DATE: Sunday, September 7, 1997             TAG: 9709060125

SECTION: HOME & GARDEN           PAGE: G3   EDITION: FINAL 

COLUMN: GARDENING 

SOURCE: BY ROBERT STIFFLER, GARDENING COLUMNIST 
                                            LENGTH:  134 lines

TRADITIONAL HARDWARE STORES OFTEN STOCK UNUSUAL PRODUCTS

On several occasions, you have recommended products to readers, not knowing where or if they may still be found. Two of these were for Dr. T's Snake-Away and Mole-Med. Both are stock items in our store. We are an old-fashioned hardware store and have been in business since 1945. We are told daily by customers that we have items they cannot find in the new ``big box'' stores. There are not too many of us left, but you might recommend your readers try their neighborhood hardware store for the product and remedies you suggest.

Jim Creekmore, Creekmore Hardware, 1303 Bainbridge Blvd., Chesapeake

Call 545-5332

I agree with everything you say. Now I don't need to advise readers where to look for these more unusual products, because you have. With your phone number, readers can call first. I hope old-fashioned hardware stores will be around for years.

You said you'd have Whole Control and Rid-A-Critter, which I've found to be the best deterrents against moles and rabbits. Rid-A-Critter even has directions for keeping squirrels out of attics. Whenever a product is one you don't need very often, try the local hardware or feed and seed store. Most often, that's where you'll find it.

In June, you responded to a question about Bermuda grass as if it were the greatest threat to lawns since thistles. I would like this opportunity to speak in favor of Bermuda grass. Having grown up in Texas, where Bermuda grass is common, I would like to point out a few good qualities of it: It is hardy, requiring only minimum watering to stay green, which is a blessing in these days of water restrictions. It does not require ``pampered'' top soil to grow. It provides extremely good soil holding characteristics, an asset where loose sand is prevalent, like sand dunes. It appears to be the grass of choice for many golf courses for use on fairways. It ``wears'' very well to foot and wheeled traffic.

My soil in Deep Creek is sandy and ``reluctant'' to grow much of anything, including crabgrass and other weeds. Bermuda grass is slowly advancing. I have tried seeding but without success. I am about ready to try plugging, if I had a good source of plugs without making holes in my own lawn.

Can you suggest some way to accelerate growth? I am not seeking a manicured lawn, but just something green (excluding weeds) that covers from fence to fence.

Ronald G. Tidball, Chesapeake

I always admire anyone who feels so strongly they'll write a letter, especially if they're defending Bermuda grass.

I agree with what you say about Bermuda. But for people who grow fescue and don't want Bermuda, it's a real pain. The best thing that's happened to Bermuda in 100 years is Roundup, which will get rid of it in beds and other areas you don't want it. I agree that there is a place for Bermuda. It has some good qualities you so well define.

To get it to grow thicker and faster, fertilize once a month from May through August with a high-nitrogen fertilizer such as 35-5-10. Reseed this fall with unhulled Bermuda grass seed. It takes hot weather for Bermuda seed to germinate, and we had none of that until late June. If you don't see results from the seed, seed again with hulled Bermuda grass next spring. It's more expensive than the unhulled.

Don't be surprised if you're writing again in five years asking how to keep Bermuda grass from taking over the ranch.

I have enclosed a leaf from a plant. It may be a tree or perhaps a bush. My wife insisted I plant this next to my pool fence. I'm concerned about how high this thing may grow. Any advice would be appreciated.

I also planted two guava trees about 2 feet high, which my wife grew from seed she bought in Hawaii. Must I bring the plants in next fall or is there a way they can be covered for winter and left outside?

Edward Bulin, Onancock

Curator Kunso Kim at the Norfolk Botanical Garden examined the leaf you sent. It's difficult to make positive identification from one leaf. He believes it's a Buckthorn. They sometimes have spines at the end of the branchlets. If yours does have, the identification should be correct. Does it flower? The flowers would be small and white, followed by black berries. If it's a Buckthorn, it will grow to 18 feet tall.

As to your guava trees, I know of a few growing outdoors in this area, in protected spots. Onancock is colder than Virginia Beach, so my advice would be to bring them indoors in winter.

I would like information on asparagus. I've searched garden departments and never seem to find the right time to buy any. Can you give me information on where and when to purchase asparagus plants?

Marilyn McFie, Virginia Beach

Most garden centers have asparagus roots in the fall. They can be planted fall or spring but most recommendations call for fall planting. Many gardeners buy asparagus by mail. Most mail-order nurseries offer it. One of the best is Jersey Asparagus Farms, R.D. 5, Box 572, Newfield, N.J. 08344.

Modern recommendations are to plant roots in a trench 6 to 8 inches deep, after thoroughly applying 5-10-10 fertilizer. Jersey Asparagus Farms recommends lining the trench with superphosphate, available at garden centers, and putting the roots on top of the superphosphate.

Gradually fill in the trench so that at the end of the first growing season, the trench is completely filled. Fertilize again in early August with 5-10-10 and keep your asparagus thoroughly watered the first growing season.

You should be able to start cutting asparagus in the spring of the second growing season. Most asparagus beds will produce for 15 years. I'm enclosing an asparagus growing bulletin you may find useful.

I am writing in regards to a lawn problem that developed this past summer. Clover patches, to my chagrin, have popped up with a vengeance all over our front lawn. I treated my lawn in early April with a weed and feed and then followed by seeding it weeks later. It would seem that the treatment acted only as fertilizer. The clover is everywhere, far worse than I ever recall. I don't know if there is anything that can be done now without leaving large brown spots throughout the yard. How can I eliminate all these clover patches?

Sonya Hendren, Virginia Beach

Your letter is timely. I've seen more clover over Southeast Virginia than anytime in the last 25 years. Although it does make nitrogen in the soil, it does not make for beautiful lawns. And it spreads like wildfire.

``Especially troublesome with an over-watered lawn is the cropping up of water-loving weeds such as nutsedge and clover,'' says Robert Schery in his book ``Lawn Keeping.'' He adds: ``It has a lot of merit for pastures, providing nutrition for grazing animals. But in lawns, it competes and wins over grass in areas of high pH, ample rainfall and limited nitrogen. Even after killing it with herbicides, it often comes back again from dormant seed in the soil.''

Laurie Smith, horticulturist at the Hampton Roads Research Center, says you must use a weed killer that contains three herbicides, 2,4-D, Mecoprop (MCPP) and Dicamba. Brands easiest to find are Dragon Lawn Weed Killer, Fertilome Weed-Out Lawn Weed Killer, Gordon's Trimec and Super KGro Broadleaf Weed Killer. More than one application will be required. It's most effective if used in October and November.

Many lawn owners should be getting prepared to go after the clover in their lawn. MEMO: No gardening questions will be taken over the phone. Write to

Robert Stiffler, The Virginian-Pilot, 150 W. Brambleton Ave., Norfolk,

Va. 23510. Answers will be published on a space-available basis. For an

earlier reply, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope. ILLUSTRATION: Photo

W. ATLEE BURPEE CO.

Plant asparagus this fall, and you'll be able to harvest in the

second growing season.

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