THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, September 29, 1996 TAG: 9610020836
SECTION: CAROLINA COAST PAGE: 10 EDITION: FINAL
TYPE: RESTAURANT REVIEW
SOURCE: BY LANE DEGREGORY, STAFF WRITER
DATELINE: COROLLA LENGTH: 116 lines
Cloistered in a Corolla shopping complex, tucked between handmade hammocks and duck decoys, one of the Outer Banks' outstanding eateries allows diners to enjoy an array of enticing entrees in an atmosphere of understated elegance.
Groupers Grille and Wine Bar opened in May at TimBuck II on N.C. 12. Its view of covered walkways around the retail center isn't really worth a second glance. But the food is fantastic. The ambiance is intimate. And the overall experience is well worth a 35-minute drive from Nags Head.
Although the restaurant isn't large, an open, arching ceiling supported by criss-crossed wooden beams gives Groupers a spacious appearance. Fans spin slowly above the rafters. And wooden wine racks filled with colorful bottles line the walls.
Tom Franco, one of the establishment's owners, also operates Cafe Alpine in Breckenridge, Colo. It has won a host of Wine Spectator Awards. He and co-owner Tommy Karole have taken care to outfit their Outer Banks restaurant with an elaborate selection as well. More than 150 types of wine, champagne and reserve-stock vintages are available by the bottle. More than 20 wines also are served by the glass. When friends and I dined at Groupers last week, our waitress willingly offered suggestions for selections to please our palates and fit our individual food choices: Buena Vista Sauvignon Blanc ($4.95 per glass) and Beautour Merlot ($6.50 per glass).
Light jazz filtered through the restaurant, where butter-colored linen napkins and tablecloths provided a muted backdrop in the low light. Our meal began with a braided basket of breads: flat pita pieces, a homemade Italian loaf and a pile of gourmet crackers. A ramekin of sun-dried tomato flavored Boursin cheese spread served as a flavorful topping.
Appetizers at Groupers are as large as luncheon entrees. We selected an Outer Banks favorite: crab cakes ($8.95) and an unusual sushi dish, Seared Tuna Loin Sashimi ($6.95). The two crab cakes contained mounds of hand-picked meat blended with red and yellow bell pepper pieces, scallions and a pinch of garlic. An indiscernible amount of breading held the shellfish together. And pan-searing left the outsides light and crunchy.
The sashimi was surprisingly delicious. I'm not a big sushi fan. I don't favor the idea of raw fish. But when urged to try just a taste, I acquiesced - and was glad I did. The two credit-card size slices of just-off-the-boat yellowfin tuna had been blackened and seared on one side, so they weren't quite raw. The other side, however, was pink and uncooked - more flavorful than fishy. A dollop of wasabi aioli sauce, the milder version of mouth-melting hot green mustard, muted the seafood without stifling the marvelous taste. Sides of Japanese cucumber relish over Israeli cous-cous and curly, slightly salty soba noodles completed the artistic and interesting appetizer.
For entrees, I ordered the seafood puff pastry ($18.95) and a friend tried the evening special: flounder ($14.95).
My dish was one of the most delightful I've ever tried. Three enormous shrimp, perfectly steamed with their tails still on, and at least eight silver dollar-sized scallops were arranged around two airy pastry shells and sprinkled with a scrumptuous sauce.
After making a stock of sauteed shrimp shells, sliced onions, fennel, carrots, celery, tarragon, rosemary, thyme, parsley and other spices, Chef Bret Rogers said he adds sherry and a touch of cream.
The resulting sauce is smooth and velvety - the lightest cream sauce I've ever tasted. The flavor, however, is bountiful. A fistful of French green beans and a mound of chive-laced mashed potatoes were served in the center of this mouth-watering meal.
The flounder, Rogers said, was caught ``just east of this restaurant, off Corolla's coast.'' The special contained seven ounces of the flat fish - served in four yellow corn meal-encrusted fillets. A roasted red pepper puree proved a mild sauce for the white fish. Spicier Spanish rice and homemade guacamole offered a little more kick on the side. ``It's a great combination of tastes,'' declared my friend. ``Yet none overpowers any other. You can discern each individual flavor.''
Because we didn't finish dinner until about 9:45 p.m., our waitress said we were too late for dessert. The kitchen had closed. But after reminding her that we'd asked about an 8:30 reservation, she relinquished and showed us the stock of sweets. ``You're lucky you called ahead,'' she said. After seeing the dessert selection, we agreed.
Each dessert provided plenty for two people. And Groupers serves a mean cappuccino with thick foam and cinnamon ($3.25). We ordered chocolate chiffon cake ($6.25) and a hazelnut cookie sandwich ($5.75). The round, bundt-like cake was light and spongy, drenched in marshmallow chantilly whipped cream with a few dabs of mint sauce and chunks of toffee on the side. Like the entrees, its presentation was as pleasing as its taste. The plate was sprinkled with cocoa, the whipped cream topped with a sprig of fresh mint.
An unusual offering, the soft hazelnut cookie sandwich was sliced into three wedges. The cookies cradled generous scoops of espresso chip ice cream - made that day at the restaurant. Friends who ordered that dessert enjoyed it so much they didn't even offer me any. MEMO: Dining profiles are based on a single, unannounced visit by
writers. Restaurant managers are often contacted later for more
information. The Coast pays for the meal. ILLUSTRATION: Staff color photo by DREW C. WILSON
The people creating the magic at Groupers Grille and Wine Bar are,
left to right, Executive Chef Bret Rogers, owner Tommy Karole and
pastry chef Melissa Watson.
Graphic
GROUPERS GRILLE & WINE BAR
Where: TimBuck II Shopping Center, Corolla, west side of N.C. 12
Phone: 453-4077
Features: Seafood, chicken, steak and vegetarian dishes
Prices: Dinner entrees range from $11.95 to $19.95
Hours: Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; dinner from 5
to 10 p.m.
Drinks: More than 150 bottles of wine, plus 20 types by the
glass, beer, soda, coffee
Payment: VISA, MasterCard, American Express, Discover
Reservations: Recommended
Smoking: Not allowed in restaurant
Handicapped accessible: Yes, ramp from parking lot to deck
outside door, single-story inside, handicapped restroom outside of
restaurant - in shopping center - nearby.
KEYWORDS: DINING REVIEW by CNB