DATE: Sunday, March 2, 1997                 TAG: 9702280056

SECTION: DAILY BREAK             PAGE: E1   EDITION: FINAL 

SOURCE: BY LAURA LEE TRAVEL, CORRESPONDENT 

                                            LENGTH:  184 lines

HISTORIC MOUNTAIN TOWN IS THE HEIGHT OF MEXICAN BEAUTY AND CHARM.

WE ARE WALKING by sepia-tinted 17th century mansions on curving cobblestone streets as we enjoy the crisp, mountain air and warm sunlight. People of all ages have gathered in the laurel-shaded town square. We stop for a moment in a 300-year-old courtyard, now an award-winning restaurant nestled in a garden filled with bougainvillea and hundreds of songbirds in swinging white cages.

If this is not your idea of Mexico, as well, then perhaps a trip to San Miguel de Allende is in order. Your opinion of our neighbor - whether you've already been south of the border or not - will never be the same.

A colonial town in the highlands of central Mexico, 3 1/2 hours by car north of Mexico City, San Miguel is as accessible from Hampton Roads as other well-known Mexican destinations. Perhaps no place in Mexico, however, has retained the charm and beauty of this historic mountain village. Best of all, San Miguel de Allende remains yet to be discovered by most travelers to Mexico. Make sure you get there soon.

Designated a national monument in 1926, San Miguel de Allende is legally frozen in time. It has none of the attractions that typically remind us of a Mexican vacation, or a modern city.

There is no neon. No traffic lights. No beaches, no fishing, no high-diving. There are no fast-food joints or modern buildings in this town of 50,000. You won't find Aztec pyramids or truly important architecture, either.

You will discover, however, a remarkably well-preserved, unspoiled, colonial town, rich in Mexican independence history - and free of pollution. This art colony is said by locals to by ``among the angels.'' Indeed, walking around San Miguel is heavenly.

Although taxis are readily available, walking is the primary mode of transportation in San Miguel. Note, however, that San Miguel's cobblestone streets are more than ``cobbled.'' These are not the meek cobblestones of Williamsburg. We're talking grapefruit here. The slate sidewalks - when there are sidewalks - are a rather slick alternative.

That said, what you'll find while you're exploring will more than make up for the inconvenience of the ``gringo traps.''

Mexican travel books, if they mention San Miguel at all, will guide you to historic and cultural landmarks. They might not mention, however, San Miguel's most enduring feature: its doors. San Miguel boasts multitudes of restored houses featuring enormous entrances. Many are the former casas of historic patriots, such as Allende himself, the father of the movement toward Mexico's independence from Spain.

But it's not what you might expect. Alleylike paths of stone, brick and slate are all you'll see at first glance. The beauty of San Miguel de Allende hides behind - not in front of - its intricately carved wooden doors and massive wrought-iron gates.

The most memorable souvenir from our trip is the near permanent outline on my cheek of all the keyholes into which I peeked. Each door in town opens to a hidden bounty: a courtyard filled with sienna walls teaming with lush vines, flowers and exotic pottery; ancient brick paths lined with poinsettias and pink geraniums; and garden peppers with hundreds of dangling tin stars.

If you're lucky, you'll also peek into the 12-foot door on Hospico near the luxury hotel Casa de Sierra Nevada. There you'll see a life-size wooden horse staring right back at you through the keyhole. Just watch out for exciting inhabitants.

In the mornings around 10 when the town wakes up to open its cafes, boutiques and businesses, shopkeepers diligently sweep the areas in front of their doors. The night's dirt is washed from windows, and even the smallest of litter is swept away. San Miguel is handsomely clean, in spite of all the dust between the cobblestones.

Perhaps it is this fastidious pride of the townspeople that first attracted Americans to this treasure in the Mexican colonial highlands. Over 3,000 American expatriates (mainly students, artists and retirees) make San Miguel their permanent home. They proudly claim that people retire to Florida ``to die'' but they came to San Miguel ``to live.''

The interest began after World War II when American ex-servicemen began arriving with their GI Bill dollars to study at the Instituto Allende, founded in the late 1930s. Now, one of the largest English-language fine arts schools in Latin America, the Institute still attracts foreign students to its accredited art and language courses.

In fact, even if you're not interested in attending classes there, the Institute is a must-see. This former hacienda of a prominent 18th century family sports lush gardens, a great view of the town and a small art museum.

But while strong American and Canadian communities exist in San Miguel, it is not overrun by foreigners. They blend right in, adding to the appeal of the town.

In fact, many American artists have helped to develop some of the town's best art galleries and workshops. For example, Robert de Gast, a Virginia resident, author of ``The Lighthouses of the Chesapeake'' and ``Western Wind, Eastern Shore,'' recently left Virginia for San Miguel, and now runs a photography school here.

Additionally, the American volunteers who run San Miguel's public library, La Biblioteca Publica, Latin American's largest bilingual library, take special pride in hosting one of the best events in town.

If you only do one thing while you're in San Miguel do this:

Each Sunday, for about $10 (which goes to support local youth education), you can meet with other visitors in the courtyard of the library at noon and depart on a 2 1/2 hour house and garden tour. More than 300 houses are rotated on the tour, three or four each weekend.

With about 120 other tourists (mainly from Texas and California - we wore name tags identifying our names and hometowns), I visited an American-owned house packed with folk art and meticulous architecture; a modern Mexican house exploding with color and equipped with not one but three Catholic altars; and a 17th century hacienda complete with a 750-acre working farm, which, typical of many of the homes on tour, is for sale (for 1.5 million American dollars at the going exchange rate).

Fortunately, most of the shopping in San Miguel de Allende offers more reasonable prices. Many visitors, including numerous Mexican retailers, come to San Miguel just to shop. A perfect combination of a dollar-friendly exchange rate and hundreds of talented artists makes San Miguel a shopper's paradise.

Indeed, artists have been flocking here for centuries. The first settlers in the village (founded in 1542 by a Franciscan friar, Juan de San Miguel) practiced weaving.

Two centuries later, Spanish conquerors came to live in San Miguel. Wealthy from the profits of nearby silver mines, they built the now-restored mansions that house numerous galleries and workshops. Silver is still king here, and the prices are extremely reasonable.

Many stores, like Casa del Inquisidor, are perhaps as interesting as their wares. The pear trees and fountains inside Casa Vieja pleasantly distract from its large selection of local pottery, glass and metal work.

Shoppers searching for unique housewares will be richly rewarded. San Miguel is home to such unique treats as hammered tin accessories and lamps, and wrought-iron furniture and chandeliers, all locally made. Handmade hinges, drawer pulls, curtain rods and exquisite brass sinks are also readily available. Try Casa Cohen for unbeatable quality. Talavera pottery and tiles abound; the factory is a short excursion out of town.

Previous visitors might recommend the ``best'' stores in town, but you'll enjoy exploring the neighborhoods for your own favorites. Most stores take American dollars, but not always at the best exchange rate. Major establishments accept credit cards, but oddly, some shipping companies do not. Bring cash and your checkbook as well as your plastic.

Shopping comes to a halt during siesta, usually 2 to 4 p.m. That's a great time, however, to savor one of San Miguel's 170 restaurants; many have been internationally recognized for their food and service.

Don't expect Tex-Mex tacos and fajitas. Traditional Mexican food, such as the spicy chocolate mole, is typical of what you'll find in San Miguel. Prices vary wildly depending on the restaurant and don't necessarily reflect quality.

Late one night after a pleasant evening at the classical music festival (one of numerous festivals in San Miguel), we enjoyed a locals-only-style meal at Postada San Francisco. For four main courses with beans, rice, two superb hair-raising salsas, four beers and a generous tip, we paid 119 pesos - about $15.

Equally impressive were two whole rotisserie-cooked chickens with bread and jalapenos that we bought for less than $7 at Don Pollo located across from the Institute Allende.

For our last night, we were spoiled by the lush tropical surroundings and interesting food of Bugambilia, whose quality, in my opinion, has recently surpassed Casa de Sierra Nevada's as ``the best in town.''

Be creative and explore the budget restaurants even if you can afford not to, but avoid the street vendors and the proverbial water just to be sure. You won't want to miss a moment of this intimate town.

After siesta, there are many other choices of what to explore. As expected for an area awash with talent, there's plenty to do here. With San Miguel's infamous pink, neo-gothic church, La Parroquia, as a central landmark, it's hard to get lost. Plays, lectures, art classes and concerts are frequent. Tennis, golf, swimming and horseback riding are also available for reasonable fees.

We chose to shop in the mornings and explore in the afternoons, free of bags. On Christmas Day, we set off straight up the hill to El Mirador, the lookout. From there we could see San Miguel surrounded by the vast manila plateau and fertile foothills. The town below shimmers with life in the midst of this vast, cactus-covered, mountain range. Rainy season June through September translates to a storm a day, nothing that would put a halt to your fun. Peak tourist seasons coincide with major art and music festivals, and holidays such as Christmas.

Dress is very casual. Think Key West, not West Palm, but avoid shorts. A statesman recently declared the wearing of shorts by local youngsters one of the town's biggest concerns. Visiting San Miguel de Allende is truly a refreshing step back to a more gentle time. But if you're into the modern cigar-smoking craze, enjoy your Havanas. They're three bucks in San Miguel. Not that I noticed. I was too busy looking through keyholes.

MEMO: Laura Lee is a former U.S. Navy officer with a master's degree in

writing who works for the United Way. She lives in Chesapeake. ILLUSTRATION: Color photos by LAURA LEE

San Miguel de Allende...

Photos by LAURA LEE

The neo-gothic church La Parroquia is a central landmark of San

Miguel de Allende.

This vendor has a sunny spot on a San Miguel street.

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