THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, April 7, 1996 TAG: 9604090527
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant review
SOURCE: BY DONNA REISS, RESTAURANT CRITIC
LENGTH: Medium: 97 lines
THE DINING ROOM at Ford's Colony in Williamsburg is one of three Virginia restaurants honored with five diamonds by the American Automobile Association. Though within a country club, the Dining Room also is open to the public.
The main dining area is elegant, with dark woods, soft drapes, fresh linens, dim lighting and floral arrangements.
Service, while appropriately formal and attentive, is unpretentious. Most important, the food is fresh, attractively presented, interestingly designed and delicious.
Instead of dining in the attractive main room, we chose the chef's table in David Everett's kitchen. Tucked into a corner, it resembles a family dining nook and is large enough for eight. Tall, dark wood chairs with comfortable cushioned seats almost hug the walls, which are decorated with framed accolades for chef Everett.
To our surprise, he worked the carefully orchestrated line for hours - maintaining quality along with well-deserved celebrity. Almost every member of the staff stopped by our table.
We ordered the seven-course tasting dinner with wine. My companion had chosen two wines in advance, to which the chef matched courses, offering his own selections for the other courses. By the end of the evening, we were convinced the restaurant deserves diamonds, stars, toques and all the familiar symbols of outstanding dining.
Sparkling water in vase-like bottles was chilling in a Champagne bucket when we arrived. Soon, the Champagne from St. Jean arrived along with satiny oxtail consomme dotted with pinpoints of diced parsnips.
To contrast the smoothness of the first course, the second brought chunks of lobster and scallops wrapped in a filmy caul and surrounded by a Sauterne cream and the chef's selection of Chardonnay from Arrowood in California. A bright lobster face stared up from each plate.
Another Chardonnay, from Kendall Jackson, came with an herbed tuna fillet, 1 1/2 inches thick, dressed with a sliver of lush foie gras and a sauce of chanterelle mushrooms and chopped sweet-breads.
A roast guinea hen followed. It was deceptively simple in presentation but elevated by paper-thin slices of truffle tucked under the skin, light black truffle sauce on the plate, and crisply fried leek threads. With this we drank St. Emilion Chateau Magdellaine Grand Cru 1988, selected by my companion.
Then came tender medium-rare venison in cabernet reduction with root vegetables and a puff of mashed potatoes. It was flavored with truffle oil, selected by our chef to harmonize with my companion's choice of Pichon Lalande Comtesse Paullic 1982.
The next course was refreshingly rich: a slice of pear and blue cheese terrine, incorporating a creamy Stilton and a sprinkling of woody-sweet balsamic vinegars. A Parmesan wafer was a crunchy contrast.
Finally came a chocolate tart with blackberry and raspberry garnish. With it, a creamy-thick creme brulee was flecked with vanilla bean and topped with a sheet of burnt sugar and swirl of spun sugar. It harmonized with Warre's 1983 Port.
At The Dining Room, a la carte diners can choose many of the dishes the chef had chosen for us.
Most main dishes cost more than $20, but a few are less. In an adjacent, more casual Grill Room, dinners from the same kitchen are $8 to $15. Chef's table dinners are priced according to the number of courses and amount of wine; our seven courses at $70 a person was appropriate. Wine, tax and gratuity were additional.
Setting, service and cuisine are exceptional. MEMO: Reviews are based on a single, unannounced visit by a party of two or
three, unless otherwise noted. The Virginian-Pilot pays for the
reviewer's meal and those of the guests. ILLUSTRATION: Color photo
JIM WALKER/The Virginian-Pilot
The Dining Room is in a country club but open to the public.
Graphic
BILL OF FARE
The Dining Room at Ford's Colony, 240 Ford's Colony Drive,
Williamsburg. (804) 258-4104.
Cuisine: regional American emphasizing fresh ingredients in
interesting combinations.
Atmosphere: understated elegance: dark woods, candlelight,
flowers, formal but unpretentious service. Chef's tasting table in
kitchen.
Prices: Grill Room lunch from $5.50 to $12; Grill Room dinner
from $8 to $15. Dining Room dinner starters from $4 to $9, main
dishes from $16 to $25, desserts from $4 to $5.50.
Hours: dinner from 6 to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday; brunch
from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday. The more casual Grill Room is open
from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday.
Reservations: essential. For the chef's table, reserve week
nights a week in advance, Saturday nights a month in advance.
Smoking: 10 percent of seating.
by CNB