THE VIRGINIAN-PILOT
Copyright (c) 1996, Landmark Communications, Inc.
DATE: Sunday, October 27, 1996 TAG: 9610290498
SECTION: FLAVOR PAGE: F1 EDITION: FINAL
SOURCE: BY M.F. ONDERDONK, WINE & SPIRITS CRITIC
LENGTH: 106 lines
IN THE FALL, a beer lover's fancy turns to thoughts of - well, beer.
Sniffing an autumnal niche, America's micro-breweries have cooked up vats of season-specific brewskies bearing hallmarks of harvest time. A recent, sampling of some available brands reveals that, apropos of its origins, Oktoberfest is a name that the Germans not only invented but probably should have trademarked.
Yes, tempting as it may be to serve Pete's Wicked Oktoberfest or Dixie Blackened Voodoo lager at the Halloween party, Beck's Octoberfest bests both, and more, by a Teutonic mile. It's crisp and lively with an aggressive taste of malt, mouth-filling complexity and smoky aftertaste. But, then, Beck's has had 480 years or so to get things right.
From this side of the Atlantic come Oktoberfest beers by Samuel Adams (Boston) and Pete's Wicked (California). Both are a beautiful shade of russet - slightly darker than Beck's. The Adams is heavier and not as crisp as the Beck's, with a slightly cloying finish. Pete's Wicked rates slightly better than its East Coast counterpart, though not so highly as its German rival. It's nutty, a little heavy, but with a light, clean finish.
Of course, Dixie's Blackened Voodoo simply must be invoked, uncapped and swallowed at the witching time of the year. This is a very dark beer. But then it would be, wouldn't it? Billed as a lager, it's closer in style to a stout or a black and tan and is full-flavored with a smoky aftertaste. One bottle (like, presumably any voodoo brew) goes a long way. The brew's evil fraternal twin is Crimson Voodoo, made in the popular style of red beers.
As to Blue Moon's Harvest Pumpkin, a sip will do, three at the max. A novelty beer with distinct color, aromas and flavors of pumpkin pie, it initially impresses with earthy tones and a light, refreshing taste. But nutmeg, never widely known as the pet flavor of beer enthusiasts, soon overwhelms. Good with dessert, perhaps?
As for designated Draculas - oops, make that drivers - there's Dead Red Unwine? Not pretty to imagine the late Jerry Garcia's altered state were he to somehow learn of this new alcohol-free marketing ploy for the once-great Grateful Dead (now, like Jerry himself, departed). But, hey, out-of-work bassists and drummers have got to eat. And drink. And Dead Red does allow guilt-free cork-popping at breakfast.
A tasting of Dead Red yielded the following notes: Beautiful ruby color (apropos of blood, dead things, etc.) Distinct aromas of sawdust and Duncan Hines yellow cake mix batter. Excellent grape juice; no further resemblance to wine.
Deadheads with time and offspring on their hands might consider this as a novelty dinner beverage for the little ones, to be served in stemmed glasses for enhanced spill-drama. It's produced by Celebrity Cellars, who extend no info on varietal type.
In concert with various retrospective CDs, Dead Red Unwine is being released in a series of collector's edition bottles, to play in supermarkets, record stores and specialty shops. ILLUSTRATION: MIKE HEFFNER/The Virginian-Pilot
Beers help lend taste and color to the hues of autumn.
Graphic
Wine Classic Nov. 1-2 will feature auction
Beyond the populist excesses of All Hallow's Eve await the
pleasures of the Chesapeake Bay Wine Classic scheduled Nov. 1-2.
The Classic wine auction will be held, as in the past, on Saturday
afternoon at Bayville Farms. New is a gala Friday dinner at the
Chrysler Museum.
Composed of six courses, each by a different chef, the dinner
will showcase wines from France, California and Virginia.
Star of the evening is Michael Chipchase, executive chef for the
Robert Mondavi Winery, who will pair his first course to his
employer's reserve wines.
Other well-known names on the menu include John Zinitz of Town
Point Club, Chuck Sass of Mahi Mah's, Cory Beisel of Five 0 1 City
Grill (who, with partner Mike Atkinson, is coordinating the dinner),
the Dumbwaiter's Sydney Meers, and Marcel Desaulniers of the
Trellis, represented by pasty chef Kelly Serocynski. Cost is a heady
$200 per person and, at press time, a few places are still
available.
As to other Classic events, the Sunday Grand Tasting, which in
the past topped the wine weekend, has been moved to Feb. 2 - the
better for West Coast winegrowers, presently consumed by autumn
harvest cares, to attend. And they will - representatives of about
200 wineries, from California's Chalone to South Africa's Springbok,
have been invited.
Keynote speaker will be David Rosengarten, co-author of ``Red
Wine With Fish'' and a frequent contributor to Gourmet Magazine and
Wine Spectator.
A schedule of tastings and seminars will also include a
cigar-puffing interlude and a talk by Jan Schrem of Clos Pegase.
Last spring, Schrem delighted listeners at the Virginia Beach Center
for the Arts with his lecture and slide show on ``Wine Seen Through
4,000 Years of Art.''
Meanwhile, contributions of fine and rare wine, both from
wineries and private cellars, have been pouring in for Saturday's
auction.
Proceeds will again benefit WHRO/WHRV public radio and television
and will also be used to establish a new scholarship fund for the
study of wine and food.
With the event oversold since the summer, don't plan to show up
without tickets. However, phone bids will be accepted. Auction items
include a double magnum of 1978 Lafite-Rothschild, a magnum of 1991
Dominus and a weekend at the Homestead.
For tickets to the Friday night dinner, a catalog or more
information, call 889-9449. by CNB