
DATE: Sunday, August 3, 1997                TAG: 9708050314

SECTION: FLAVOR                  PAGE: F1   EDITION: FINAL 
COLUMN: MORSELS

                                            LENGTH:   92 lines

A TASTE OF FRANCE IN VIRGINIA FOOTHILLS WINERY TOUR AND ELEGANT RESTAURANT MAKE PRINCE MICHEL WORTH A VISIT

THE TABLES are dressed in peach, teal and ivory linen. The walls are adorned with vineyard scenes. An herb garden surrounds a patio just outside the French doors. A member of the waitstaff and my lunch companion converse amicably, in French.

No, we're not in Paris.

We're in Leon.

Virginia.

A little place north of Charlottesville on U.S. 29 that doesn't even rate a dot on most maps. Let's just say Leon is between Madison and Culpeper and leave it at that.

For where you are is not as important as what you are doing and in this case, we're eating. Or getting ready to. First, one must decide whether or not to have champagne before lunch.

They start with such offerings at the Prince Michel restaurant - the restaurant attached to the winery, surrounded by the grapevines in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

This is a very Continental restaurant, out of place in the western reaches of the commonwealth. Even the menu is printed in French. Fortunately, it has subtitles. ``St. Jacques et grosses crevettes en coquille (Scallops and jumbo Shrimp in a shell),'' ``Filet de Saumon grille sauce ciboulette (Grilled Filet of Salmon with chive butter sauce),'' ``Medaillon de Veau aux morilles (Medallion of Veal with morel mushrooms).'' Compared to deciding on just one entree, the champagne question is a no-brainer.

But dining on melon and prosciutto, the special app for the day, is only one of the ways to spend your time at Prince Michel.

Before you meander down the hill to the restaurant, you can wander through the vineyard museum looking at antique winemaking equipment such as grape stemmers and presses. Pay particular attention here - you'll need it later.

Out front there are a few of those giant wooden vats once used to hold the grapes when they were stomped. If you thought such scene only happened in ``I Love Lucy'' reruns, check out the walls inside. There are photographs of similar vats in use.

A door at the end of the museum leads to a self-guided tour of the winery. The presses and vats are much larger these days, and cleaner. Stainless steel, to be exact. But the principles of winemaking have remained the same over the years.

Barrel-making has remained the same too. As you go over the barrel room on a catwalk, you'll notice barrel after barrel stacked in neat rows, 15 feet high. Some hold white wine, the others red. You can tell the difference by the stains on the wood.

After the tour you're led into the tasting room and gift shop, of course. If you haven't decided what to drink with your meal, now is a good time for some education and evaluation.

Speaking of education, if you're out that way - say, moving a child to an institute of higher learning - take time to stop by Prince Michel. It's a fine place to reward yourself for getting your child this far.

Besides, it's the closest you'll get to Paris without having to cross the ocean. ILLUSTRATION: COLOR PHOTOS COURTESY PRINCE MICHEL VINEYARDS

ABOVE: The Prince Michel winery and restaurant are in Leon, Va....

LEFT: ...the winery's barrel room...

Graphic

ABOUT PRINCE MICHEL

Directions: From Hampton Roads, take Interstate 64 west to

Charlottesville. Pick up U.S. 29 north and travel about 40 miles.

Prince Michel will be on your left, shortly after you pass the

turnoff for Madison.

Hours: The winery is open daily, except major holidays, from 10

a.m. to 5 p.m. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Thursday

through Saturday and for lunch only on Sunday.