THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, July 21, 1996 TAG: 9607180031
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F6 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: THE HUMBLE STEWARD
SOURCE: JIM RAPER
LENGTH: 89 lines
A MIDSUMMER wine-tasting organized by The Country Vintner distributors in Richmond gave me the opportunity to sample about 50 wines, of which a dozen bottles hogged the space in my notebook.
Saint Morillon Brut, Chile ($8). This sparkling wine made from chardonnay and pinot noir has ripe apple fruit and the bread-dough softness you might expect from a California blanc de blancs. It is dry and has a crisp finish, but it does not have the stark acidity of many Champagnes. Fathers of brides might keep this wine in mind, especially if a retailer puts it on sale a week or two before the wedding reception.
Trumpeter 1995 Chardonnay Mendoza ($8) and 1995 Merlot Mendoza, Argentina ($9.50). The importers of these Argentine wines robbed barrels to bring samples to the tasting. The real bottles with real labels are due here later this year. They are from the same folks who produce the outstanding Catena wines from Argentina, and based on these early samples I predict that they will be hits in the U.S. Both taste richer than their price tag would suggest.
Stonelake 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon Lontue, Chile ($12). This is one of those South American wines that the average Yankee consumer thinks is from California. The name and label are very Californian, but the company behind it is 100 percent Chilean. A careful reading of the label, of course, reveals the wine's origin, and I guess there's no real harm done if the wine tastes as good as this one. It is a lighter weight cab, but not simple. I might have mistaken it for a lean cru bourgeois from Bordeaux. The wine spent time in new oak (both French and American), but doesn't have the thick, sweet spiciness that oak can lend to California cabs. The black currant fruit shows through and the finish is lively and long. This is a good food wine, serious enough to complement the food, but not a showoff. (Lontue is a subregion, along with Curico, of the Maule appellation in central Chile.)
Mediteo 1995 Syrah Vin de Pays d'Oc, France ($8). It will be hard to miss this one on the shelf. The bottle is fat and squat and the label tells you very quickly, and colorfully, that the wine comes from the Mediterranean coast of France. A producer of Chateauneuf du Pape, Dourthe Freres, has launched this line, which, in addition to the Syrah, includes a Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, all from the 1995 vintage and all from the Languedoc region between Provence and the Spanish border. The spicy, tar-tinged Syrah was my favorite, but the others are also well-made.
Punset 1993 Dolcetto d'Alba, Italy ($12). Some call dolcetto the Beaujolais of Italy. But don't expect this example to be a juicy-fruity, one-dimensional red. Yes, it is relatively light, but not so light as to be served chilled. It has tannins and a earthy taste that would turn offensive if the wine were chilled. This is a versatile red that would mate well with pizza or grilled steaks.
Rocche Costamagna 1993 Barbera d'Alba, Italy ($17). Tasting this wine together with the Punset Dolcetto brought back memories. Marina Marcarino of Punset and Alessandro Locatelli of Rocche Costamagna were in their 20s when they passed through Norfolk in 1992 promoting their wines. Both are still at the helms of their Piedmont (northern Italy) wineries and both have built fine reputations. The Barbera has that trace of licorice and minerals that, added to the dark cherry fruit, can make this varietal just as impressive as the legendary Barolos and Barbarescos made in the same region.
Remo Farina 1991 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Italy ($19). This may not be as concentrated as most Amarones, but it still packs a raisiny, leathery wallop and would taste great with a hunk of beefsteak. Amarones are made from grapes that have been dried and their sugars concentrated. So when the juice from them is fermented out, the resulting dry wine has a high alcohol content. If the monotony of merlots and cabs is getting you down, try this interesting and complicated wine for a change.
Perrin Reserve 1994 Cotes du Rhone and 1995 Cotes du Rhone blanc, France (both $10). These two labels have replaced the La Vieille Ferme Reserve Cotes du Rhones that the Perrin family had exported for some time. The best word to describe both of them is flavorful. The red has a rich, dark berry flavor and just enough black pepper on the finish. The white has lively acidity together with peach and honeysuckle flavors. The La Vieille Ferme label will still be used for the inexpensive Cotes du Luberon white and Cotes du Ventoux red, both of which are good values.
Domaine Vincent Delaporte 1995 Sancerre, France ($20). This may be a pricey sauvignon blanc, but it is also one of the best I've ever tasted from the Loire Valley. There is nothing austere about this Sancerre. Its nose is a riot of melon, grass and eucalyptus aromas, and the taste picks up herbs and grapefruit, as well as a trace of vanilla. Novice and expert alike can take one sip of this wine and know it to be very special.
Chateau de la Ragoliere 1995 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, France ($10). The North Atlantic coast of France gives us a wine that, when well made, should be a favorite in the seafood-famous regions of our own Atlantic Coast. This 1995 is a lively, appley example that would mate very well with oysters and broiled flounder. MEMO: The Humble Steward is a biweekly feature of Sunday Flavor. Send
questions or comments to: The Humble Steward, Sunday Flavor, The
Virginian-Pilot, 150 W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk, Va. 23510. If
possible, give complete label information when naming wines, and list
the vintage year. Please include your name and phone number. by CNB