THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, September 15, 1996 TAG: 9609130083
SECTION: DAILY BREAK PAGE: E1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY STEPHEN HARRIMAN, TRAVEL EDITOR
LENGTH: 292 lines
ARE YOU AS TIRED of summer's humid blanket as I am? Does it help any to know that this sticky damp will soon be gone, that the cooler, crisper air of autumn is not far away?
We can trust Mother Nature on that one. We can also trust her to make a big show of it. One chilling weather front and it begins to happen. The heavy, somber green landscape of summer yields to the bolder reds and golds of autumn, painted on a canvas as broad as the eye can see.
Thing is, Mother Nature can't be everywhere at once. She comes early to Virginia and she stays late, working with her paintbrush generally from north to south but more significantly from west to east, from mountains to seashore.
Elevation is a primary factor. Day by day, tree by tree, color cascades down the Allegheny and Blue Ridge mountains at the rate of about 100 feet a day, into the foothills and valleys and finally the coastal plain.
Can't wait? Then head for the hills. In the mountains, along the drier ridges, the first blushes of red and orange begin to appear in late September, about the time of the Harvest Moon, or early October. It's not too early now to make plans.
Keep this in mind: Peak color is in the eyes of the beholder. Generally, the peak of color in the mountains is Oct. 10-25, but it is not Mother Nature's policy to offer a guarantee.
Today we'll take a look at an area I've scouted, beyond the Blue Ridge, in the Alleghenies of western Virginia, an area where Mother Nature's annual autumn art tour begins.
It's centered in the vast Thomas Jefferson and George Washington National Forests between two old resorts, one nationally acclaimed, the other not so well known despite the fact it was once a movie star: The Homestead at Hot Springs and Mountain Lake Resort a few miles west of Blacksburg. Both have recently undergone major renovations.
Best of all, there are miles and miles of scenic Virginia byways between the two.
Two weeks from today, Sept. 29, we'll take a look at daytrips or weekend getaways a little closer to home - to some a couple of spots in the Virginia's Piedmont and Tidewater regions to catch the colors.
First a look at the two resorts, which might serve as a base of operations. THE HOMESTEAD
This 517-room complex of Georgian-style red brick, with its signature tower, is the grande dame of Virginia's mountain resorts. The property, which includes three renowned golf courses and 100 miles of hiking and horseriding trails, sprawls over 15,000 acres.
Although it's pricey, it's an interesting place to visit.
It's been in business to serve affluent travelers and vacationers since 1766 when Thomas Bullit recognized the potential for a resort at Little Warm Springs (now called Hot Springs) and built a simple hostelry, the original Homestead, where people could relax and ``take the cure.''
The present structure was built in stages from 1902 to 1929, when the tower topped it off; the conference center was added in 1973.
Like any aging grande dame, she requires periodic, uh, facelifting to remain grand.
A few of years ago, The Homestead was on the verge of bankruptcy. She had lost much of her glitter - fact is, she was beginning to appear ``a little tired,'' to put it graciously, - and some of her clientele as well.
Enter Dallas-based Club Resorts, the nation's largest privately held owner and operator of resorts, including Pinehurst Resort and Country Club in North Carolina. The company assumed management and co-ownership in 1993 with the Ingalls family, which had run the property for the better part of a century. Club Resorts is due to take over full ownership in 1998.
Today, much of the grand has been restored to the old dame, although the project, which will ultimately cost about $25 million, is not complete.
``The most difficult aspect of the restoration,'' says Gary K. Rosenberg, president of The Homestead, ``was to make it look like it has always been here. The most important consideration was to maintain the historical integrity of the grounds and buildings.''
Fact is, thanks to contemporary decorating and landscaping acumen, this place probably has never been nicer, more tastefully done.
The Great Hall, the resort's ceremonial entry and grandest room - it is 211 feet long, 42 feet wide and more than 22 feet high - has a new carpet that uses The Homestead's signature green with a design motif that includes magnolias, dogwood and mountain laurel, flowers and foliage indigenous to the Allegheny Mountains.
Lighted by 18 chandeliers, the hall's 16 Corinthian columns and its walls have been freshly painted a pale lemon color. Everywhere there are high-back wing chairs and down-filled sofas arranged in small conversation groups. Here a sort of afternoon tea is served daily.
The restoration has transformed a little-used Writing Room - people just don't write anymore - into a Tower Library and Museum. ``We want to make history an amenity,'' explains Susan Hruska of the public relations staff.
The room looks like a library in a grand English country estate, with mahogany paneling and a mix of cushioned white wicker and overstuffed leather chairs and chess tables. Displays of the resort's history are in glass cases; pictures of former guests adorn the walls.
There are various U.S. presidents and Robert E. Lee, John D. Rockefeller and Cornelius Vanderbilt Jr., Billy Graham and Omar Bradley, Alex Haley and Charles Kuralt. Why, there's the Duke of Windsor. He was here to enjoy the golf, tennis and carriage rides.
When His Grace was presented his bill for services rendered, he said, ``What do I do with this? I am not used to paying bills.''
The cavernous dining room has been brightened up with redecoration, but Swiss-born and trained chef Albert Schnarwyler and distinguished maitre d'hotel Woody Pettus, who have both been there forever, remain on duty.
The Homestead offers a breakfast buffet that is about as elaborate as any at which I have gorged myself this side of Asia, where they routinely provide extensive spreads for both Oriental and Occidental palates. Any place, such as The Homestead, that offers a choice of more than a dozen fresh fruits gets high marks from me.
Not to be missed (and you can do this for a small fee even if you're not a guest at The Homestead) are the men's and women's bath-house pools, dating from 1761 and 1836 respectively, at nearby Warm Springs. The men's bath-house is the oldest spa structure in the United States.
They are simply large, round spring-fed pools of 98-degree water in which you can soak, covered over by ancient whitewashed wood structures. Clothing is optional in both. They are open April through October.
To float in these gently bubbling pools is to experience serendipity.
In the neighborhood: About 15 miles south of Hot Springs, beside U.S. 220 on the way to Covington, you will see what Thomas Jefferson in 1781 called ``the only remarkable cascade in this country (he meant Virginia) . . . that of Falling Springs.'' (Lovers of Crabtree Falls in Nelson County always get very upset about this reference.)
There are two roadside pulloffs at the falls, but be especially watchful: this is a very curvy road and locals, who know it well, drive it faster than they probably should.
Jefferson said, ``. . . it falls over a rock 200 feet into the valley below. The sheet of water is broken in its breadth by the rock in two of three places, but not all in its height.'' Jefferson said you can ``walk across dry'' between the sheet of water and the cliff face at the bottom (which I have never been able to do without getting quite wet), and he pointed out that the drop, though not the volume nor width, is greater than Niagara Falls.
Also worth a visit: Continue south on U.S. 220 to Covington, then go west on I-64 about 10 miles to exit 4 and follow signs to the Humpback Bridge. It is one of only seven covered bridges in Virginia and in my opinion the most interesting and photogenic. It's only about a half mile off the interstate.
Also in the area: About a half hour west of Hot Springs is Lake Moomaw Recreation Area; about a half hour southeast is Douthat State Park, one of the originals in the Virginia system. MOUNTAIN LAKE RESORT
Mountain Lake, 3,934 feet above sea level, is one of only two natural freshwater lakes in Virginia (the other being Lake Drummond in southeastern Virginia's Great Dismal Swamp).
It was formed - nobody knows how long ago - when a rockslide dammed the north end of a little valley and debris of organic matter filled around the rocks to form a watertight seal. The lake, 0.4 miles wide, 0.7 miles long and as much as 100 feet deep at its dammed-up end, is fed by underwater springs and its temperature rarely rises above 72 degrees.
It was first mentioned in the notes of surveyor Christopher Gist in 1751. Early on it was referred to on maps as Salt Pond. In fact, no natural salt deposits have ever been found in the vicinity. Its water is clean and free of minerals.
In the early 1850s, Gen. Herman Haupt of Pennsylvania built a hotel to accommodate travelers on their way from Christiansburg to what is now West Virginia. Since the Haupts charged a small fee for these services, Giles County required them to buy a hotel license. So they decided to give the place a proper and attractive name.
They changed the name to Mountain Lake, and the Mountain Lake Resort was born. In later years, guests would arrive by train at the whistle-stop communities of Pembroke or Eggleston and were met by three-seat hacks. Four horses were required to pull the carriages up the steep mountain grade.
About the turn of the century regular guests were allowed to build cottages for themselves around the hotel. Those who built these summer homes here to escape the heat and humidity were given a 15-year lease, after which time the cottages reverted to hotel ownership.
The rustic log cottages, 13 of them still standing, carry names given to them by their builders many years ago: Norfolk, Richmond, Roanoke, Carolina, Southside, West Virginia, Florida, Virginia among them.
The present hotel, a massive native stone structure with a commanding view of the lake, was built in 1936 to replace the original wooden building.
Maybe you've seen it and didn't even know it. Did you see the 1987 hit movie ``Dirty Dancing'' starring Patrick Swayze and Jennifer Grey?
The 2,600-acre property was the ``on-location'' stand-in for some imaginary Catskills resort where the story is set. The lakeside Virginia Cottage was where some of the more torrid scenes were filmed.
This is a casual resort, significantly less pricey than The Homestead, that caters to families - many tend to return year after year, often for reunions - and not a few honeymooners.
Hotel guest information suggests ``neat dress'' for dinner. Several men on the Sunday evening I was there apparently took this to mean their best T-shirt, the one with sleeves. One young yahoo kept his baseball cap on during dinner. (Note to parents: If you don't knock these things off their heads when they are young, then will never learn.)
The main hotel building contains 50 rooms and large dining room, a cozy parlor-lobby and a library and TV room. The dining room is nice and the food is good.
Norfolk is one of the cottages that has recently been renovated. It is a duplex, each side containing a king-size bed, sofa, wing chair, writing table and dresser with ceiling fan and fireplace and a stock of wood. The bath has a large jacuzzi and shower. The porch, overlooking the tennis court and lake, has rockers for serious loafing.
The resort property today is part of the Wilderness Conservancy. There are programs of bird watching, geology, flora and fauna, and outdoor photography.
In the immediate area: Cascade Falls Recreation Area, great for scenic hiking, is just a few miles to the west. About an hour away to the west, via U.S. 460, at Pocahontas, near Bluefield, is the Pocahontas Exhibition Coal Mine (see story, Page Ex), a unique museum worth the drive.
For other excursions, look for the several Virginia scenic byways in the area (call Virginia tourism, 800-932-5827, for a map).
One of the best is Va. 42, which leads northeast off U.S. 460 from nearby Newport to New Castle. There you must make a decision: (1) to the left on Va. 311 and Va. 159 to I-64 west of Covington, (2) to the right on Va. 311 to I-81 near Roanoke and Salem, or (3) straight ahead on Va. 615 for about 20 miles to a T intersection and another decision. You can go left on Va. 621 and Va. 616 to I-64 west of Clifton Forge, or right on a continuation of Va. 615 to Eagle Rock, then follow Va. 43 along the upper reaches of the James River to I-81 near Buchanan.
There are no wrong decisions here. Each segment is a beautiful drive through national forests and small communities.
Enjoy. ILLUSTRATION: STEPHEN HARRIMAN COLOR PHOTOS
The Homestead at Hot Springs is the grande dame of Virginia's
mountain resorts, having served affluent travelers since 1766.
Mountain Lake Resort near Blacksburg includes the lakeside Virginia
Cottage, above, where scenes for the movie ``Dirty Dancing'' were
filmed.
Map
JOHN EARLE/The Virginian-Pilot
Graphics
FALL FOLIAGE HOTLINES:
For the Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park (a barometer
for all higher-elevation areas in Virginia) - (540) 999-3500 for a
pre-recorded message.
For the Blue Ridge Parkway - (704) 298-0398 for a pre-recorded
message.
For Virginia travel information - (800) 932-5827. Ask for a
scenic byways map.
TRAVELER'S ADVISORY
MOUNTAIN LAKE RESORT
Getting there: From South Hampton roads take I-64 west to
Staunton, then I-81 south to Christiansburg exit 118. Follow U.S.
460 west, taking 460 bypass around Blacksburg to Va. 700. Follow 700
for seven miles to the resort. It's about a seven-hour drive.
On the way: Hungry? Take a break in Staunton at eat at Mrs.
Rowe's Family Restaurant and Bakery (see story, Flavor Section).
Lodging rates (including dinner and breakfast): In July, August
and October, hotel rooms begin at $125 (weekdays) and $165
(weekends) for two; $155 and $195 in Chestnut Lodge and rustic
cottages; $205 and 245 for cottage suites. Rates are slightly lower
in May, June and September. Children 4 and under are free, 5-11 $15
extra per day, 12 and older $25 extra per day.
Dress: Informal.
Activities/facilities: Rowboats, canoes and pedal boats; fishing
(furnish your own equipment); swimming; hiking along marked trails
ranging from 0.3 to 2.8 miles; spa; lawn games; indoor recreation
including billiards, ping pong, shuffleboard and video games;
television room. Fly fishing lessons are available by appointment
for a fee.
Mountain Lake reservations and info: (800) 346-3334.
THE HOMESTEAD
Getting there: From South Hampton roads take I-64 west to
Staunton, then I-81 and I-64 south to Lexington exits 188 and 56 for
I-64 west. After one mile on I-64, take exit 55 for Va. 39. Follow
Va. 39 (one of Virginia's most scenic byways for the first 20 miles
along the Maury River) through Goshen and Milboro Springs to Warm
Springs. There, take U.S. 220 south five miles to Hot Springs. It's
about a six-hour drive.
Alternate route: Stay on I-64 west at Lexington until exit 16 for
Covington. Follow U.S. 220 north to Hot Springs.
On the way: Hungry? Take a break in Staunton at eat at Mrs.
Rowe's Family Restaurant and Bakery (see story, Flavor Section).
Homestead packages: Choose from . . .
Social Package (Modified American Plan, including dinner and
breakfast) or room only). Prices vary by season and accommodation,
but expect to pay about $150-200 per person, double, for a room,
considerably more for a suite. If you're paying separately for
meals, dinner runs about $50 per person, breakfast about $18.50. A
15 percent service charge is added to all rates.
Other packages include Golf (at Cascades or Homestead and Lower
Cascades), Total Tennis, Shooting and Honeymoon/Anniversary.
Activities/facilities: Complete spa facilities plus the historic
men's and women's pools at nearby Warm Springs (April-October),
indoor swimming, bowling alley, lawn bowling, croquet, indoor game
room, movie theater and in-room VCR, horse riding, carriage rides,
hiking, trout fishing (March-December), skiing and ice skating
(December-March); organized KidsClub activities for children 3-11.
Dress: Casual ``resort attire'' is expected during the day (that
apparently means almost anything short of jeans or swim wear in the
Great Hall). In the evening men are expected to wear a jacket and
tie in the main dining room, a jacket elsewhere.
The Homestead reservations and info: (800) 838-1766. by CNB