DATE: Wednesday, September 10, 1997         TAG: 9709090111

SECTION: DAILY BREAK             PAGE: E3   EDITION: FINAL 

SOURCE: BY KIM WADSWORTH, CORRESPONDENT 

                                            LENGTH:   69 lines

FUR INFUSION WHETHER USED AS A FULL-LENGTH COAT OR ON A SUIT COLLAR, FUR MAKES A WELCOME RETURN TO THE STREETS THIS FALL.

Expect more than a flurry of furs this winter.

Whether it's the real thing or an imitation, fur establishes itself as a resource for everyday fashion in many of the season's fall collections. It's no longer just a luxury item.

This year, fur balances the traditional with trendier interpretations of outerwear that are less indulgent, more practical. From cutting-edge masculine tailoring to street-smart style, wardrobes will be softened by fur's tactile pleasure.

What's behind the resurgence?

Nearly every American fashion magazine - from ``W'' and Vogue, two fashion leaders, to The New York Times' fashion magazine for fall '97 - features fur as a major fashion trend in their fall issues.

Also helping fuel the trend: drops in the price of fur this year because of modest supply increases and market adjustments; development of cheaper but classier-looking fake furs, thanks to dramatic improvements in quality using microfibers; and the easing of anti-fur sentiment as a result of industry reforms.

Today, 1 in 5 women in the United States owns a fur coat, according to the Fur Information Council of America. Young women ages 35-44 buy the most fur, followed by younger women ages 24-35. More people buy fur in New York than any other city, followed closely by Chicago.

No one could say where Hampton Roads, with shorter, warmer winters, falls on the continuum. But Hugh Vaughn, president of Lowenthal Furriers in Virginia Beach, the area's largest furrier, believes fur purchases have been underestimated.

Many people who call Tidewater home come from or frequently travel to colder climes, where furs come in handy. Hampton Roads' dampness can also make the winters more uncomfortable. In the end, however, it's the fashion statement fur makes that's spurring much of furs' popularity.

This season, Vaughn said he has expanded his inventory to include more leathers and suedes, as well as wool and cashmere coats with fur trims.

``The renewed interest in fox and beaver trimmings on suits and coats last year has created a building block of interest in furs as an accent this season,'' he noted.

A full-length mink coat, one of the area's most popular choices, can start at under $2,000 and go as high as $20,000. A fox jacket can start at about $1,200.

Despite their popularity, furs are still considered a specialized fashion apparel in Hampton Roads and thus are not readily available in department stores, although some of the better department stores do sell cloth coats and suits trimmed in fur. Lowenthal and Silverman Furs, a smaller retailer in Newport News, are the area's only major furriers.

People have become more tolerant of fur in part because the American Veterinary Medical Association has established strict guidelines for fur farms to follow. The fur industry, in turn, is supporting animal welfare and the humane treatment of animals, according to The Fur Information Council of America. In addition, Americans in general disapprove of the harassing tactics used by some animal activist groups.

For those still opposed to the thought, there is always the faux look. The latest microfibers have fostered fur-like trims and coats that give the illusion of fur without the guilt - or the expense. Often fabricated in vibrant colors, fake fur offers a playful look that works well with this year's sportswear emphasis. ILLUSTRATION: [BILL TIERNAN

The Virginian-Pilot]

Fur the moment... KEYWORDS: FALL FASHION PREVIEW AUTUMN SERENADE

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