THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, September 15, 1996 TAG: 9609120052
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
COLUMN: THE HUMBLE STEWARD
SOURCE: BY JIM RAPER, WINE COLUMNIST
LENGTH: 163 lines
MY FIRST Humble Steward column appeared in September 1991 and now, five years later, I am breaking from the task to live for a year in France.
I intend to write several articles for the Flavor sections while I am away. My primary subject, of course, will be wine. The wine not only of France but also of Spain, Italy and Germany. As regular readers of the column might expect, I am likely to garnish these articles with descriptions of foods that excite me.
I leave you with a column much like my first one - a wine buyer's guide for penny-pinching people of good taste. CALIFORNIA
Look for bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon remaining from the fine 1990, 1991 and 1992 vintages. The 1992s will be the easiest to find. Good value labels from that vintage are Villa Mt. Eden Cellar Select, California ($10); Murphy-Goode, Murphy Ranch, Alexander Valley ($16); Benziger, Sonoma ($15); Guenoc, Lake County ($10); Fetzer Barrel Select, North Coast ($12); Sutter Home Reserve, Napa ($11); and Gallo Sonoma ($11).
Chardonnays from the 1994 vintage are especially good, although all recent vintages have been fine. If you like them concentrated and tropical and a tiny bit sweet, go with Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve, California ($14) or Meridian, Santa Barbara ($12). For the butter and vanilla flavors, with apple or citrus tang, look for Napa Ridge Coastal Vines, Central Coast ($8); Chateau Souverain, Sonoma ($12); Benziger, Carneros ($14); J. Lohr Riverstone, Monterey ($14); Morgan, Monterey ($17), or Estancia, Monterey ($9).
Sauvignon Blancs from 1994 and 1995 are of better than average quality. You can go first class with this varietal without paying a bundle. Chic examples are Matanzas Creek, Sonoma ($17); Caymus, Napa ($17); and Spottswoode, Napa ($16). But wonderful vanilla, grapefruit, grass and melon flavors also can be had from Chateau St. Jean (Fume Blanc), Sonoma ($9); Markham, Napa ($9); Chateau Souverain, Alexander Valley ($9); and Benziger (Fume Blanc), Sonoma ($10).
For alternative whites, try Girard 1995 Dry Chenin Blanc, Napa ($10); Lockwood 1994 Pinot Blanc, Monterey ($11); and McDowell 1994 Viognier, Mendocino ($14).
Good merlot from California is expensive. The Chateau Souverain 1994, Alexander Valley ($12) is a good value. The Napa Ridge 1993, North Coast ($9) is among the best of the inexpensive ones.
There is an ocean of decent pinot noir in the $10 to $20 range. Napa Ridge 1994, North Coast ($9) tastes more expensive than it is. Robert Mondavi 1994, Carneros ($12) gets high marks, too.
You've read a good bit about red zinfandel in this column. I love this rich wine, and there really hasn't been a lousy vintage in the past two decades. I've never had a bad bottle from these producers: Ridge, Rosenblum, Rabbit Ridge, Ravenswood and Beringer. All of these labels have examples that cost $15 or less. PACIFIC NORTHWEST
If you remember just one winery - or winery family - from this part of the country, let it be Washington's Chateau Ste. Michelle. A blanket endorsement of this producer's wines (from about $8 to $35) would not be out of order. And don't forget the excellent sparkling wine ($10). A sister winery, Columbia Crest, is known for good, less expensive wines. The Columbia Crest 1993 Merlot Columbia Valley ($14) is a solid choice.
For riesling lovers, the Washington producers of Columbia, Columbia Crest and Hogue (from $7 to $8) are names to remember.
Staton Hills is a winery in Washington to watch. Its white and red wines have an Old World character to them that I like. The 1990 Chardonnay, Washington ($13) that I tasted recently was lively, with almond and vanilla edges. It reminded me of a mature Puligny-Montrachet. The 1992 Merlot Washington ($14) is a fine wine, too.
How about Oregon? The pinot noirs from this state are very good now and probably will become internationally recognized as outstanding within a decade. The best I've had was from Domaine Drouhin ($35), but nearly as tasty at half that price have been examples from Oak Knoll, Adelsheim, King Estate, Montinore and Ponzi. VIRGINIA
Chardonnay is the Old Dominion's best wine. Examples from Prince Michel and Montdomaine are widely available and good values at about $10 and up. At $15 to $18, but worth the money are more sophisticated - and, usually, oakier - wines from Naked Mountain, Oasis, Wintergreen, Williamsburg, Linden, Ingleside Plantation, Rockbridge, Oakencroft, Afton Mountain, Barboursville and Piedmont.
Virginia reds are improving but still lean toward mediocrity. In fact, lean is a good word to describe them. The best bets over the last decade have been the Linden Cabernet and Montdomaine Merlot (both about $15). The Williamsburg 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($18) is a quality red. Recent vintages of Willowcroft Cabernet Franc ($16) have been commendable. Cabernet franc seems to be a black grape that grows well in Virginia.
An exciting development in Virginia wines has been the introduction of Rhone type varietals by Horton Vineyards near Charlottesville. The Horton Viognier ($20) has been exceptional. I expect impressive results eventually from the less expensive reds, Mourvedre and Syrah. OTHER U.S. STATES
For chardonnay, and in some vintages, merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, the North Fork of Long Island, N.Y. is a blossoming appellation. My favorite wineries there are Lenz, Palmer and Pindar.
Competing with Virginia to be the ``next great wine state'' (after California, Washington, Oregon and New York) is Texas. Yep! Texas. The high plains around Lubbock are great for grape growing. Look for labels from Llano Estacado, Cap Rock and Pheasant Ridge. SOUTH AMERICA
Wines from Chile are becoming more dependable, but at a price. Five years ago, we could find good, interesting examples for $5 to $7. Now, the better ones cost twice that, and the cheaper ones tend to be correct but diluted and less than exciting.
The best-for-the-money Chilean wines I have tasted recently were from Carta Vieja. The 1995 Sauvignon Blanc Maule Valley ($5, but sometimes discounted to $3.50) is a tart mouthful. Good also are the label's Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. Also a safe bet, albeit at higher prices, are the better grade wines from Concha y Toro.
Argentina is sending us some high-quality wines but not at bargain prices. The Catena label ($16 to $18) for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay is dependable. Catena mimics California wines; Weinert sends us good copies of traditional European reds. The Weinert 1985 Cabernet Sauvignon ($17) that I drank recently may have been the best, most complex, less-than-$20 red I have tasted this year. AUSTRALIA
I'm not a big fan of Australian white wines. Recent vintages of Seaview Chardonnay McLaren Vale ($9) have been good enough, but I generally don't reach for whites from Down Under. I find them uninteresting, often flabby.
The reds, on the other hand, particularly the meaty shirazes, are good values. Penfolds, Seaview, Rose-mount and Wyndham are some names to look for in the $8 to $15 range. EUROPE
The great wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy are average or better (some are great) from the 1993 and 1994 vintages. Buy them if you can afford them now, or later as they are released. Most of us will drink humbler wines.
The 1995 Sauvignon Blanc-based Sancerres and Pouilly Fumes are very good. The most recent vintages of reds and whites from the southern Rhone and Languedoc should also be on your buy list. The Perrin Reserve white and red from the lower Rhone are good values at about $10. Also, look for varietals, particularly Syrah or Mourvedre, labeled as Vin de Pays d'Oc.
There are terrific examples at $7 to $10, but there are lousy ones, too. It's best to buy vin de pays (country wine) with the help of a knowledgeable wine merchant.
Italy has its share of expensive wines; those with deep pockets should buy 1989 and 1990 Barolos and Barbarescos, 1988 Brunellos or 1990 Chianti Riservas and Super Tuscans.
The rest of us can drink Barbera d'Alba (about $12 and up), which is often outstanding. Inexpensive ($5 to $9) Italian merlot and sangiovese and Chardonnay are less than lush but quite drinkable.
Spain offers exciting possibilities. Rioja Crianzas may be the best red wines for the money on retailers' shelves today. Look for examples (about $7 to $11) from Bujanda's Conde Valdemar, Marques de Caceres, Montecillo or CUNE. Rioja Reservas are worth the extra few dollars, and Rioja white wines are often good values ($7 and up). Also, try the reasonably priced red wines from Navarra and La Mancha ($8 and up) or the whites (such as Albarino at $12 and up) from Galicia.
A few words about German wines: recent vintages have been good, the riesling spatleses ($12 and up) are often great food wines, riesling ``Qba'' halbtrocken can be a steal at $9, and use riesling kabinett ($9 and up) for sipping at parties or before dinner. MEMO: Jim Raper will be living in Port Vendres on the Mediterranean Sea
near the Spanish border. ILLUSTRATION: FILE COLOR PHOTO
Many good vintages are within reach of even modest budgets. by CNB