on the Peninsula.''

This is how it works: A membership costs $40 for approximately 12 months. Membership expires on the last day of the month you joined, the following year. Members receive a printout of cards, offering two-for-one meals at restaurants such as Antiquities, Elliot's, Tandom's Madison Grill, Il Porto, San Antonio Sam's, Regino's, O'Sullivan's Wharf, Schooner's Harbor Grill at Waterside, Anthony's, even Zero's sub shops.

Many are unrestricted, good for lunch or dinner seven days a week, 12 times during the membership, while others offer special deals such as the Antiquities ``Gourmet Dinner for Two,'' including appetizers, soup or salad for two, two entrees and two desserts, as well as a bottle of wine. Even the Norfolk Tides participate, offering two-for-one tickets to games at Harbor Park.

``Our membership profile is basically the middle to upper income caliber market,'' Morgan said, ``people form their upper 20s to their mid 50s.''

Morgan guesses he has visited some 10,000 restaurants during the years he has operated IDC.

``One of the major changes is that 25 years ago you had very few chains,'' he said. ``Fast food was in its infancy then, compared to today. But because people are dining out more frequently there are actually more independent restaurants now than 25 years ago.

``Another major change is that restaurant owners 25 years ago were people form various nationalities, cultures and ethnic groups. Their families were often new to the U.S. They could cook but didn't know the business end very well. Now their sons and daughters are running the business in a more professional way.''

IDC operated in Hampton Roads until the mid-'80s, then Morgan pulled out to concentrate on other areas. Since returning in the spring of '95, Morgan said, this area has become one of his best for sales, and, in at least one case - at the Lighthouse Restaurant in Virginia Beach - he's calling on the son of the owner he dealt with 25 years ago. Other Beach restaurants of note include the hot, new Eurasi, Animation, Bangkok Garden, Bella Monte, Alexander's On The Bay, and Le Chambord.

As for the gift aspect, Morgan said purchasing four or more memberships lowers the annual fee to $35 each. The International Dining Club toll-free number is 1-800-849-4432. ILLUSTRATION: Photo by SAM MARTINETTE

Master Chef Marcel Desaulniers of the Trellis autographs his new

book, ``Desserts To Die For.''

by CNB