THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, May 19, 1996 TAG: 9605160186
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 10 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: Restaurant Review
SOURCE: BY CATHERINE KOZAK
LENGTH: Medium: 93 lines
GOURMET VEGETARIAN FOOD has finally found a home among fins and feathers, the more standard dining fare on the Outer Banks.
As a longtime vegetarian, I was pleased to hear about the opening of the new Atlantis Bar and Bistro, which advertised that it offered one of the more extensive meatless menus on the Outer Banks.
That means no meat stocks in the soups, no lard in the beans - and mouth-watering entrees like veggie enchiladas, curried lentils and veggies over rice.
But owner Jerry Dowless is pragmatic: Meat and fish devotees also will find special delights, with entrees like grilled tuna steaks, duck and Diamond-Jim cut Angus beef.
``We're trying to do it right - vegetarians are real picky,'' Dowless said. ``It's tough when you put that vegetarian label on things. . . . I guess we're trying to offer something different and something traditional.''
Vegetarian culinary art has evolved over the years from its early bird- and hamster-food reputation to its current vast range of choices, limited only by the chef's imagination.
Meatless dishes can be found among all traditional ethnic foods, and many American foods can be adjusted or perfected without using meat. With increasing numbers of health- and weight-conscious consumers, vegetarianism has attained mainstream status.
``Vegetarian dishes are not way-out stuff anymore,'' Dowless said, ``or things that people who eat meat aren't going to like.''
The Atlantis nightclub opened its doors April 1 at its new location on Croatan Highway in Nags Head, and the new restaurant premiered about two weeks later.
Atlantis the restaurant is a whole new venture for Dowless.
After entering the sprawling white, wood-sided building, make a left for food, right for music. Few would get confused, since music starts most evenings just when dinners end: 10 p.m.
On our first trip to the restaurant, Maitre d' Ferdinand Phipps, deep-voiced and wide-smiled, greeted us warmly at the door.
As my husband and I were led to our white-clothed table, twilight was filtering in softly through partially opened blinds, tastefully adjusted just right for atmosphere and effectively blocking out the road traffic.
Our waitress promptly came and lit a hurricane lamp-style candle. We chose a bottle of Honig Sauvignon Blanc for $15.50, a slightly acidic wine with a hint of green apples - a perfect start to the meal. The bread was also the way it should be: chewy and crusty.
For an appetizer, we chose the onion loaf for two ($6), finely-sliced onions dipped in beer batter and fried into a loaf. Although tasty, it could have been hotter and less greasy.
My husband selected the Bistro Vegetable Pie ($12), a gourmet - and huge - version of pot pie. Filled with broccoli, cheese, rice and wild mushrooms, the homemade pie shell was flaky and flavorful.
My meal was the Risotto ($14) with butternut squash, portobello mushrooms, fresh thyme and asiago cheese - also a generous serving that was filling and delicious.
Dinner entrees are served with a choice of stuffed baked potato and vegetable, or beans and rice.
We picked hazelnut torte and strawberry amaretto cake for dessert ($5 each). The slices, served cold, were a good size and tasted fine. But for the price, I expected a fresher taste. But considering that the restaurant has only been open several weeks, one can give Atlantis room to iron out some of the rough spots.
The Atlantis' chef, Chris Campbell, is well-respected as one of the Outer Banks' finest cooks. So it's a good bet that the little problems like cold onion loaf will be taken care of.
Then there's the background radio music, a nice blend of jazz, blues and R & B music. The only problem was that the atmosphere was cheapened by the commercial interruptions, which were too loud and too noticeable. Tapes of the same style of music would be great.
Dowless said late-night breakfast will now be served from 1:30 to 4 a.m., and the club and restaurant will start coordinating private parties in the fall.
So with such great - and innovative - food, Atlantis the restaurant could easily establish more continuity with Atlantis the nightclub. MEMO: Carolina Coast dining profiles are based on a single, unannounced visit
by Virginian-Pilot writers. Restaurant managers are often contacted
later for more information. The Virginian-Pilot pays for the meal.
ILLUSTRATION: Staff photo by DREW C. WILSON
The new Atlantis Bar and Bistro, advertises that it offers one of
the more extensive meatless menus on the Outer Banks.
by CNB